Chesnut products problems x 2

[Blister]

Hi

I have a tin of hard wax oil ( Think I got it from Richard ) used it once , went to use it yesterday , removed the lid and it has set :?

Hammered a screwdriver through the crust inside and it was still fluid ( Just ) its now like Golden syrup can it be saved or is it a bin it job ?

Second problem , Acrylic lacquer , went to use the spray and when I press the nozzle half the product goes through the jet and the rest pores out from under the nozzle . tried a different nozzle , same result :?

Not had problems like this with Chestnut products , always had good results

maybe I was having a bad day :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

 

[Paul Hannaby]

What temperature is it where the hard wax oil is being stored? I'm wondering if the wax has solidified? It might be worth trying warming it in some hot water for a while and giving it a good shake / stir to see if it does any good.

 

[Hesh]

Blister, I use a fair bit of the hard wax oil and tend to decant it into the small platic pumps ( normally sold for travel shampoo \ liquid soap from the pound shop or boots) and have not had a problem so far. Temperature wise mine is kept in a cupboard in the workshop which is unheated so maybe your right and your having a bad day.

Can't comment on the lacquer as I've only used it twice and was not happy with my attempts at a good finish so it's been relagated to the back of the cupboard.

Steve

 

[duncanh]

I had the same problem with their hard wax and had to bin it. It was stored in the kitchen so is unlikely to be temperature related. I've gone back to using their standard finishing oil.
I've also had the same problem as you with lacquer but I think it was gloss. Couldn't solve it in the end and I now use Tetrosyl Trade Spray either bought on Ebay or from Martin Pidgeon

 

[Terry Smart]

Hmm... not a good day as you say!

Most oils suffer from this condition; they react with the air in the can and will start to 'set'. Our standard Finishing Oil will do the same and so will Tung Oil, although the latter is much slower. The solution is to either use it quicker (lol) or as quoted decant into smaller cans/jars with a minimal air gap. Sadly there is no way of stopping this from happening and all brands suffer from this due to the nature of the raw materials.
The oils can usually be thinned using white spirit to bring them back to a more user-friendly consistency, unless of course they have gone too far.

It sounds as though the problem with the aerosol is that the tube that the nozzle pushes into is cracked. It's not common but it does happen, usually during the manufacturing/filling process. There is of course no way for us to know about this short of spraying each can, which is both unfeasible and would also mean that each can is slightly short on contents!

If you'd like to contact me direct Blister (pm or email) I'll sort out some replacements for you.

 

[Blister]

Thanks Terry / Chestnut Products

for offering to replace these 2 items , I will try and re package the HWO into smaller bottles I can expel the air from

PM sent :mrgreen:

 

[Blister]

What temperature is it where the hard wax oil is being stored? I'm wondering if the wax has solidified? It might be worth trying warming it in some hot water for a while and giving it a good shake / stir to see if it does any good.

Hi Paul

I store this in my workshop , heated when in use , not heated when out of use

Thanks

 

[Blister]

Blister, I use a fair bit of the hard wax oil and tend to decant it into the small platic pumps ( normally sold for travel shampoo \ liquid soap from the pound shop or boots) and have not had a problem so far. Temperature wise mine is kept in a cupboard in the workshop which is unheated so maybe your right and your having a bad day.

Can't comment on the lacquer as I've only used it twice and was not happy with my attempts at a good finish so it's been relagated to the back of the cupboard.

Steve

Thanks Steve , looks like a visit to the pound shop

I love asking " How much is this " :lol: :lol:

 

[CHJ]

Just checked mine after seeing this thread, no sign of problems, but there is little air gap in the top of the can.

I use marbles or clean pebbles to fill containers as I use the product so that any air gap is kept small.
They also help stir up any sediment/settlement before use.

 

[Blister]

Just checked mine after seeing this thread, no sign of problems, but there is little air gap in the top of the can.

I use marbles or clean pebbles to fill containers as I use the product so that any air gap is kept small.
They also help stir up any sediment/settlement before use.

Now thats a very good idea 8) :mrgreen:

I too will be doing the same

thanks chas

 

[Jonzjob]

I had exactly the same problem and I phoned Terry direct and he gave me the same instructions as above and I'm glad to say that after decanting to a smaller container and adding a little bit of white spirit all looks well. The only difference is it takes a little longer to 'go off' on the wood. To harden I suppose is another way of saying it?

Thank you Terry. It's good to put a voice to a name :mrgreen:

 

[RogerP]

Many years ago when I did a lot of photographic darkroom work I used concertina bottles which are adjustable to fit the amount of liquid leaving the smallest air gap possible.

 

[Hesh]

Blister, the pound shop get's better...............not only is it a pound (funny that :roll: ) but I seem to remember it was four in a pack with at least one pump - maybe two) I've been using them for a good while and apart from having to clean the pump nozzle every now and again have had no problems at all. All of my oils are stored this way as I was getting fed up with binning half tins which I suppose is one of the downsides of being an occasional turner.

Regards

Steve

 

[Bill Mooney]

I always store my finish tins upside down so there is no air space at the pouring end. Any skin which forms is at the other end so when I use my finish it pours out the tin without a problem. It's easy to make a base with holes in to take the neck of the tins so they stand ok.

 

[Blister]

I always store my finish tins upside down so there is no air space at the pouring end. Any skin which forms is at the other end so when I use my finish it pours out the tin without a problem. It's easy to make a base with holes in to take the neck of the tins so they stand ok.

Another good idea , Thanks Bill :mrgreen:

 

[mike s]

question for the experts, roughly how long does it take for the air in the can to form a skin on the top of the products such as wipe on laquer?

I always store my finish tins upside down so there is no air space at the pouring end. Any skin which forms is at the other end so when I use my finish it pours out the tin without a problem. It's easy to make a base with holes in to take the neck of the tins so they stand ok.

now that is a very good idea
thanks

 

[duncanh]

A product called Bloxygen has been discussed a few times on WOW. It's a can of compressed argon gas which you spray into the top of a tin of finish before putting the lid on. Because it's heavier than oxygen or nitrogen it will sit over the surface of any finish left in the tin, preventing the air getting to it and making it go off, forming a skin.
No idea if you can get it or anything similar in the UK.

I think the ideal solution is to make more items so you use the finish up before it has a chance to go off

 

[Blister]

A big THANKYOU

my 2 replacement items have arrived =D>

Good customer service 8)

 

[Geoffrey]

This is what i like about this Forum Brilliant ideas and people willing to share.
just off to the pound shop.

Geoff

 

[tekno.mage]

Oh err....

Having read this thread I went to check my own 3/4 full tin of Chestnut Hardwax Oil. Gave it a shake and no "glub glub" sound :-(Large pliers were needed to remove the lid as usual) After breaking through a thin rigid seal of hardened contents across the neck I discovered my oil was in a similar state to Blisters - ie a bit thicker than golden syrup (and a similar colour!) The addition of a small quantity of white spirit seems to have done the trick, and viscosity has returned to more like normal. Phew...

So, a further question to those who in favour of decanting oils into smaller containers - is it ok to use clear glass jars for this? Do oil finishes had to be kept in the dark (as in a tin).