Cherry Bed - was Wood ID please thread

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Looks good Alan, is that the bed you where working on a couple of weeks ago when I came and collected the fire doors? I should have asked for a sneak preview! Where did source the metallic panel from if you don't mind me asking? My brother has asked me to make him some built in sliding door wardrobes and one of the design ideas he fancies is flat, oak veneered doors with a horizontal metallic band about 2ft wide across the middle. Did you let the metal strip into the timber or is it surface mounted? Also are they Stanley parallel clamps in the photo, if so what do you think of them?

Cheers
Richard
 
Hello Richard. Yes after you left I thought I should have offered to show you around more.

It was the bed I was working on. As we spoke I was in a rush to do it but a day or two later the lady found herself in hospital so the time frame changed some what.

The Gold Aluminum strips are from here http://www.sheetplastics.co.uk/Aluminiu ... _Composite

I did let it into the wood yes.

They are Stanley parallel clamps and I can't fault them, they are probably the most used bar (well there more an F clamp) clamps I have.

I do have some sliding wardrobe kits I haven't yet been able to make use of if there of any interest. As for looking around I do apologise. Pop in anytime for a drink and a chat and like I said if you ever need a bit of timber, help or to use something pop in.

I did say while we was chatting that I hadn't had the chance to work on a boat before. Well 2 weeks ago a guy popped in asking if I could build him a console panel for his narrow boat :D .
 
Alan

Thanks for the link, looks just the stuff, just need to work out how to cut a wide shallow recess to hold it. I'm thinking a router on wooden runners but will give it some more thought over the weekend.

The plan is to make a three door unit that will be three metres wide on a double track, I've been looking around at tracks and the prices vary enormously, was going to go for the more expensive options on the basis they should be better quality and more reliable, brother lives 150 miles away and I don't want to running up and down the M6 every other week to sort out doors falling off the track. What size / make are the ones you have and are they double or single track?

Don't worry about not offering a look around, I'm always up for a nose around someone elses 'shop but I was much later than I said I was going to be and it was getting late, I'm sure you had better things to do, maybe next time.

I had been looking for a while at some of those clamps 48" for about £20 which I thought was a good price, just looked again and they're not there anymore, so looks like I missed out.

Working on boats can be quite interesting and challenging but rarely very profitable! I hope you get the job and more importantly make some money out of it, if I can be any help just ask.

Cheers

Richard
 
Hello Richard.

Not sure on the tracks I just remember there in sealed packaging and I had to move them out my way. In fact they was laying on top of the king span your doors was resting on. Ill look and let you know.

I paid around £20-25 each for them clamps which I think are the 48". I wanted more. I got a call on day from the other half who was in a local wholesalers called JTF she described the clamps and price so I said pick 2 up and if there any good Ill get more but upon returning there was only 2 left which was in a worse than 2nd hand state so left them.

I got the boat job there and then. We agreed on a price, he had a look at the materials in the shop and its already half complete. Its all using timbers I already had stock of so its about 90% profit on this one. Its not a big job but a tidy time filler while waiting for glue to set on other projects etc.

For the bed inlay I used a router with its own guide fence. Not idea but the micro adjustable fence helps. I could have done it on the router table but with the long lengths and weight I felt I had more control and less risk doing it by hand. When doing inlays I prefer to have a fence both sides but my rods are not long enough for this one, im thinking of getting some long ones made just for this.

If I was you I wouldn't trust a simple wooden batten clamped on as a guide rail, with where you have to route you will not get that important 3rd clamp on in the middle and with inlays it's not worth the risk of the timber not being perfectly straight. I use either L shaped steel as a guide or as crazy as it sounds a plasters aluminum feather edge http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Feather+Edge/p40959 and run my routers base along them . Nice and slow and with it being oak veneer boards which are expensive have a second batten the other side of the router base just encase you slip or it runs away from you. Also make a nice long T square to help keep these guides square. It is a shame as I was routing these inlays when you arrived.
 
It's nice to know I'm not the only one to see the value in the Aluminiun plasterers derby's, bought one a few years ago to use as a straight edge and wouln't be without it now.

The problem I can see is if he goes for the inlay option it will be about 500mm wide and therefore wider than the router base, I need to find away of supporting the router at a consistent depth across the whole width so I was thinking of some sort of sled supported on battens spanning the whole width of the cut. Not sure if this makes sense. Had a busy day with a leaking toilet today (reminded me why I never wanted to be a plumber!) so not had much time to think about this one. In a way I hope he goes for it, his taste in furniture is completely different from mine and I think it will be a real challenge to do.

Acctually thinking about it a couple of pieces of angle iron spanning the gap with the router sitting on the ledges might work, nice one Alan you've been a real help.

Cheers

Richard
 
Richard S":12vlw2z3 said:
It's nice to know I'm not the only one to see the value in the Aluminiun plasterers derby's, bought one a few years ago to use as a straight edge and wouln't be without it now.

The problem I can see is if he goes for the inlay option it will be about 500mm wide and therefore wider than the router base, I need to find away of supporting the router at a consistent depth across the whole width so I was thinking of some sort of sled supported on battens spanning the whole width of the cut. Not sure if this makes sense. Had a busy day with a leaking toilet today (reminded me why I never wanted to be a plumber!) so not had much time to think about this one. In a way I hope he goes for it, his taste in furniture is completely different from mine and I think it will be a real challenge to do.

Acctually thinking about it a couple of pieces of angle iron spanning the gap with the router sitting on the ledges might work, nice one Alan you've been a real help.

Cheers

Richard

Glade to have helped......... :?

as that made no sense :lol:
 
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