chamfer on a curve

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pitch pine

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Apologies if this has been covered before. I am trying to get a chamfer on some oak. On straight sections and convex curves I use a block plane. What's the right way to do a concave curve? My spokeshave attempts have been quite "chattery" (the curve has alot of end-grain too).

Thanks
 
Spokeshave should do it but you can only work down hill i.e. not against the grain, so you have to work it from opposite sides towards the middle where the grain is straight - if it's an internal that is. Otherwise vice versa. End grain is not a problem as long as you go with it not against it.
Chatter means you aren't doing it right. Practice on scrap,with fine adjustments to start with etc
 
Hi, Pitch Pine

Sharp finely set spoke shave will work, try skewing the shave to remove the chatter marks.

Pete
 
A curved bottomed spokeshave is good tool for the job. Another would be a compass plane. As you are working an end grain concave curve you'll find it best to work from the centre of the board/ panel/ cabinet or table top towards the outside corners, thus working as much as you can 'with the grain'. The chattering may be caused by a variety of things: trying to do too deep a cut, a less than firm grip, and a blunt blade all can contribute, and if you skew the tool a bit that should help. Having said that, curved bottom spokeshaves aren't the easiest tools to use, and you can help them a bit by using a bit of candlewax on the sole, as well as making sure the other points I mentioned are covered. You might also find you could use a drawknife pretty effectively for this job, especially if the wood isn't overly dry. Slainte.
 
Record did a spokeshave with guards designed to do this, no 65 if i recall correctly. Fairly common on ebay
 
Richard is right, but your curve can be imagined either way - end grain either in the centre or at the ends. It doesn't matter -- work TOWARDS the end grain, and stop at any point it changes direction (starts coming towards the blade so that it digs in).

Roy Underhill shows this in one of his recent programmes (OK, I ought to get out more), and IIRC, he finished the middle awkward bit very gently with a paring chisel.

E.
 
Curved bottom spokeshave, finely set, rock it slightly and feel for the angle where it's cutting; but above all you absolutely positively have to skew!
 
As above skewing the shave is essential but try putting a bit more cut on one side than the other, with almost none on the low side. Start with the minimum cut then increase a little until you reach a comfortable balance. Once you have done it once you can do it forever.
 
Many thanks for the replies, lots of helpful tips. I suspect in my impatience the spokeshave blade wasn't sharp enough. I will sharpen and have another go on some scrap......and definately skew!
 
I hate useing round spoke shaves! nine times out of ten I use a flat one with just enough set to cut the size of curve you are working on I.E. the front the back and the blade all touch the face of the work at the same time, it will skip over any hollows dig in and cut more on the humps untill you achieve a smooth curve. ( Well it works for me any way)
 
Chrispy":1mu451bz said:
I hate useing round spoke shaves! nine times out of ten I use a flat one with just enough set to cut the size of curve you are working on I.E. the front the back and the blade all touch the face of the work at the same time, it will skip over any hollows dig in and cut more on the humps untill you achieve a smooth curve. ( Well it works for me any way)

+1 convex bottom spokeshaves are notoriously difficult. Usable, at a pinch, but best avoided if at all possible (a bit like keyhole saws).

BugBear
 
Don't forget that the old wooden spokeshaves are wonderful tools and can be much easier to use than the metal versions as the blade is held at a much lower angle.
As an added bonus they are unfashionable so can be bought for peanuts on ebay or elsewhere. I recommend getting a selection of different sizes.
 
AndyT":gcadzei0 said:
Don't forget that the old wooden spokeshaves are wonderful tools and can be much easier to use than the metal versions as the blade is held at a much lower angle.
As an added bonus they are unfashionable so can be bought for peanuts on ebay or elsewhere. I recommend getting a selection of different sizes.

They are marvellous, and I have "some". But they;re commonly found with lots of wear, either to the body, the blade or both.

Look for a good one.

(and the Veritas LA also has the blade at a low angle, but doesn't cost peanuts)

BugBear
 
The wear to the body can be easily repaired with a small piece of hardwood let in and plained flush, loose tangs can be sorted by drilling and taping for grub screws.
You can also get a Hock spokeshave blade, or a kit with the tricky bits done, and make your own.

Pete, who has a Hock some Prestons and several low angle ones.
 
AndyT":1d97ten2 said:
Don't forget that the old wooden spokeshaves are wonderful tools and can be much easier to use than the metal versions as the blade is held at a much lower angle.
As an added bonus they are unfashionable so can be bought for peanuts on ebay or elsewhere. I recommend getting a selection of different sizes.

+1.

As Pete suggested, repairs to the mouth (which does wear) are quite easy with a bit of boxwood or similar, though holding the spokeshave to sink the rebate for it can be a bit of a puzzle. A piece of brass makes an even better repair; sink the rebate first, offer up the brass and file it to shape before screwing it in place. You can correct for worn blades using this method, too; just make the brass a bit oversize to start with, and file back until you have a suitable mouth opening. One repair like this will see most users right for a lifetime.
 
It was sharpness and patience that solved the problem. I tried to post a photo, but photobucket doesn't like me today. Thanks again for the help.
 
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