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What is the reason for this Casymite / Aerolite glue compared to say Titebond Pva?
Longer working time 25-30 mins +, Sets solid and no joint creep if you are into construction fine enough for it to mater on surface finish.

I doubt you would be able to apply a PVA and get a satisfactory clamp for Something like this


oh pipper....a very expensive mistake has just been made.

I just found that aerolite leaves a nice white glue line which isn't great....in ABW
I don't see this with tight joint lines but if there is any doubt at all I tint the glue powder with walnut stain when mixing.
 
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not sure if/how this can be saved :/

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Perhaps a Vee cut with sharp blade along bottom of tail to remove 1/2mm of adhesive and fill with coloured adhesive, will still show but at least it would be complimentary instead of contrast.
 
I like the sound of a longer working time, trying to align and clamp before the glue sets can be a nightmare and it sounds like it sets harder so also fills.
 
Perhaps a Vee cut with sharp blade along bottom of tail to remove 1/2mm of adhesive and fill with coloured adhesive, will still show but at least it would be complimentary instead of contrast.
thats what im thinking, I have some walnut filler. and after a couple of coats of osmo that don't look too bad. I think its going to be stanly knife and magnifying glass for a bit with some headphones on

or might go shopping for a tiny v-chisel
 
at worst choice inlay along the glue line of the finger joint with a contrasting inlay say 2 or 3mm maple
 
Or perhaps wire inlay

route it with a palm router and a 1mm bit
 
Tried my Aerolite today but noticed something strange. I thought I would dilute the remnants in the container to clean it out. After adding a lot more water and giving it a brisk stir it began to expand, a bit like foam - is this normal? - give it a try.
 
Or perhaps wire inlay

route it with a palm router and a 1mm bit
I carefully cut off the front line on the joint with a craft knife and filled the void with osmo walnut filler, it seems to have come out quite well. cheers for the suggestions.

now its time to cut the lid off and cant decide between using my bosch table saw or the bandsaw. never tried the bandsaw for doing this, suggestions?
 
Unless you are really confident that your bandsaw blade won't drift I would stick with a table saw.
 
Unless you are really confident that your bandsaw blade won't drift I would stick with a table saw.
that was my thought also. although the bandsaw seems setup ok, im a little dubious of it coming out perfect
 
Ugh, that's not ideal. Funnily enough, last week I did a little experiment were I added food colouring to the glue just after mixing. It did what I expected it to (turned it fairy cake blue!) and didn't seem to affect the glue adversely. Maybe a dash of black colouring in the mix would sold your problem?

I used to be a dye chemist making food dyes among others- Please be aware that food colourings do not have very good light fastness and will fade / change colour over time.
 
I have found I can get away with light resistant spirit stain* despite the glue being water activated, mixed in with the powder immediately before mixing the spirit volatiles disperse very quickly, I have not had reason to doubt the strength of the bond and the set glue still has the ability to take the edge off the tools no problem.

*Tried it first time just because I had them to hand.
 
Unless you are really confident that your bandsaw blade won't drift I would stick with a table saw.

Remember to use some spacers, same size as kerf, for the second and subsequent cuts....and a sacrificial board for any breakout.

Regards,
Dave
 
Remember to use some spacers, same size as kerf, for the second and subsequent cuts....and a sacrificial board for any breakout.

Regards,
Dave
I always do 😁 I was just hoping I could avoid the variance I always get on the corners with the table saw, it worked out ok though.

I do love how the squeeze out just pops of although I did pre seal all non glue areas with shellac.
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Got some walnut stain coming tomorrow just to darken the filler in the joints, shouldn't notice after a couple of coats of osmo.
 
When I was doing antique furniture, dark stained wax was a quick result
I watch some chap Thomas Johnson do furniture restoration on the youtoob and he uses waxes, i dont really understand repairing dings with something soft, id imagine it would wear away with polishing etc.?
 
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