It’s actually the other way around - measuring a capacitor on resistance setting gives a low reading that rises. We’ve hopefully eliminated the cap as a problem.Measuring between terminals which exhibit a high, then decreasing, resistance are not connected to each other, that is, they are the true capacitor terminals. (The reason the resistance is initially high then falls is that your ohmmeter has a battery which is effectively charging the capacitor).
You’ll have to open the motor up. On the rotor (spinning part) there should be an obvious switch with a spring and flyweights to pull it in and out of contact. The contacts might need a clean, or there may be a wire off. Take some pics!Sadly again all greek to me what should I be looking for by way of a fault.. I have googled centrifugal switch to see what they look like.
Edit, I have had a look at a couple of videos on centrifugal switches, so I will try and see if I can sort that out, if not probably a new motor after Christmas.
Forgive me, because I don’t know your experience with multimeters, but that doesn’t sound like you’re reading it right.I have put my multi meter set at 200 ohms on the original capacitor and the new one. The original capacitor reading starts at 1 and counts down to 0.002 where it stops, as does the new capacitor when the terminals are paired in one way and remains static when connected the other way.
Am I right in thinking the old capacitor is actually functioning as it seems to behave the same as the new one?
That looks like quite a low value (16uF) - are you sure it’s not a run cap? Easiest thing is to replace it, as they are cheap compared to the overall machine. They usually come with spade terminals, so if your cap is hard-wired (which is a bit silly), then you’ll need to cut the wires and crimp some on.While you knowledgeable people are here, what do I do with this one? I'm fairly sure it's the capacitor that's the problem but I don't want to wreck this one if it's not. The innards are reluctant to come out so I can't see the terminals. Would a replacement be pre wired? There are only two wires (cores) from it.
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Ok, it’s on the 2000 ohm range. The left picture is reading over limit, ie open circuit. The right-hand picture suggests 1 ohm. If this is the true, stable reading, your capacitor is reading as a 1 ohm resistor, and if so, can be considered short circuit.My experience with multi meters is shall we say basic, but attached are the photos taken of a repeated connection of the old capacitor. 1 being with it on and unconnected 001 being the value with the thing connected to the capacitor, swapping leads or terminals makes no difference to the indicated value.
Cross post - good point!Is it a 4 terminal cap? Because it sounds like you are measuring the internally connected terminals giving you the low resistance reading.
For the new cap, do you mean [_001] on the display, or [1___]?The old capacitor is a two terminal with the readings pictured (it was disconnected from the motor). The new capacitor is a four terminal version, connected to the multi multi-meter one way it remains static on 1, connected the other way the m-m behaves exactly the same way as the old capacitor, no settings were changed.
An earlier post suggested [1___] one way and [_001] the other on the new cap. You should make sure the new cap is connected using the terminals that give a stable [1___] reading.The meter starts at 1 when switch on, and will drop down to 001 when connected to the new capacitor, as per photos, the new and old capacitors give the same result.