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Can you put a "hard" finish over a waxed surface?

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Andy Kev.

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Is it possible to apply wax to a decent bit of wood to really bring the grain out and then to preserve the effect by coating it with e.g. Danish Oil? If not D.O. then is there something else that would do the job?

The reason I ask is that the wood in question is a table top and is so potentially open to the usual risks of alcohol, hot drinks etc.
 

CHJ

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Basically No. Wax acts as a release agent and is used as such to prevent resins and adhesive bonding, I'd suggest it's likely to prevent the oil penetrating the wood and result in any polymerised oil surface coating crazing or letting go.

Surprised ' Danish' oil does not enhance the grain, but I would suggest that a Hard Wax Oil would be more robust for internal use, if you want an oiled finish.
 

ED65

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Andy Kev.":1rxnhnny said:
Is it possible to apply wax to a decent bit of wood to really bring the grain out and then to preserve the effect by coating it with e.g. Danish Oil? If not D.O. then is there something else that would do the job?
Well nothing brings out the grain as much as an oil. Does that neatly sidestep the problem for you? For maximising contrast, popping grain, and doing the most for chatoyance wax is I think down the list a bit, below shellac, although that may depend somewhat on the wax(es) used.

Different oils give varied levels of enhancement, the difference can be slight but linseed oil in its various forms is generally considered the champ in this regard. Regardless of what is used the effect will be maximised by a gloss or semi-gloss final sheen; any level of satin or matt will reduce contrast and lessen the effect, considerably from certain angles.

Just in relation to the thread title, if you ever have waxed wood and you wanted to then coat it with something else you really need to clean it off quite well first using lots of white spirit or another solvent and plenty of paper towels or cloth rags (so you're not just spreading the wax around, you're lifting it off and taking it away). Then, if necessary, shellac might be used as an intermediate to ensure your final finish adheres well.
 

sammy.se

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Would an Osmo floor oil be good here, i.e. does both: bring out the grain and hard wearing?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

sunnybob

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I finish my wood the opposite way round.
2 coats of shellac
2 coats of wipe on poly.
I coat of microcrystaline wax.
This positively glistens on bubinga and walnut
 

MusicMan

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+1 for hardwax oil. Brings the grain out, seals, can be glossy or satin, resists heat, coffee, alcohol. I use Fiddes but I believe there is a similar Osmo product.
 

CHJ

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MusicMan":3njmouux said:
+1 for hardwax oil. Brings the grain out, seals, can be glossy or satin, resists heat, coffee, alcohol. I use Fiddes but I believe there is a similar Osmo product.
I've used the Chestnut version on tables with good results, and on turnings requiring regular handling as kitchen utensils.
If you want high gloss, two or three coats will buff to a high gloss after due time allowed for curing.
 

Andy Kev.

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Thank you for all the replies. I've been doing some research on the internet and it looks like the consensus is more or less for something like Osmo PolyX.

Got to be worth a try.

Thanks again.
 

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