Can I re-join split shelves

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pete_v

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Reading
Hi,
I have some old shelves from an old mid-fifties modular bookcase (been in the family for over 60 years) which have some sentimental value. Over time, some of the shelf ends have split and warped in two dimensions - the picture shows the worst split. The wood is light in colour and very hard (maple?). I can line the wood up by hand, but do not have the strength to close the crack without a clamp.
Is there any way in which this can be repaired - moisture/heat etc? I am assuming that simply gluing and holding it together under force will not work?
I am not an experienced wood worker, but will turn my hand to most things.
Many thanks

1604478331926.png
 
You will need a good half dozen clamps in order to get an even pressure at a high enogh force to get the self to glue back together. I would run a saw down that split to fully separate it. Then run a plane along the edge of both pieces held in a clamp at the same time having been fold as though on a hinge to have the 2 mating surfaces facing up. doing this will allow you to negat any errors in planing and still have a flat board once the glue sets
 
Welcome to the forum..... interesting first post.

Joining two twisted/split boards can be done, but not - in my opinion without a deal of work. In the scheme of things, for hand-tool workers it's not a huge job. Basically, you are restoring the board as it was when it was new.
In the time it took to type the reply, Droogs stated the case........

First, after the two sections are separated, the boards may require thicknessing to get them back flat and the same thickness. It can be done either by hand or machine.
Next the two edges will need to be squared and straightened; this is something that I would do by hand, but it's possible with a machine.
After this the edges need to be glued. Usually this will needs clamps. At this point you may consider dowels or splines, but they are an option.

In short, yes - it is possible but you'll need the right tools and ability....... I no longer live in Reading, but alternatively a member here may be able to sort something out. Beer-tokens may help........

Good luck
 
That isn't really a split it's a jointed board that has separated at the glue join because the front edge (left side of the picture) has expanded and contracted over the years due to humidity.

search for the how to edge joint thread on here.
you will need a hand plane to make the faces flat again, you can pick up something like a faithful block plane on amazon that will do this for pretty cheap and they are good enough for what you need.
to make your live easier set a couple of dowels in it for alignment (I'd normally suggest biscuits but as you have already said you aren't a wood worker so are unlikely to have the tools for that, dowels just need a good measure and a decent drill and bit).
you'll need about 5 clamps when you glue it. if you haven't got clamps you can make something up with a batten and a few wedge shaped bits of wood that will do just fine.
the shelf is going to wind up a few mm narrower, if thats an issue then find a strip of something to fill the gap, preferable a contrasting hardwood, it will always look like a repair, so might as well make it standout instead of failing to hide it.

the warp isn't to much of an issue, it's a few mm over a long length and will pull back in with the dowels.
 
Thank you all for very helpful replies. Novocaine, your observation is correct, it is a separated join rather than a split.
I have access to some power tools through Reading Hackspace, including a planer-thicknesser, though this is shutting down for a month due to Covid. This looks like a good excuse to buy a decent plane
 
I'd be tempted to run a clothes iron down it instead (with a damp washcloth under the iron) especially if it were hide or rabbit skin glue, you might see some residue in the separated joint or around it underneath most likely.
And then follow Custard's edge jointing advice with a plane.

If its not coming apart then saw it, what kind of saw do you have?
It might be a good idea to look around for a restored saw from the likes of tooltique.co.uk or the other few places that sell em, I cannot remember the other ones, might be worth a googling with ukworkshop added,
Hopefully they are cheaper as the cheapest hand saw sharpened rip is 38 pounds!
You can buy them for a pound if your willing to file, get one that only needs a touch and no kinks!
A saw file is about a tenner though.
Might need a saw set too which is another tenner for say the well liked eclipse no 77 IIRC.

EDIT: The saw for a pound, and saw set at auction at prices
Tom
 
I'd be tempted to run a clothes iron down it instead (with a damp washcloth under the iron) especially if it were hide or rabbit skin glue, you might see some residue in the separated joint or around it underneath most likely.
And then follow Custard's edge jointing advice with a plane.

If its not coming apart then saw it, what kind of saw do you have?
It might be a good idea to look around for a restored saw from the likes of tooltique.co.uk or the other few places that sell em, I cannot remember the other ones, might be worth a googling with ukworkshop added,
Hopefully they are cheaper as the cheapest hand saw sharpened rip is 38 pounds!
You can buy them for a pound if your willing to file, get one that only needs a touch and no kinks!
A saw file is about a tenner though.
Might need a saw set too which is another tenner for say the well liked eclipse no 77 IIRC.

EDIT: The saw for a pound, and saw set at auction at prices
Tom
Thank you. Your suggestion to try an iron is, I presume, to separate the join instead of sawing?
I have several saws, including large-ish hand saw (old and needs sharpening), tenon saw (OK but could do with sharpening). Saw-set sounds like an excellent idea!
 
if you can find a local joiner and explain to them what's happened, most will be willing to help you out I recon in their shop downtime or in between jobs, it'll save you having to buy a handplane, unless that's what you want to do then fair enough.
 
It doesn’t look too bad to me, I would be tempted to glue it up as it is, get some PVA into the joint and use a business card to get it where the join narrows. Then G cramp on the top to level them up and a couple of cramps across to close the joint , Then take the G clamp off so that it doesn’t mark.
Obviously it depends on the value and just how much work you want to put into it, but I’m sure this will work.
 
It doesn’t look too bad to me, I would be tempted to glue it up as it is, get some PVA into the joint and use a business card to get it where the join narrows. Then G cramp on the top to level them up and a couple of cramps across to close the joint , Then take the G clamp off so that it doesn’t mark.
Obviously it depends on the value and just how much work you want to put into it, but I’m sure this will work.

the more times I look at it, the more I'm inclined to agree to be honest.
 
If the original poster cares to get in touch I have a Record 5 and a half which can change ownership for the postage cost.

John
Hello, that is a very kind offer, and indeed I would be interested in taking you up on it, if still available.
Peter
 
you need to have a 4 posts before you can message people so just comment a couple of times in a thread and then you cn talk to Benchwayze
 
An alternative solution if this can wait until Lockdown is over is to talk to the Silvers Workshop in Reading - The Silvers' Workshop - which is a well equipped Men's Shed, & member of the UK Men's Sheds Association. They will have the tools you need & should be able to give you some advice to help you do it in return for a donation.
 
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