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As shown a record screw cap iron will fit the CS88 and as I previously mentioned and reiterated by Paul and Rob this type of cap iron is essential for the norris style adjuster.

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It escapes me why the original designers did not include a screw cap in the original design.
 
This is a shot of my CS88 with the cap iron mod:

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I brazed a lump of brass over lower hole and re-drilled it, cut off the lever bit and then re-tapped for a bolt from a Record No4 cap iron. It seemed to work OK but I was never really happy with it. I also put a LN iron in which improved it a bit - Rob
 
I know this is silly and I already have a load of planes, including the prototype of the Ray Isles A6 that is suitable for the same stuff a cs88 is. But, I always wanted one of these and ...

Anyone got a spare record screw cap like the one in katellwood's picture they want to sell?

Danny
 
I don't know what has been done to this plane but the frog adjuster is bent, the screw part, which looks about 2ba and half an inch long, has a bend in it!

Danny
 
He fell down the stairs sarge, honest :wink:

Pete
 
Danny

Just got in from work and read your latest, not had time to go and look at my CS however I think the frog mouth adjuster is a large knurled brass nut the thread of which I am unsure.

The way you describe yours would suggest that it is not an original part photo's would really help as there is a possibility that i could make a replacement using mine as a pattern (when time permits)

the only issue is that your plane contains the same thread and has not been retapped
 
Danny

If you mean the frog adjusting screw and the threads in a CS are the same as those in a basic record then this will show the thread used


adjustingscrew.jpg


Im assuming its no 5 in the above drawing
 
Some pics, you can see the bent adjustment screw in the last one, after pics to follow(don't hold your breath), I have a Quangsheng blade and Clifton 2 piece ~(sorry I like them) cap iron.For the moment I have a faithfull screw cap but I am looking for a better option, I might end up making a plain brass one.

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Higher quality available if anyone really wants it :)
 
That really doesn't look too bad. The rust is superficial - easily removable by whatever method you prefer. I think I'd just use a kitchen scourer and "Barkeeper's Friend" or else some fine wet and dry, with WD40 as a lubricant. And I'd try to straighten the brass adjuster, which is original, judging from the ebay pictures. I'm assuming you are looking on it as being a good plane to use, rather than re-sell.
I might even have bought it myself if I'd spotted it!
 
The 00298 on the body casting beneath the rear tote - is that a individual plane number? Any other CS owners care to take a look at theirs? Just curious.

And it's only a little bit bent, Danny. Call it character... ;)
 
Seems to have the worst of all worlds, notwithstanding the alpine sole.

The lever cap is retained by a knurled screw so you cannot even release the blade tension for adjustment with a screwdriver.

I could understand it if C and S were accountants but they were apparently plane engineers, clearly not woodworkers.

The ebay description contains the final accolade that it enjoyed the shortest ever production run.

What a donkey. I don't think LN et al could have asked for much more help to get going.
 
Modernist":g8p2yrbx said:
Seems to have the worst of all worlds, notwithstanding the alpine sole.

The lever cap is retained by a knurled screw so you cannot even release the blade tension for adjustment with a screwdriver.

I could understand it if C and S were accountants but they were apparently plane engineers, clearly not woodworkers.

The ebay description contains the final accolade that it enjoyed the shortest ever production run.

What a donkey. I don't think LN et al could have asked for much more help to get going


I see what you are saying and to some extent agree, the designers incorporated a knurled screw to adjust the mouth however you still need a screwdriver to loosen the frog, this seems pointless to me, a bedrock design would have been better.

In addition the lever cap should have been screw tensioned from the outset (and were available to them as I purchased mine just after purchasing the plane). That being said, change the lever cap or do Woodblokes conversion and you have a good workable plane, never had any complaints whilst working with mine, I love that little bit of additional weight

The other thing I find is that with the norris adjuster there is very little backlash whilst adjusting the depth of cut another plus in my opinion

Finally it was the first ever gift i received from my then to be wife so for me its a keeper no matter what
 
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Any chance of a picture of the bottom of the frog. Does the frog have a slot for the flange on the adjuster screw...

cs_before_10a.JPG

..like the later Records (as opposed to the fork used on earlier Records and all Stanleys)?

katellwood":2q2d8ude said:
...the designers incorporated a knurled screw to adjust the mouth however you still need a screwdriver to loosen the frog, this seems pointless to me,
Maybe it was an attempt to get around the need for a very long screwdriver. I always have hassles getting square onto that screw slot, what with the tote in the way...

dannykaye":2q2d8ude said:
...I have a Quangsheng blade and Clifton 2 piece ~(sorry I like them) cap iron.:)
=D> Another man has seen the light :D

I'll get me coat...

Cheers, Vann.
 
Vann":21lrmt0k said:
cs_before_6a.JPG


Any chance of a picture of the bottom of the frog. Does the frog have a slot for the flange on the adjuster screw...

cs_before_10a.JPG

..like the later Records (as opposed to the fork used on earlier Records and all Stanleys)?

I've alway hated that design - a thin, unsupported piece of cast iron, under side force. Yech.

BugBear
 
bugbear":2luwsedg said:
Vann":2luwsedg said:
Does the frog have a slot for the flange on the adjuster screw...

cs_before_10a.JPG

..like the later Records (as opposed to the fork used on earlier Records and all Stanleys)?

I've alway hated that design - a thin, unsupported piece of cast iron, under side force. Yech.
Yes, that's what I was thinking. I thought the upmarket CS88 might have reverted to the older style of frog adjuster - not that I've ever heard of a cast iron one breaking, but it just doesn't feel right.

Cheers, Vann.
 
The cast iron adjuster "nib" does work perfectly well though :) I just tend to think of this particular modification as one of those improvements that works well enough to keep. :wink:
 
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