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Cabinet top advice sought

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wizer

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I am painting the carcass of my mdf cabinet at the weekend and then i'll be ready to fit the top. The top consists of a sheet of birch ply (24mm) and a sheet of beech veneer mdf (9mm).



Q1: What is the best way to fit the 2 sheet materials? Contact Cement? Which product?

Q2: Once the 2 sheets are glued, how should i go about fixing the top to the carcass? I have some of these which i am thinking of using.. any comments?
 

jasonB

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As you will not be able to apply even pressure to the whole surface, PVA type adhesive is out, so contact will be your best bet. Cut the 9mm a bit oversize then use a flush trim router bit once the adhesive is set, this will allow a bit of play. Also use a "J" roller if you have one.

The blocks should be fine as you do not need to allow for movement as you would with a solid top.

What are you doing with the edges?

Jason
 

wizer

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thanks Jason.

What specific product do you recomend with contact cement? Or will any do? When glued, would it be best to lay heavy objects across the surface to supply preasure, or none at all? I do not have a J Roller, will a normal decorators roller do?

The edges will be trimmed with solid beech attatched with biscuits
 

jasonB

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I usually use Evostic 528 but any decent make will do.

The J roller is a hard rubber roller for pressing the two surfaces together and squeezing out any trapped air, work from the center outwards. Painters roller wont work, try the wife's rolling pin or the slightly rounded edge of a bit of hardwood used like a veneer hammer.

Jason
 

wizer

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jasonB":26jgfvui said:
try the wife's rolling pin

er that'll be my rolling pin
:oops: :wink:

cheers mate
 

jasonB

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Don't get glue on your frilly apron :lol:

J
 

Gill

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jasonB":2lidytvz said:
try the wife's rolling pin
Mrs Abrams":2lidytvz said:
Let's take a moment to talk about shop safety. Remember to read, understand and follow all the instructions that come with your wife's kitchen utensils. And remember this, there is no greater rule than to use them surreptitiously in the workshop at all times.
;) (hammer)

Gill
 

jonny boy

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Hi Wizer,

Don't get too hung up with the air bubbles and rollers, applying a 9mm thick sheet will have minimal problems with trapped bubbles as opposed to thin vaneers or laminates. Once both surfaces have gone tacky, I usually lay thin 20mmx20mm battens across the ply and lay the mdf on top of them. Once you have got your mdf nice and squarish you can slowly remove each batten from one end working across the whole length while pressing down the mating surfaces. This will prevent you from accidently sticking the board in the wrong place and having trouble removing it.

cheers,
jonny.
 
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