Broadband router needed with hard wired mains into

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willie

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Right ,I need to put a broadband router extender in a position where there is ONLY the lighting circuit (6 amp).
NO 13 amp sockets.
I can put a spurred switch fuse (at 3 amp) off the lighting circuit.
Does anyone know of a router extender where the 240 v mains "in" is wires ? (they all seem to have a 13 amp plug pins).
 
Two thoughts as I suspect that a 13A pin is the default plug for most range extenders:
  • is there an earth on the lighting circuit - if so you could put in a spur as you suggest
  • if no earth you could ask the manufacturer whether the range extender actually uses the earth pin or is just for show - most are plastic cased.
 
If your 6 amp circuit is RCD protected and has a cpc(earth) then a 3 amp fused spur from the 6 amp circuit supplying a 13 amp socket is a perfectly safe way to proceed. Label the socket for it's specific use.
 
I use ubiquiti access points and use power over Ethernet. They need 6.5w max per the spec so it seems feasible to do what you want, no idea how though
 
I guess this is just in the home, but if was in a commercial property, you have to check regulations relating to plenum air space.
 
I work at a big old house that has 5amp round pin lighting sockets in each room for lamps, these run off the lighting circuit, the chap has a plug in adapter from round to 3 pin that he uses for low wattage electrical stuff In these sockets.
I know all his electrical work is done by a fully qualified electrician so I’m presuming this is all above board, might be worth discussing with your own electrical engineer as an option for your problem.
 
I suspect that any router is double insulated and doesn't require an earth, certainly none of my mine have. That being the case (assuming I could tap into the lighting circuit suitably) I would have no issue doing so and would simply mark the socket as such.

It's similar to something I have done for our CCTV camera. The camera is powered using a 2 pin bayonet plug into a outdoor lighting fixture (sheltered from the weather). Meets regs? I highly doubt it, safe and effective? Definitely. If/when we move house it will all be removed before we leave.
 
I bet there isn’t a Router on the market that has an earth supply, if you look at the 13 amp plug the Earth pin will be solid plastic, it will also probably be a transformer. Ian
Crossed,
 
Firstly, thanks to all of you.
Doug B, I would like to see a photo if possible of the "animal" you describe out of interest .
Dee J, yes I think that is the only way to go ,my daughters flat is first floor and there is 2 concrete/brick walls between the "Ring" doorbell and the Router. As long as the 13 amp socket is marked for specific use.
I qualified as an Electrician in 1971 and running a 13 amp socket off a lighting circuit didn,t lie easy with me, anyway it is 3 metres in the air so should be ok, in the event of her moving it would be removed.
I think the best way to go is drop a 13 amp extension lead out the window (so as doors can be closed) plug in the extender , if that works put the permanent socket in !
 
I use ubiquiti access points and use power over Ethernet. They need 6.5w max per the spec so it seems feasible to do what you want, no idea how though
I would agree that PoE would be the right way to do this, although I guess OP doesn't want to have to fish a bunch of CAT5E through the ceiling, and then wire up an RJ45 face-plate upside down up a ladder; which I can't blame him for one bit.

As an aside, given the (implied) size of the house described, my experience suggests that a wireless repeater, (or an access point with the same SSID as the router), is likely to actuallymake things worse rather than better, or seriously interfere with the normal functioning of laptops and smartphones using the wireless which are physically positioned between the two AP's.

This is even more if a consideration if the ground floor flat is likely to have its WiFi access point physically proximate to the new AP too...
 
Points taken thanks.
If there was a route to run a Cat 5,I would have run a Twin and Earth mains cable in the first place!
So back to original question of which there seem to be no answers.
Does anyone know of a hard wired mains input broadband extender (it would/should have fuse inside) probably 20mm and low breaking capacity.
 
I only mentioned PoE as it shows the low power needed to run an AP, wasn’t suggesting cabling. If PoE can give enough power then a lighting circuit should be able to.
 
I'm not clear what you are meaning? Can you take a picture of the unit you have?

Are you saying the unit you have uses a mains AC-DC adapter? so the adapter (built on a 13A plug) plugs into the mains socket and the DC cable runs to the router extender?? probably 12V. If so the solution is to source another equivalent ITE power supply with a IEC C8 (figure of 8) or IEC 320 input and wire that into the lighting circuit using a in-line lighting connector. The same as is done for LED drivers.

Edit: After puzzling over what you may have, I think I see what you mean. It's just a plug in extender. You can use an old router as an extender, but probably easier just to put a socket up there.
 
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Sandyn, apart from the fact the unit (router) is 250 miles away so no photos.
My daughter only has a standard plug in extender (13 a plug).
That would have been ok (and still may be ok if as suggested earlier I wire a 13 amp socket marked router only off the lighting circuit ).
To reiterate there is a "Ring" doorbell at the bottom of the stair, it relys on good internet/broadband router signal,it,s bad so an extender may be the answer,but they all have that 13amp 3 pin fitting on the back.
So the suggestion of a power supply WITH/AS a booster/extender is good could someone recommend an actual animal , and when next I visit I will wire into the lighting circuit?
 
Sandyn, apart from the fact the unit (router) is 250 miles away so no photos.
My daughter only has a standard plug in extender (13 a plug).
That would have been ok (and still may be ok if as suggested earlier I wire a 13 amp socket marked router only off the lighting circuit ).
To reiterate there is a "Ring" doorbell at the bottom of the stair, it relys on good internet/broadband router signal,it,s bad so an extender may be the answer,but they all have that 13amp 3 pin fitting on the back.
So the suggestion of a power supply WITH/AS a booster/extender is good could someone recommend an actual animal , and when next I visit I will wire into the lighting circuit?

No idea if it can help, but British General make a WiFi extender built into a 2gang plug.

If you wired that into the lighting circuit in a location which made the sockets physically inaccessible (or better yet took the guts out and mounted on a blank faceplate with a hole drilled for the WPS connection button) that would probably solve you issue.

Not ideal, but it's a solution
 
If you look at the router it will probably require 12Vdc, so buy a PSU that is not built into a 13 amp plug and hardwire this into a FCU powered from the lighting circuit and use a 2 amp fastblow fuse. This prevents any other equipment being connected to the lighting circuit. BUT buy a decent PSU and not something with the potential to be a firework,
 
Jelly sounds good ,could work.
Spectric, youv,e lost me, but thanks for your input.
 
@willie these are the 5amp plugs & sockets

2F7E3F09-D8BF-43C9-964B-BC3D617F7ECA.jpeg


As to the adapter I can only presume it’s something like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Go-Travel-...amp+3+pin+plug+adaptor&qid=1615280194&sr=8-14
but I’m not suggesting it is that one it just looks similar to the one I’ve seen him use, you would have to verify it’s compatibility & safety.
 
Have you considered, there may be things you can do to improve connectivity without having to get an extender. Have you gone through the Ring faultfinding for low receive signal strength?
Make sure it's operating at 2.4GHz not 5GHz. You should be able to do it remotely. Also check the settings of the router. Thee may be options in the set up to improve connectivity. That could be done remotely as well using programs like Teamviewer.
Are there competing WiFi signals in the area which prevents the Ring doorbell connecting with the primary router. I use inSSIDer. (was free) That will show any competing WiFi using the same channel. You would need to be local to the system to check and have a laptop with WiFi.



inSSIDER.JPG
 
Are there competing WiFi signals in the area which prevents the Ring doorbell connecting with the primary router. I use inSSIDer. (was free) That will show any competing WiFi using the same channel. You would need to be local to the system to check and have a laptop with WiFi.



View attachment 105547

This is excellent advice.

As I said I've had issues with spectral clouding and overlapping WLAN coverage which could only be resolved by the kind of methods discussed above.

Adding extra AP's actually made it much worse.
 
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