Breadboard Ends

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kjones21

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Hi all, I'm new to the forum and also relatively new to making my own furniture, though I have done a couple of larger construction projects in the past (oak framed sheds). I'm in the process of constructing a dining table. The 36" wide top consists of four 2" thick oak planks, to which I'm intending to add traditional breadboard ends. I want to use haunched tenons and dowels for attaching the breadboard and have so far cut one long tenon at each end.

My dilemma is; where do I cut and glue the tight fitting mortice and tenon? Do I make it central, so it covers the join of the inner two planks or do I make four, three inch side tenons at the centre of each planks and glue up just one of them. I'm intending to use dowels on.

Sorry if it sounds like a daft question but I'm a little uncertain how having an offset fixed mortice and tenons might affect the expansion of the wood on either side
 

Jameshow

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Hi I'm in the same position building my first breadboard ends.

I have 6x6" boards.

I plan to fix the middle two planks and then the two outer board will be floating with 8mm dowels in through elongated holes.

Waiting for the turkey shoot!

Cheers James
 

Fitzroy

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Had the same dilemma building this desk, couldn’t find a definitive answer but decided I didn’t want a central peg too close to the glue line, so went for two offset pegs in one tenon. Has been fine over the last year of seasonal change.

Doing it again the change I’d make is not extending the tongue and groove to the end of the breadboard. It makes it harder to cut, as you can’t make a through cut on a few able saw or router table, but the end looks untidy with it visible.
Fitz.
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0D89CA41-57EE-428F-BF2E-D8AE5230ED36.jpeg
 

Jameshow

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Q - Why would you put three separate tenons in rather than a long continous tenon?

Cheers James
 

Argus

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Q - Why would you put three separate tenons in rather than a long continous tenon?

Cheers James


If the tenon went the entire continuous length of the B/B end internally, it would eat up about 3/4 of the internal space and weaken the strength of the B/B section.
This way it provides the maximum distance for the pegs and the whole joint is supported its entire length by the short stub at the back.

Provided that the middle section is secure and the peg-holes at each side are sufficiently elongated to allow a minute amount of movement it will be a strong joint for generations.

 

kjones21

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Thanks all for your comments and advice. I think that I'll go with Fitz's idea and use two offset pegs, glued in a central tenon. I was thinking of having about 6mm space, either side of the pegs on the outer tenons - hopefully that'll be enough?

I'll also take note of having long horns....anything to make life easier :)
 

msparker

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I think the idea is to have 1 tenon per board, so you'd go with four. In this case I guess you'd just glue one of the more central ones.

If you go with 3/5...

If the glue joint in the boards is good I think you should be fine to put a dowel in the middle. I reckon this will look better.

If you're worried about the tenon breaking just offset it less (or not at all) when you drawbore it. Once the middle tennon is glued, the glue will be doing all the work not the dowel.
 

Jameshow

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My boards are 6" wide you you think 3" 4" or 6" breadboard ends look best??

Cheers James
 
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