Box joint router bits

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timberfly

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I'm looking to make some small and repeatable hardwood boxes, and box joints look like the best way to go. I'm finding accuracy tough to make good enough mitres. Does anyone have experience with box joint router bits like the ones here (US link)?

It looks like I've had to make some accurate bit height changes, and a couple of changes to make taller boxes. But with a Wixey digital gauge attached to my router table, it looks like a quick and easy way to go about this project. Any tips?
 
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The original Incra jig (metric or imperial versions are available at WoodWorkersWorkshop) could be a good choice. Very accurate and versatile jig. You can either buy the compatible Incra fence to go with the jig or make your own. Pretty cheap too @ ~£65 for the jig and about the same for the fence if you want to take that too.
 
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I would make a simple jig and use a standard straight router bit. adjustable to any sized/height box with the exception that you might want to size it to an exact number of finger.
 
The original Incra jig (metric or imperial versions are available at WoodWorkersWorkshop) could be a good choice. Very accurate and versatile jig. You can either buy the compatible Incra fence to go with the jig or make your own.

To add, you just use standard straight bits with this jig. Metric sizes for the metric version, imperial for the imperial. One box joint template comes with the jig and you can either buy more (also available from WoodWorkersWorkshop) or make your own using the free online software - pyrouterjig.
 
Thanks both, I'd looked at jigs but wondered if a box joint bit would be quicker/more accurate. Could you clamp multiple pieces together with an Incra/self-made jig, say to make four box sides at once? I have the big Triton, and looking at 1/2" or 3/4" hardwood sides.
 
Thanks both, I'd looked at jigs but wondered if a box joint bit would be quicker/more accurate. Could you clamp multiple pieces together with an Incra/self-made jig, say to make four box sides at once? I have the big Triton, and looking at 1/2" or 3/4" hardwood sides.

How wide are the box sides? And how big (wide) do you want the fingers to be?
 
Only small, maybe 3 or 4" wide for the sides, and I'm not too fussed on the finger sizes so long as it looks fine and is stable.
 
Only small, maybe 3 or 4" wide for the sides, and I'm not too fussed on the finger sizes so long as it looks fine and is stable.

I haven't used finger/box jointing bits so can't advise on that. But I do know the Incra jig will help you to accurately cut box joints and dovetails as well as rebates, dados, grooves, etc... Very versatile. Clamping multiple peices together on a right angled fixture is possible with the Incra jig, so you cut the parts together. Just need to be careful that the weight of four thick(ish) peices doesn't cause the fixture to tip, throwing the cuts out of alignment.
 
I have the Incra jig but use it on the table saw as I can fit flat ground blades. It is unique in that you can adjust the fitting of the box joints. If you want the very best fit possible then make the joints tight as there is nothing worse than hairline gaps. I have no experience of the router box cutting bit ( which is available from www.wealden.com ) but I imagine the limited height restricts what you can do with it.
 
I would make a simple jig and use a standard straight router bit. adjustable to any sized/height box with the exception that you might want to size it to an exact number of finger.

My main hobby is restoring domestic vintage valve radios for which items of test equipment is called for. I and others in the hobby design and build simple items of test equipment to meet our needs and for many years, I've made little comb-jointed ('AKA finger join, box joint') from offcuts of mahogany and oak 1/4" thick using a home-made router jig which cost me nothing. The boxes cost me nothing and look a bit 'retro' like 'crystal set' boxes of yesteryear, so are in keeping with the hobby. I use a router bought from a car boot sale for a tenner, and a 1/4" straight sided router bit, but other sized bits and wood thicknesses could be used if desired. In use, the jig is held in place with a batten along the underside of the front edge, in a woodworking vice attached to my bench.

The largest box I've made has been 15cms deep x 20cms long, though The jig will make boxes of any length and depth, but my bandsaw will only cut wood up to 15cms depth, which is adequate for my needs. I made the jig to be slightly adjustable to set it so that the joints can be accurately cut for the 'combs' to mesh together. I've found that unless a piece of sacrificial hardboard is placed behind the wood being routed in the jig, some breakout occurs on the rear of the workpiece.

The jig design was from a book 'Making Router Jigs and Gadgets' by the late Roy Sutton.

Some examples below of boxes I've made to house items of home-made electronic test equipment, and of the jig, which broadly consists of a table for the router and a 'sled' which slides in a groove routed in the table. The last pic is of a test piece to check that the jig is accurately set up. (That would be glued up and sanded off at the corner to check that there are no gaps in the joint). Once the first cut has been made, that is located on a peg to line up the workpiece for the second and subsequent cuts.

Hope that might be of interest.
 

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