block planes

[Alf]

Chuckle... :lol:

 

[afreegreek]

the problem with using a low angle block plane to clean up dovetails is only half of the joint is end grain. the rest is face/long grain.. once you get the end grain flush you have a dilemma.. I pare the protrusions flush with a slicing action and a sharp chisel (drawer, jewelry box etc.) or a flush cutting japanese saw (blanket chest, dresser etc.) and then finish up with a regular angle plane or block plane. just skew the plane in your hand until you get past the end grain.

 

[Philly]

2004!!! You're "commenting" on a six year old thread Mr/Mrs Greek - surely you know this? If you want to start new threads with your planing tips please feel "free".
Philly

 

[mr grimsdale]

the problem with using a low angle block plane to clean up dovetails is only half of the joint is end grain. the rest is face/long grain.. once you get the end grain flush you have a dilemma.

Why? I see no problem

. I pare the protrusions flush with a slicing action and a sharp chisel (drawer, jewelry box etc.) or a flush cutting japanese saw (blanket chest, dresser etc.) and then finish up with a regular angle plane or block plane. just skew the plane in your hand until you get past the end grain.

I saw them off with tenon or DT saw and finish with an ordinary block plane (Stanley 220). Has to be sharp and handled carefully. A 'better' block plane is less likely to tear out so requires less caution.

 

[woodbloke]

2004!!! You're "commenting" on a six year old thread Mr/Mrs Greek - surely you know this? If you want to start new threads with your planing tips please feel "free".
Philly

I agree Philly...we'll soon have Mr or Mrs Greek commenting on everything over 12 months old - Rob