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Blade-to-mitre slot adjustment on SIP 01332 table saw

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Deadeye

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Owned this for a year now and generally been happy.
However, as I've learned more and improved my skills, I have also been back round to improve the set up of my machines.
Long story short; got a dial gauge on the blade and it's out of true with the mitre slots (which *are* parallel to each other!).
So I need to move the blade relative to the table (or vice versa). The manual is no help at all. Nor was SIP tech support who said "we don't know much about that product" - yes, that's what they said - and sent me the same manual as I already had!!
Anybody know how to make this adjustment? I've got the side panel off and the blade out and removed the dust catcher to have a look but it's a horribly awkward space and I can't see any obvious adjustment (= I can't see where the assembly is attached to the table).
My heart is sinking a bit as I assume I'm going to have to take the extensions off, invert the saw, detach the cabinet and then set up on saw horses to make the adjustment? Am I missing something obvious before I put my back out?
 

sunnybob

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Quite often there isnt actually an "adjustment".
Sometimes you just loosen the holding screws (they are in a over tolerance hole), force the motor over sideways and hold it there while you tighten the screws up.
 

Lons

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Yes you can adjust but it's a pain, you need to loosen, very slightly the motor mounting nuts from under motor the side of the saw, leave them just tight then use a length of wood and tap with a hammer to adjust. Tighten the nuts one at a time and check after each one that it's still in alignment.

It's several years since I did mine but from memory I needed to remove the guard under the blade and refit the blade so I could measure whilst adjusting but as I was doing another repair at the time it might not have been necessary for this. You can access by removing the top side panels under the table but a couple of the nuts are awkward.
Might not be the correct procedeure but worked for me.
I have a feeling Steve Maskery might have had this saw, certainly several other members do so maybe they know an easier method.

It's surprising that the tech guys at SIP had no idea but I suppose it's just a rebadge process and sell on.

Thanks for reminding me I need to check mine again, I wish you hadn't. #-o :wink:

Edit
This might be of interest and probably others if you do a search
sip-table-saw-problems-t69962.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpg39Lbwpu0
 

GrahamF

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If you remove the right hand top panel, you can reach the bolts holding the motor and blade assembly to the table. IIRC there are two at each end of the assembly and if slackened it can be moved.
 

Deadeye

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Thanks all -
I've had both side panels off, cleaned out and taken a good look.
I'm not at all convinced that it is adjustable. :( :(
The four bolts that hold the whole motor and blade assembly to the table are in fixed threaded holes (as they have to be).
The problem is that they work by clamping a press block (D-66 for those with the quite exquisitely rubbish manual) to the table. The press block has a semi-circular cup into which the rod of the cradle fits. It is also shaped to lock into the casting of the table top, effectively meaning it can only be tightened into one position as far as I can see.

All this inspection is through awkward holes, and less than ideal lighting, so I'm really hoping that someone will tell me I'm wrong? I've got to be wrong on this surely?
 

Deadeye

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I should say I discovered this because I had loosened 3 of the 4 bolts slightly and was trying to tap it round and couldn't see why it wouldn't adjust... and then I saw the lugs.
 

GrahamF

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My iTech 01332 (same saw) definitely moved with the 4 bolts slackened but it only needed twisting by about the amount of slack in the bolt holes.
 

Deadeye

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Hi all - and thanks for the advice.
You are right (and I am relieved) - it is adjustable, although only just (at least on my saw).

My error is that I loosened three bolts and hoped to pivot on the fourth to make the adjustment. Turned out that the two at the other end to the one I'd left fixed were at the end of their range, which is why I could get no improvement. Leaving one of those fixed and loosening the others did allow enough adjustment, although only just.

Out of interest, what do folk think is "close enough" for the front to back (same tooth) difference? I've got a dial indicator running from the mitre slot and got it down to .04mm but that's all the play I seem to have.
 

Lons

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I can't answer that Deadeye but there's no guarantee that your blade is dead true in any case and if you change blades you could well get a different reading.

That would certainly be close enough for me as the cut from the tablesaw is never finished dimension anyway and will require a plane and or sanding to finish.
 
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