blade and clamps

[boboxsi]

I question. I was thinking since it is hard to buy blades in my country because there are no suppliers. Everything i have to order in Germany, fright cost ....
If i notes the main problem with the blade if you cut wood - not playwood (playwood thick 10 mm burns blade fast )
Did anyone try to use 2 blade clamps and change it every 7-10 min? Will i have this 2 blades more time since i will not overheat the blade?
My buying price is 0,5 eur fright cost includet (0,57 USD; 0,37 GPB) per blade and i burn 2-3 pcs on pattern.
Did anyone try it, any experience.
Sorry i know for some it is small amount but if you look just a little from finance way is the cost of the blade the same as the wood.

My be Geoff will have some advice since he is changing blade every 20 min.



Thank you

 

[Claymore]

I use Pegas blades and cut mainly 3/4" Oak/Beech/Walnut and the blades seem to last pretty well. I must say I cut very little plywood so don't know how long they would last using that but the main blades i use are Pegas number 3's and i use very little pressure and don't try to go fast and maybe that is why they last longer?.
Geoff is a Pro scroller so he should be along soon and probably be more helpful.
Cheers
Brian

 

[Chippygeoff]

Hi Blaz. I am finding it hard to understand why you have this problem in cutting plywood 10mm thick. If you are using a good quality blade then the blade should not burn the wood. Some types of plywood are not very good for scroll sawing because of the way the plywood is made using adhesives that dry like steel and there are other factors that will blunt the blade quite quickly.

If you want to continue using the plywood that you have then I would suggest that you cover it both sides with clear packaging tape, this will help considerably in reducing the friction between the blade and the plywood and the cut should be noticeably faster. Even so you may experience some burning on tight corners.

I sometimes stack cut 4 pieces of 6mm birch faced plywood with a 5 or 7 blade and have never had a problem with the wood burning. You need good tension and a fast speed. Some weeks ago I was asked by a friend to cut some oval shapes from 25mm thick interior grade plywood that had an oak veneer on one side. I needed to cut ten of these and made them all using just one number 7 blade and they were approximately 200 x 130 mm in size and I did not use any clear tape on them either.

I did say I change my blades round about every 20 minutes but this does not mean that the blade is completely blunt. After about 20 minutes of cutting 20mm thick hardwoods the blade tends to slow down and this is a sign that the blade is coming to the end of it’s useful life. If I were to carry on using the same blade it would still cut but then the blade would start wandering from the line of the pattern so in order to keep up with my workload I change the blade when it starts to slow down.

I hope this helps Blaz. If you have any more questions then just ask.

 

[boboxsi]

Thank you for fast answer

Geoff I use blade which you send it to me. My be i am to impatient and i am pushing wood to hard and result is blade problem and not clean line as i will like it to have. When i watch your work with so clean cutting line i am impressed - I know you have experience for lifetime. Do you sand a lot of your work after cuting?

I Learn a lot in this half year that i have scroll saw. Now i am making router table - I order aluminium plate and some local craftsman will made me plate for 20 eur. I hope this turn perfect- i will made some picture of it.

Regarding blade
Do you have your blade when cutting Oak 3/4 just for one project? Or to be more specific - How many blades do you use for cutting cat who have hart in her tail. How many time do you use it to cut it out.

Best Regards

 

[Chippygeoff]

Hi Blaz. From what you have said I would agree with you that you are pushing the wood to fast, it is the only logical explanation. Yes, I do a lot of sanding. When I have cut something I put it on the belt sander and sand off both sides, then I take it to the router table and round over the edges. Where the cutter has gone across the grain it will feel a bit rough on the surface with most types of wood and these areas need a light sanding. It is okay where the cutter has gone with the grain as these areas are quite smooth to the touch. Glad to hear you are getting a router table sorted out. It will add another dimension to the work that you do and make you things more appealing.

With regard to the cat. I made one a couple of weeks ago for a customer, I made it a bit larger than normal as they wanted a name on the heart. Many people put a new blade in when they start something new but I don't. I carry on using the same blade until I feel it is time to change it. I have a magnet by the side of the saw table that I use for partly used blades, mostly 3s, 5s and 7s. Fot cutting the cat I only used one blade and also cut a few other things from the same blade. I used a number 3 blade to cut the name though. Hope this helps Blaz and I wish you all the best for the future.