Blade advice sought

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devonwoody

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Put a different blade to my new tablesaw yesterday, the one supplied was a 27 tooth ripping blade. The manual calls their 38 tooth a standard blade. Why the machine does not therefore come with a standard blade gave me some thoughts.

The new blade of a different manufacturer to my saw model which has 42 teeth however does not produce a crosscut any better than original!

I do have another blade with 80 teeth unused which was supplied as a spare with a purchase some years ago from Axminster for their AWS10 mitre saw.

This blade is a 254mmx2.8 x 30 x80Z the kerf cut is therefore 0.1mm greater than my riving knife!

I would not obviously use this blade on any ripping operations but would like to use its potential for fine crosscutting work such as picture frames etc. Seeing that a fence is not involved the riving knife problems should not in my opinion present any operating problems. Am I correct?

Also being supplied with the mitre saw, does the tooth pattern present dangerous use?
 
Was the 42T blade sharp?

I find a sharp blade with less teeth gives just a good a cut as one with more teeth with less scorching in hardwood. I tend to keep a 24T (200 dia) blade for general work, 48T with high top bevel for Melamine, 60T for veneered boards & a 18T flat top for ripping.

Your chop saw blade may have negative rake which will possibly raise the risk of kick back.

Jason
 
Jason :

The 42T blade is brand new of British Sheffield manufacture so should be sharp?

How does one distinguish negative rake?
 
Take a straight edge from the center of the bore to a tooth, if the tip of the tooth touches first then you have positiverake, if the base touches first you have negativerake.

Jason
 
devonwoody":1q5ycbc3 said:
Seeing that a fence is not involved the riving knife problems should not in my opinion present any operating problems. Am I correct?

I'd say, yes, you are. But even if you use the riving knife, I wouldn't expect 0.1mm to cause a problem. It might if it were 0.1mm tighter and were ripping, but not wider and crosscutting.

Cheers
Steve
 
FelderMan":de4017hm said:
Is your new saw table the Record TSPP250 by any chance ??

I believe Devon has already tried and rejected one of those saws. He's now on his second manufacturer! I'm sure he'll correct me if I'm wrong!

Adam
 
Graduated to my third tablesaw, started with a Triton 3 years ago and will let you know sometime in the future which was the best :)

I'm beginning to think T/saws can be like the ladies, very tempermental at times :)
 
devonwoody":10hlkyba said:
I'm beginning to think T/saws can be like the ladies, very tempermental at times :)
If you go round comparing ladies to table saws, no wonder they tend to be temperamental... :roll: :lol:
 
devonwoody":2cilnvuh said:
Put a different blade to my new tablesaw yesterday, the one supplied was a 27 tooth ripping blade. The manual calls their 38 tooth a standard blade. Why the machine does not therefore come with a standard blade gave me some thoughts.

The new blade of a different manufacturer to my saw model which has 42 teeth however does not produce a crosscut any better than original!

Surprised DW. Generally the more teeth, the better the crosscut - up to a point. I find 42 point blades much better than 24 for crosscut and they rip just fine.

maybe the 42 tooth was not a decent manufcturer? or not sharp?
 
Tony,

That's what I would have thought, so I splashed out on the 42t blade.

I do have a cmt 60t blade on the mitre saw and that was what I was trying to ape. The cut has the appearance of glass with that blade.
 
I use all Dimar blades. IMHO, they're the best for the money. I have their combination blade on my table saw and the only time I change it is to put on the dado set or their rip blade if I'm going to do a lot of ripping. I took the stock blade off my mitre saw and added the Dimar blade: the difference was like night and day. As usual, I'm not affiliated with Dimar or anyone that sells that product, I'm just a happy customer.

Ed :)
 
thanks Ed 451 for feedback, I've checked out a couple of blades I have on my mitre saw 60t & 80t which both seem to have positive rake so will give them a run at crosscuts and see if I can get the end grain cut I so desire :wink:
The accuracy of my new table saw on crosscuts is very satisfactory but a poor finish compared to the cut the 60t CMT was giving.

Haven't tried my adjustable groover cutter blade yet (not a proper dado function blade). Anyone out there using this groover blade ?
 
I have a jet contractor saw . I use a 24 tooth for riping and a 60 tooth for finer crosscuts. I use a 80 tooth thin curf on my dewalt 12 slider. Mikie
 

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