black walnut availability

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Another solution which hasn't been mentioned yet, unless I missed it, is to use the sapwood and appreciate it as part of the tree that it came from with its own natural beauty.
 
BUt the doors are already two-tone. The two-tone itself is, how can I put this politely, a brave choice. Adding a third will look awful, I think.
S
 
+1 on that Steve!

In fact Dave, if I were you, I would just buy enough for a sample panel just 'confirm' SWMBO's choice of colour scheme.

Bob
 
9fingers":q02tsk5f said:
and stay away from any that are too 'flat'

Bob

Whats that mean then ..... could you expand on this a bit more .. I'm confused
 
doctor Bob":2w3gs9ik said:
9fingers":2w3gs9ik said:
and stay away from any that are too 'flat'

Bob

Whats that mean then ..... could you expand on this a bit more .. I'm confused


If the growth ring arcs have a large radius, then they are likely to have come from near the outside of the tree and have an increased risk of sapwood in the centre of the board. ie the opposite of a quarter sawn type board where wastage tends to be on a board edge
When I bought my ABW, some of which turned out to have sapwood showing once planed, it was the boards with near flat or large radii growth rings that were the worst culprits.

Bob
 
9fingers":ldjetpml said:
doctor Bob":ldjetpml said:
9fingers":ldjetpml said:
and stay away from any that are too 'flat'

Bob

Whats that mean then ..... could you expand on this a bit more .. I'm confused


If the growth ring arcs have a large radius, then they are likely to have come from near the outside of the tree and have an increased risk of sapwood in the centre of the board. ie the opposite of a quarter sawn type board where wastage tends to be on a board edge
When I bought my ABW, some of which turned out to have sapwood showing once planed, it was the boards with near flat or large radii growth rings that were the worst culprits.

Bob


I was up for an argument but now realise you are talking about growth rings and not implying steering clear of flat boards.
 
Bob - on the point of colour scheme, I think that may be the right approach. I spent Sunday afternoon cutting in paintwork on a section of wall to let SWMBO see how it would tie in with the new wall and floor tiles. And I hate painting.

After buying 11 pots (£55 just on the pots) of tester paint samples she finally chooes "English Mist" - a kind of New England colonial green, anyway, when I got home from work Monday night she thinks the colour doesn't quite compliment the tiles.............. Back to the old drawing board and your advice on a small tester sample will now definately be adhered to.
 
Doctor bob - I've just had a look at your website, very impressive work. I thought my kitchen was turning out nicely but it seems I have a ways to go to match yours.

I think I'll have another look.

Steve - Now that you mention the three tone, I'm wondering if that will actually look awful?? The ABW worktops I have just installed are multi toned and look great ...to me at least. Whether or not that same look on the cabinet door frames would be as appealing I don't know. That said, the colour is not down to me, I'm only going to have to make them
 
Since you're only using walnut for the frame, I don't think you'll have too hard a time avoiding the sapwood. You can rip your frames from wider boards, cutting out the sap. Even on a relatively thin board (say, 3/4") there can be sapwood visible on one side while on the other side only heartwood is visible, so pick your layout carefully. As Bob said, sapwood can be dyed. After finishing, the difference between the light sapwood and the dark heartwood will be less dramatic, too.

I think the sapwood is not considered a defect because it's structurally sound and can be dyed, and thus is commercially usable. I do know that bugs like to eat it, though. I was given a batch of walnut that had been sitting in a barn for 30 years, and the sapwood had holes all through it, while the heartwood was almost untouched.

Kirk
 
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