Best way to machine off one side of a large wood beam, in situ?

[Jonm]

It is looking good. I think the problem with infill panels is keeping the water out of the frame.

With regard to cladding, as you say, the decorative panels have caused problems and having vertical joints will not have helped either.

For cladding you could consider tiles, it is a large flat area without windows, the only special tiles would be the external corner between the face and the sides.

I went for lead, my dormers are smaller with windows, tiling would have been difficult with lots of expensive special tiles. I did not want timber for maintenance reasons and plastic was out of the question. Here is a picture

 

[rich1911]

It is looking good. I think the problem with infill panels is keeping the water out of the frame.

With regard to cladding, as you say, the decorative panels have caused problems and having vertical joints will not have helped either.

For cladding you could consider tiles, it is a large flat area without windows, the only special tiles would be the external corner between the face and the sides.

I went for lead, my dormers are smaller with windows, tiling would have been difficult with lots of expensive special tiles. I did not want timber for maintenance reasons and plastic was out of the question. Here is a picture
View attachment 139170

Yep, Lead or zinc is an option... or even Polyurethane mock tudor boards! (the horror....)

 

[Jonm]

or even Polyurethane mock tudor boards! (the horror....)

Mock Tudor cladding be it timber or polyurethane is still “mock”. Personally I would not want the maintenance liability of painted timber in that location.

I like the beetle (as in car) in your previous photo.

 

[rich1911]

Mock Tudor cladding be it timber or polyurethane is still “mock”. Personally I would not want the maintenance liability of painted timber in that location.

I like the beetle (as in car) in your previous photo.

Yes, painted stuff needs repainting!

The Bug is a '68. It's my other half's.

 

[rich1911]

Still going at it! One dormer is done and it looks great. No mock tudor on it.

Onto the second one. This time I am cracking throught it about 5 times quicker, now I know what I'm doing!

The method I used before to clear off the front of the beams worked but it is S-L-O-W... (routing it off in 5 inch wide strips, in 30 inch sections)

Just thinking again about other ways to slice off an inch of timer from the front of the beams. I can access the top and bottom of one of the beams, which is 125mm thick, so it may be possible to run a circular saw along the top and then along the bottom as my saw cuts to 70mm depth. Tricky holding it upside down though.

The lower beam is tapered so its 175mm thick in the middle and 100mm at the ends. No access to underneath though as its resting on joists.

Wondering if a reciprocating saw would cut straight enough, if it was following the groove cut by the circular saw first?

The router method is good as it allows me to go deeper where the rot has penetrated more, but on the second dormer the rot seems more uniform and is nearly all no more than an inch deep.

 

[Inspector]

If you have an electric hand plane/power plane you could remove most of the wood quickly and finish off with your router set up. Pictures of the completed dormer?

Pete

 

[rich1911]

If you have an electric hand plane/power plane you could remove most of the wood quickly and finish off with your router set up. Pictures of the completed dormer?

Pete

Hi Pete, Don't have a power plane, but would one work on a beam 125mm wide? I need to get a good inch off across the whole beam.

I'm going to get a recip saw and give it a go. Cut a 70mm slot with the circular saw first then cut the remaining with the recip saw.

If that won't cut straight, I will just cut vertical slots with the circular saw and hand chisel off the wood.

 

[Inspector]

I have a 3"/75mm and a 4"/100mm power planes. You just take multiple passes stepping over each time. I thought you would finish up with the router jig setup to get it flat and even, using the power plane to do the roughing, taking 1.5mm to 3 mm per pass. You won't find a 125mm power plane, most being around 75mm give or take and a few like my Makita being 100mm. Then the next up is 150mm but that gets to be a heavy beast when not horizontal on a beam.

Pete

 

[sawtooth-9]

If the beam is non-structural, cut it out and replace it.
If the beam is structural - support with an acro prop, then cut it out and replace the beam.
Really, it is the easiest in the long run.

 

[Jonm]

Still going at it! One dormer is done and it looks great. No mock tudor on it.

It would be good to see some pictures of the finished one.

 

[rich1911]

Trying another method. Vertical circular saw cuts using a guide and then hammer and chisel. The rot depth is shallower on this side and more consistent depth so taking an inch off all along the front of the beam should get me well past the rotten stuff. Most of it is no more than half an inch deep.

Here's a pic of the other side.