Best Table Saw for Cutting Mitred Edges on Sheets of Perspex

[smallprint]

I am looking to buy a table saw for cutting oblique mitred edges on sheets of perspex.
Each sheet is 5mm thick and max 1200mm x 1200mm but that can change.
Its for making sculptures.
It's a hobby so won't be being used everyday.
Attached are some images showing the type of cut I want to make.
Need to work in a small studio so ideally the saw can be put away easily.
Precision is important.
Looking for around £300 price range.

I'm looking at the saws below any ideas which would be the best for what I want to do.
And is there a showroom in or near North London where I can go look at them..... (not that important)

Looking at in no particular order....

1) Axminster Hobby Series BTS10ST Table Saw - 230V

2) Einhell TC-TS 2025/1 U Table Saw with 5000 rpm Underframe - Red

3) Proxon Table saw FET

4) SKIL 3410-02 10-Inch Table Saw with Folding Stand

Also seen Dewalt and Bosch make them.... I usually buy Bosch, but happy with other suggestions.
Also if there is another tool that would do this better open to ideas.

Thanks in advance I've trawled through a lot of reviews but hard to tell what is best for what I want to do.
Want to make sure buy the right tool.

 

[MikeJhn]

Waiting with bated breath for anyone that can point out a table saw that will cut at a 75deg angle, I don't know of one, cutting a 1200mm sheet against the fence would not seem to be a very viable alternative either, a jig may be able to be made up to slide in the mitre slots to hold the sheet material at the angle required against the blade, but would require lots of clamps to keep the sheet stable, anyone any better suggestions?

 

[Jacob]

Waiting with bated breath for anyone that can point out a table saw that will cut at a 75deg angle, I don't know of one, cutting a 1200mm sheet against the fence would not seem to be a very viable alternative either, a jig may be able to be made up to slide in the mitre slots to hold the sheet material at the angle required against the blade, but would require lots of clamps to keep the sheet stable, anyone any better suggestions?

Cut them to size+ and then cut the bevel with the workpiece vertical?
It cuts easily with a circular saw but the prob would be holding it firm for a steady clean cut with no vibrations. No doubt somebody on here does it regularly and knows how, but a starter suggestion might be to clamp it firmly to a block or carriage of some sort and set the blade at 15º.

 

[smallprint]

Hi both I do appreciate your input and ideas. I have been researching this and pondering it for some months.

Both using the a Jig and or Cutting the sheet vertically have been suggested to me by offline advisors.

So it seems like they are the best solutions.

But this still begs the question..... what would be the best saw to do this with at around £300 range?

 

[smallprint]

Off course more detailed instructions on how to do it properly are also welcome. But I need to buy a tool soon so really need to know what's best tool for this.

 

[Jacob]

Hi both I do appreciate your input and ideas. I have been researching this and pondering it for some months.

Both using the a Jig and or Cutting the sheet vertically have been suggested to me by offline advisors.

So it seems like they are the best solutions.

But this still begs the question..... what would be the best saw to do this with at around £300 range?

It's only a small cut so what about a small dia saw but good quality?
Basically it won't make much difference which one you buy - but pricier tends to mean better, more stable etc.

 

[marcros]

it would be less efficient, so it depends a bit on how many sheets you need to do at a time. I haven't cut much acrylic, so it is all theory.

I would look at a long grain shooting board eg post1161509.html?hilit=shooting%20board%20custard#p1161495, but made to suit the bevel angle that you need, and a shooting sander.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbAZkXm0WmA

I doubt that it would take long to bevel the edge of 5mm stock, and you would have a polished edge. You could have/make a couple of the sanders with different grit on.

 

[Jacob]

Or go up-market for one with a long sliding table which would carry your workpiece solidly mounted on some design of jig.
NB above "shooting sander" easy to bodge up from a few bits of scrap but I don't see it doing a 15º angle.

 

[marcros]

no, but the board could possibly achieve the angle, so you are working from above, with the perspex flat.

I don't know, just throwing an idea out there.

 

[smallprint]

I have to do many different sheets at many different mitres angles the 75° is only an example. It seems to me that sanding it would be too time consuming. And also I would then have to build lots of different shooting boards. Admittedly I would have to build different jigs if doing it on a saw, but really I think the table saw is the way to go..... but again just need to know which table saw people think is best.

 

[marcros]

ah ok. yep sanding looks to be a non starter.

 

[MikeJhn]

The more teeth on the blade the better the cut will be, establish the blade you will need arbor dia ect: and then look for the right saw bench/table, I would suggest checking the depth of cut available with each saw, the Proxxon only just meets your needs, but the reviews say its underpowered: https://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-fet ... eal-717740 you need approximately 16mm. The sliding jig using the mitre slots could be made adjustable with slotted quadrants at either end with wing nut clamps, I think the secret here is to cut above the table so you are cutting above the table insert i.e. build the jig with a small vertical piece against the blade you will then be cutting through the material and not on its edge, saying that and the 16mm already established you will probably need a cutting depth of 20mm minimum, most saws will accommodate this, you can always chemically polish the perspex after the cut.

Saying all the above there is a problem with cutting perspex in that it melts at a low temperature, its essential to get the revolutions of the blade against the feed rate correct to stop burning and balling of the material.

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

I have some experience cutting Polycarbonate so know a little about the problems that can be encountered.

Mike

 

[sunnybob]

I think this is a job for a router, either in table or freehand. It would still need a lot of jig making to keep the long piece stable though.

Have you researched getting a few sheets made to order in advance at the suppliers?

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Hi - if I were doing this I'd have a go at using handtools - a scaled-up mitre shooting board - perspex/acrylic is easy to cut with a sharp blade (especially with a little bit of wax or fairy liquid added to lubricate the cutting edge) and no real risk of burning/melting anything, as would be the case with motorised gear.

This sort of thing, but appropriately scaled/angled for your purpose: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAM7uBhrE1g

Cheers, W2S

 

[MikeJhn]

The OP has already said he does not want to do this by hand as there is too much of it.

 

[smallprint]

I think hand tools are just going to be too fidly for this.

Understood about getting the right blade.

Also about cutting depth.


So the question then is Einhell, Skil, Axminster, or Dewalt.

The proxon seemed out at the beginning anyway, I was just attracted to the idea that it has good precision and is geared towards model making.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

The OP has already said he does not want to do this by hand as there is too much of it.

Having re-read the OP my understanding of it is different from yours.

It would be quick and easy to do several metres, by hand, at one go. That said, I'd never stand in the way of anyone wanting to buy more tools!

Cheers, W2S

 

[Myfordman]

I feel the biggest problem will be the blade speed of a standard table saw being too fast and melting the perspex.
Possible solutions
1) A saw with a universal motor run from an external triac type speed controller.
2) A 3 phase saw run from an inverter at much reduced speed.
3) A saw that can take a large diameter blade but fitted with smallest diameter blade to drop the tooth speed.

All three options will allow running at normal speed for conventional wood working applications.

 

[Droogs]

What you may be looking for is something similar to the "Accuslice" for veneers on a bandsaw. Would think a bandsaw fitted with a linear guide rail and clamp system would be better for you