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Best method/technique in fixing tongue and groove cladding?

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Rob Cheetham

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I am currently building my own workshop in my garden. I am now at the cladding part. Before I start cladding I would like to know what the best method of fixing it to the wall would be.

I have built the worshop following mikes way on another thread so from inside I have the 11mm osb, 2x4 studs, kingspan breather membrane, counter batons and then the cladding.

I am going to be using 60mm stanless steel annular ring nails.

I have heard to just do one nail per stud near the bottom but I am being told by a family member to use glue aswell as using nails. Is this correct or should I just be ok with using the nails

I am using corner trim on the corners and around the door and window.

The cladding is brown treated 16mm

Any help on this would be great weather it is a method you use or link to youtube etc.

Thanks again :) (y)
 

Jameshow

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Definitely don't use glue as the cladding needs to move.
I just used one nail per stud and a row along the bottom stile.

Cheers James
 

Jacob

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What sort of T&G?
If horizontal has to be tongue up to avoid water traps.
 

Argus

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The last time that I did it I used galvanised concealed cladding clips, made for this out of thin metal sheet and formed to shape.

These are shaped to fit over the lower part of the groove section with a flap sticking out with a nail-hole, fixed as appropriate to the battens with nails; the tongue of the next board is inserted into the groove over the lip of the clip and the clips added to its groove side..... repeated ad infinitum. You may consider leaving an end board that is removable if you think that you may need to dismantle it in future without wrecking the whole thing in the process.

Never use glue!

Also, I'd avoid fixing directly onto a wall, allow some sort of small ventilation space at the rear to avoid unnecessary warping or moisture entrapment..... the gaps in battens will do.

Good luck...
 

Woody2Shoes

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+1 for defintely NO glue. Maximum of one nail per board, per batten (effectively all the expansion/contraction of the board is across its width).

Don't forget to leave a couple of mm gap (you could maybe use a couple of 2p coins as spacers) between each board (i.e. don't make the tongue go all the way into the groove - so they can both contract and expand freely, with the t&g keeping the gap filled at all times). Don't forget to put finish/paint on the tongue beforehand to avoid 'grinning' as boards shrink. Also don't forget ventilation (I think Mike's thread covers that).

PS you obviously will want to stagger butt joints between boards - all joints over a batten, ideally with board ends treated.
 

Rob Cheetham

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+1 for defintely NO glue. Maximum of one nail per board, per batten (effectively all the expansion/contraction of the board is across its width).

Don't forget to leave a couple of mm gap (you could maybe use a couple of 2p coins as spacers) between each board (i.e. don't make the tongue go all the way into the groove - so they can both contract and expand freely, with the t&g keeping the gap filled at all times). Don't forget to put finish/paint on the tongue beforehand to avoid 'grinning' as boards shrink. Also don't forget ventilation (I think Mike's thread covers that).

PS you obviously will want to stagger butt joints between boards - all joints over a batten, ideally with board ends treated.
What is this grinning you mention. What exactly should I be putting on the tongue. Didnt know I should be doing this. Thank you for the info
 

RobinBHM

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What is this grinning you mention. What exactly should I be putting on the tongue. Didnt know I should be doing this. Thank you for the info
Grinning is where the cladding shrinks showing bare, pale wood.

I strongly recommend treating the cladding before it goes on, including the back, edges and ends.
 
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