Best glue - beginner needs advice

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Banjopicker

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Corsham, Wilts.
I'm feeling a bit out of my depth here, being a complete beginner who rashly decided to make a pair of toy chests for my sons. They're the ones in the Stanley Book of Woodwork, if anyone has that book, with three raised panels on the front and one at each end. About 3 ft by 1.5 ft, with a hinged lid, plus a plinth. Except that I've made them out of some lovely (expensive!) ash, which I don't want to ruin.

I'm now looking at finishing the panels in hardwax oil (with the rails and stiles not yet cleaned up), so that any panel shrinkage won't reveal an unfinished edge, and then glueing up.

I'm wondering about what glue to use for the VERY less-than-perfect M+T joints. They seemed good at first, but repeated dry assemblies and re-assemblies have loosened them to the point where, without the panels in place, I can't pick up the skeleton without it falling apart. Should I use a glue that's a bit gap filling, or try to beef up the tenons ? I thought that maybe by slapping some wood shavings and PVA on the tenons, I could make a better fit... Indeed, just how important is it to make the tenon fit tightly inside the mortice, given that the shoulders are square and neat ?

All advice very gratefully received !

- Bernie
 
I am reliably informed that slithers of wood work well.

.or you can try hidden wedges (not sure of real name) in the end of the tennons but once assembled the pieces will not come apart again.

The basic idea is that the further in that the tennon & wedge go in the more the wedge is pushed into it by the end of the mortice & therefore the more the tennon is forced part on either side of the wedge & widens it into the mortice.

I hope this helps.
 
+ 1 for Cascamite (good gap filler and very strong) with and pieces of veneer but seeing as that is your first job, you may not have any, pm me and I will send you some bits in an envelope to do what you need.

Put a spot of glue in the centre (top and bottom) of your panels when fitting then they won't move to one side only.

Don't for any reason, be persuaded to use PU glue, it may be suggested to you at the builders merchant, if you haven't used it before you will get in an awful mess.

Andy
 
You could try liquid hide glue. Its gap filling and you can reverse it if it goes wrong. Plus its a bit gentler on the edges of your tools when its dry.
Owen
 
Wow guys ! As some of you noticed, that was my first post. You’re a fine friendly lot round here – thanks for making me feel welcome !

Lesson Number One – the only reason my tenons got loose was because I assembled them and took them apart too many times, sometimes for little reason other than to look at my handiwork and feel satisfied and smug! That’s taught me….

Will do as you suggest with the glue.

Andy – it seems I can’t PM you until I’ve made 3 posts. That should happen in the next few days, and then I’ll be in touch.

- Bernie
 
Bernie, just make another post on this thread and you are away- write anything!
 
Newbie_Neil":3u9wg7f2 said:
Hi Bernie,

Welcome to the forum.

Cascamite is an excellent gap filling glue.

Thanks,
Neil

Love cascamite/one shot... Good for inside and outside use :D
 
Cascamite is duly on order. Thanks guys! It also has the advantage of being water based, so it will do for biscuit joints when I come to do the lid and the mitre joints on the plinth. (I'll be in right nervous tizzy when I come to do that in a couple of weeks time, so expect more pleas for advice!)

Andy - I'll pm you about the veneer bits.

- Bernie
 

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