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Melzy

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Hello!!

I'm making a bookcase and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations of what to finish it with? Its made from oak and I would like it to look natural in colour as can be!.....?? :duno:
 

9fingers

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Osmo polyx oil is good or just Danish oil which is easier to find and cheaper if that is an issue.
Chestnut have a stand at most shows and do a good range of finishes too.

Bob
Who is just trying to be helpful :lol:
 

andersonec

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Oil and wax would be my choice too, there are various oils on the market, Danish oilo Finishing oil etc. Plus a coat of wax to give it a silky feel. Then there are the varnishes, If you have a look at the Axminster site there is a Polyvine wax varnish or you could just wax it. The thing about wax alone is that it is easy to repair, simply go over it again, and with it being a book case it wouldn't be taking a lot of rough handling.

This link was posted on here before, http://www.startwoodworking.com/getting ... season-one scroll down on the right side of the small video screen, they mention steel wool but this shouldn't be used with oak.
 

Lord Kitchener

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What sort of finish do you want, matt, shiny, something in between? It's a separate issue from colour.
 

Melzy

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9fingers":35nvtrp8 said:
Osmo polyx oil is good or just Danish oil which is easier to find and cheaper if that is an issue.
Chestnut have a stand at most shows and do a good range of finishes too.

Bob
Who is just trying to be helpful :lol:

Thank you Bob!! Ahh i feel bad now!!! :oops: I know you were trying to help poppet!! :D
 

Melzy

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andersonec":1flp619j said:
Oil and wax would be my choice too, there are various oils on the market, Danish oilo Finishing oil etc. Plus a coat of wax to give it a silky feel. Then there are the varnishes, If you have a look at the Axminster site there is a Polyvine wax varnish or you could just wax it. The thing about wax alone is that it is easy to repair, simply go over it again, and with it being a book case it wouldn't be taking a lot of rough handling.

This link was posted on here before, http://www.startwoodworking.com/getting ... season-one scroll down on the right side of the small video screen, they mention steel wool but this shouldn't be used with oak.

Thank you!!

ah!! so i could put the oil on first then use a wax?! Best of both!! I think i would go for one of those 2 {or both} rather than a varnish. Thatnks for the post, I shall check it out!! :mrgreen:
 

Melzy

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Lord Kitchener":24xu20hj said:
What sort of finish do you want, matt, shiny, something in between? It's a separate issue from colour.

Urrm...I think something in between!! \:D/
 

Melzy

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andersonec":uspnxmtk said:
Oil and wax would be my choice too, there are various oils on the market, Danish oilo Finishing oil etc. Plus a coat of wax to give it a silky feel. Then there are the varnishes, If you have a look at the Axminster site there is a Polyvine wax varnish or you could just wax it. The thing about wax alone is that it is easy to repair, simply go over it again, and with it being a book case it wouldn't be taking a lot of rough handling.

This link was posted on here before, http://www.startwoodworking.com/getting ... season-one scroll down on the right side of the small video screen, they mention steel wool but this shouldn't be used with oak.

Just checked out that site and it was very helpful!! Thanks!! :lol:
 

woodbloke

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Osmo Poly-X is the stuff I use most of the time now, finished off with a coat of wax. The stuff is easy to apply (just two very thin brush coats...emphasize the 'thin') and then wax applied with a grey Webrax (don't use wire wool on oak) followed by a good polish with a soft duster - Rob
 

MickCheese

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woodbloke":1j7sv6e7 said:
Osmo Poly-X is the stuff I use most of the time now, finished off with a coat of wax. The stuff is easy to apply (just two very thin brush coats...emphasize the 'thin') and then wax applied with a grey Webrax (don't use wire wool on oak) followed by a good polish with a soft duster - Rob
Rob

I have just bought a tin of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil from Axminster which I think is similar to the above, I intend to use it on oak.

Can I just ask, once you brush it on do you wipe it off or just leave it? And, before the second coat do you sand? I have seen some conflicting advice.

Mick
 

RogerM

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Streepips":2py4ad88 said:
I would brush on a coat of shellac, denib it and finish with wax.
+1 . I have used both this and Osmo PolyX and have been happy with both.

When using the Osmo, I used 2 coats and then a wax polish over. However, I recently did a test to compare this with Chestnut Shellac sanding sealer with Chestnut microcrystalline wax over. This gives a slightly paler, less yellow, finish than the Osmo which was what I was looking for. I would be happy with either though.

I would avoid varnish like the plague!!
 

woodbloke

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MickCheese":2bcirr4m said:
woodbloke":2bcirr4m said:
Osmo Poly-X is the stuff I use most of the time now, finished off with a coat of wax. The stuff is easy to apply (just two very thin brush coats...emphasize the 'thin') and then wax applied with a grey Webrax (don't use wire wool on oak) followed by a good polish with a soft duster - Rob
Rob

I have just bought a tin of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil from Axminster which I think is similar to the above, I intend to use it on oak.

Can I just ask, once you brush it on do you wipe it off or just leave it? And, before the second coat do you sand? I have seen some conflicting advice.

Mick
Mick, I've used the Fiddes as well from Ax and it's very similar to the Osmo. Two thin brush coats are all that's needed, leave overnight (ideally) and de-nib 'twixt coats with a bit of worn 320g...then wax. The Fiddes is a satin finish but the Osmo is available in matt which I prefer, but as ever, it's horses for dooberies! :lol: - Rob
 

Mr T

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Hi

I find Finney's hardwax oil to be good, probably similar to Osmo. I apply liberally with a rag then wipe off any surplus that may be left after 10 mins. Recently I have, on the second and third coats, rubbed with the grain with a grey webrax before rubbing off the surplus. THis gives an excellent finish after buffing with 2000, 4000 abralon and white webrax.

Chris
 

MickCheese

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Thanks Rob / Chris.

I am just getting to the finishing of a small oak chest of drawers that I plan to use for my marking tools and maybe some chisels.

Agonising over feet at the moment. I have turned some small bun feet from mahogany but I am not convinced with the colour, maybe should re-do them in oak.

Will post some pictures once completed.

Your help has been just what I needed as I was getting a little stressed over finishing it.

Mick
 

woodbloke

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MickCheese":2orhlnyk said:
... I have turned some small bun feet from mahogany but I am not convinced with the colour, maybe should re-do them in oak.
If in doubt, leave it out :) The feet are usually attached with screws, so I'd make some in both and stand the unit on them and see what you think...they're easy enough to remove if they don't look right. I had the same issue with a box I made recently where it was standing on some square brass feet. The consensus of opinion when I posted the final pics was that the box looked better without them...so they came off :mrgreen: - Rob
 

Melzy

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andersonec":1em0otxf said:
Oil and wax would be my choice too, there are various oils on the market, Danish oilo Finishing oil etc. Plus a coat of wax to give it a silky feel. Then there are the varnishes, If you have a look at the Axminster site there is a Polyvine wax varnish or you could just wax it. The thing about wax alone is that it is easy to repair, simply go over it again, and with it being a book case it wouldn't be taking a lot of rough handling.

This link was posted on here before, http://www.startwoodworking.com/getting ... season-one scroll down on the right side of the small video screen, they mention steel wool but this shouldn't be used with oak.
Ive watched this video but was wondering abut the abrasive pads...It american and their colour code of pads is probably different?...which pads are best to use for this procedure??
:roll:
 
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