Bench grinder modifications...toolrest

[Ttrees]

Hello folks
Having recently acquired an 8" bench grinder I want to make up a toolrest for it.
I read a recent post on this, but can't find it since.

I just wrote a long post and changed my mind half way through, and decided this wolverine design is the best (pictured below)
Rob Cosman shows it off in this video .. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIux8MRmu6E
I found I need the grinder to be raised higher to allow for long chisels anyway, so the ply base is fine with me.

Only planning to have a toolrest set for grinding primary bevels on plane and chisel irons I have for the moment.
I have a lathe, and one day years from now I may wish to make a jig for sharpening various turning tools.
I think the wolverine has other attachments for this purpose.

So I think I will start on the top plate, and weld a little tab/mount on it for the Bristol lever.
The only thing that seems annoying is, the plate looks to be too long for small chisels.
I'm gonna make mine shorter.

Now waiting for Jacob to tell me all I need is a round bar

Looking forward to hearing opinions and seeing your setup....probably a bit late though as
I'm going digging for parts shortly.
I know I'll be just about to post it, and somebody will show off a much better idea :roll:

Thanks folks
Tom

 

[Ttrees]

Howdy folks
Just about found some suitable stock and started at it this morning
I found another post on a home made version of the wolverine jig, so that was a nice bit of encouragement
Look up .... wolverine jig workshop addict in images.

Nearly ready to start welding
I will be making one jig and two mounts so I can switch them ...
unfortunately I don't have anymore of the square bar stock
No worries, I only wanted one anyway.


Tom

 

[custard]

I think a good tool rest is important, doubly so if you're only an occasional user. The supplied tool rests on many grinders really aren't great, they can't be locked off solid and they often creep in use, the platform is cheap pressed steel and none too flat, or they don't sit square to the wheel.

However, a lot of the third party ones come with problems too.

The one you show above looks like the platform is awfully big, so much so that the new chisel in the photo only just fits on, so it wouldn't work with butt chisels or chisels that have worn down a bit. Personally I like to grip the tool below the rest, or at the very least have a decent grip on the sides of the blade, so a platform that big wouldn't work for me with block plane irons or a myriad of shorter blades.

Just my 2p's worth, if that rest works for you then all's well.

 

[Ttrees]

Thanks Custard, I was thinking the same
I searched for my shortest chisel to get a feel for how big the plate is.
I'm probably going to grind a wee bit off the plate when I get to it
Thanks for your input
Tom

 

[Ttrees]

Hello again
Got around to doing some metalwork again and finished this off.
Pleased overall, I had just enough box metal for the job, I was worrying that I didn't have enough.
I was thinking that the lock screws wasn't needed, and a wedge under the arm was enough...
Not so! This thing vibrates like hell, I may need to make foot pads in the future.

I could have left some more meat on the plate, to have it closer to the edge for heat dissipation, when grinding primary bevels
on chisel and plane irons, or ...
I could have had the mounting bracket positioned back even farther from the center...as it does not get in the way.

Thanks for reading
Tom

 

[Ttrees]

Hello again,
I decided to make an upgrade to the plate, as it was not suitable for spokeshave blades and similar things...
I think its just about centered ok, for grinding thin metal to get a square edge...
See Bill Carters blunt chisel method, or Alan Carruth's scrapers to see the usefulness.
I think my rest could be a hint lower, but I'm not positive where is most useful yet ???
I can always inset those foot pads into the ply or shim them up anyway if I decide to alter its height.

Hope this is useful for somebody
Thanks
Tom

 

[CHJ]

Think you really need to give some thought to the type of wheels you have fitted to that grinder, I'd consider those on the machine as general metal butchering grade rather than for any finesse if shaping and sharpening cutting edges.

White Oxide at lest, Pink or Blue ceramic for faster cooler cuts.

 

[Ttrees]

Yes Chas, I will defiantly get a good wheel in the future.
I bought a lathe a while ago, so this was a good reason for copying the wolverine design :lol:

I will be making the long attachment for it in a while, once I get the lathe properly sorted.
(its a harbor freight generic SIP lathe, I believe you had the Axi perform shade)
I will need to do some work to the tailstock mainly, but probably the headstock too, to make it accurate and solid.
Once I get that done, I will buy the wheel.

I am hoping to build some furniture mainly, so this is only for grinding primary bevels on the fly, as I dont have a great
space, (or any space ) for the grinder yet...

Just turned a front knob for a Record no.5 and it was quite satisfying ...my lathe, chisels, and skills could do with some
work yet.
It certainly makes it easier to drill a straight hole into something close to symmetrical, still 'aint foolproof though.
Before, I found this very difficult to do with handles that were hand chiseled/shaped, and when you turned the tool you just made...
it shows up the wild error,
Glad to have a lathe now.
Thanks

Just got another lovely Stanley 5 1/2 in the post
I must have a play with it

Tom