Behold, the Speed Tenon...

[chippy1970]

I have used the trenching feature on a SCMS and this technique to make half lap joints, it saves cleaning it all up with a chisel.

Me too i've always done trenching that way on my Makita . In fact i've always wanted to find a way to automatically move the timber along after every cut when you are trenching on a mitre saw it does get quite monotonous. Just the other week I had to cut about 50 half lap joints in some 4 x 2 wall plates

 

[condeesteso]

Call that dangerous? Not even close mate. Tedious yes... I reckon the Tsaw lot are running out of ideas.

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

I have used the trenching feature on a SCMS and this technique to make half lap joints, it saves cleaning it all up with a chisel.

Me too i've always done trenching that way on my Makita . In fact i've always wanted to find a way to automatically move the timber along after every cut when you are trenching on a mitre saw it does get quite monotonous. Just the other week I had to cut about 50 half lap joints in some 4 x 2 wall plates

Waxing the fence and table helps as it stop that annoying jilt when it will not move a tiny bit but when does its moves to far due to the force.

 

[Chems]

Just had another look at the video and there are some differences between that way and the way I do it. In essence they are very similar methods, but I prefer mine, even though it is probably slower.
Firstly, I do not use a slot mitre gauge for this. Or for anything else come to that. I loath the things! Just a personal quirk, maight be OK for cutting firewood but not my work oieces thank you.
I use a sliding table. much more control and smoother. Sliding beam table to be precise. ( and it is)
The video shows a cut at the shoulder line then sideways cuts to take arcs out of the timber across to the end of the tenon.
I make the shoulder cut, ( same first cut) then position the work piece in stages a distance of 1/4 or 1/2" further away from the fence ( hard or soft wood. larger or smaller shoulders to make determine this)) in steps to make further parallel cuts to the end of the tenon then repeat on the other side. THEN I will either use the sidways method as shown just clean up or more usually ( and faster) just clean up with a paring chisel.On smaller tenons you can almost rub the waste off with your thumb at this stage before you chisel,. So the sideways pressure on a blade will be negligible.
Also, if I do clean up with the sideways cut, unlike the video I cut/slide in both direction, towards and away from the fence alternately as I move the work slowly forwards. . He actually wastes a move by sliding the piece sideways and not taking a cut!
I do not think a guard is necessary the way I do it, the blade is hardly above the table surface and using the sliding table fence with a toggle clamp means your hands do not need to be anywhere near the action. For those that want it, a guard would be easy to rig up, even a perspex one if you want to work to pencil lines etc.

Yes I've done it that way too many times, the whacking off the bits is the fun part. Did it a lot before the domino. I want to try this sliding it method thou vs the other method because he seems to get much cleaner faces than I ever have straight from the saw.

 

[chippy1970]

I have used the trenching feature on a SCMS and this technique to make half lap joints, it saves cleaning it all up with a chisel.

Me too i've always done trenching that way on my Makita . In fact i've always wanted to find a way to automatically move the timber along after every cut when you are trenching on a mitre saw it does get quite monotonous. Just the other week I had to cut about 50 half lap joints in some 4 x 2 wall plates

Waxing the fence and table helps as it stop that annoying jilt when it will not move a tiny bit but when does its moves to far due to the force.

Exactly what I did my Makita is on a Metabo stand with extensions on either side , I ended up rubbing wax all over the supports. It wore off quickly as I was cutting tanalised 4 x 2.

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

Exactly what I did my Makita is on a Metabo stand with extensions on either side , I ended up rubbing wax all over the supports. It wore off quickly as I was cutting tanalised 4 x 2.

What you need is one of them auto feeder from a spindle moulder, operated by foot pedal.

 

[Chems]

I tried this out at the weekend, it wasn't a tenon but a half lap joint.

The resulting surface was very smooth but my main concern was the lack of visibility, you sort of have to go on sound once you can't see because you don't want to be to aggressive but as you can't see once the blades under the tenon its hard to judge and I found myself getting halfway through and just reverting to standard dado it out technique and running it from side to side to smooth it out once done.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I have to say, I don't really understand why we are still discussing this! It's not something we should be encouraging when there are so many other, better, quicker and above all, safer ways of doing it.
S

 

[thecoder]

Tried it today and I was quite impressed with the results

 

[Chems]

I have to say, I don't really understand why we are still discussing this! It's not something we should be encouraging when there are so many other, better, quicker and above all, safer ways of doing it.
S

If we don't discuss things, we may as well not have a forum!

I think the reality is, its no more un-safe than any table saw operation, there is the guard removal, but a suva guard solves this. Its just not the way I'd choose to do a lot of tenons.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Fair enough, on the discussion point.
But promoting a technique which deliberately removes the guard just sends out all the wrong messages, it seems to me.
Those 30 guys who ended up in ER today in the USA alone never thought it would happen to them.
S

 

[Lord Kitchener]

Fair enough, on the discussion point.
But promoting a technique which deliberately removes the guard just sends out all the wrong messages, it seems to me.
Those 30 guys who ended up in ER today in the USA alone never thought it would happen to them.
S

Sooner or later one would think that the owner of a website that shows unguarded saws will get sued. Presumably then they will stop being so daft.

 

[custard]

[/quote]Sooner or later one would think that the owner of a website that shows unguarded saws will get sued. Presumably then they will stop being so daft.[/quote]

I've worked for an American company for twenty years. We have regular lectures about avoiding sexism and racism in the work place, I have to go to absurd lengths to demonstrate that I'm not bribing government officials in third world countries, and at Christmas parties in the US I've seen a guy walk around the venue every twenty minutes with a sign saying "drink responsibly".

At the same time you see videos virtually promoting the use of unguarded woodworking machinery. And it doesn't end there...I was once at a stag do in Las Vegas and we went to a firing range, despite the fact that most of us were obviously half cut, the attendant threw (and I mean threw) half a dozen loaded machine guns to us and without any training or instruction pointed us vaguely in the direction of the range!

Madness!

 

[Chems]

Fair enough, on the discussion point.
But promoting a technique which deliberately removes the guard just sends out all the wrong messages, it seems to me.
Those 30 guys who ended up in ER today in the USA alone never thought it would happen to them.
S

Sooner or later one would think that the owner of a website that shows unguarded saws will get sued. Presumably then they will stop being so daft.

I think this thing about the guards is probably why people get injured. A lot of firefighters, and probably people in other professions where they were PPE get lured into a false sense of security because they've put on all their safety kit. They seem to think they are now super man and thus do things they wouldn't normally do.

I see the guard as something to stop smaller pieces flying up from the saw in routine cutting, as a first line of defence infront of my safety specs.

If the wood is getting cut then there's enough blade to do me an injury, so guard or not the potential is still the same, the guard is by no means in my mind a protection from me being cut by the blade, if I were to clumsily push my hand into the guard, the saw will just cut through the guard and then my hand just the same as if the guard wasn't on.

 

[Lord Kitchener]

If the wood is getting cut then there's enough blade to do me an injury, so guard or not the potential is still the same, the guard is by no means in my mind a protection from me being cut by the blade, if I were to clumsily push my hand into the guard, the saw will just cut through the guard and then my hand just the same as if the guard wasn't on.

First, if the guard was so flimsy and badly designed as to allow that, it would never-the-less gove you an extra second or two to get your hand away fromt here, my second point doesn't work with a flimsy guard, but would work with a proper one, and it's that it's there for that one moment in a million when your attention wanders, or you faint, or you slip and fall, or etc etc.

 

[Steve Maskery]

LK
=D> =D> =D>
S

 

[kirkpoore1]

At the same time you see videos virtually promoting the use of unguarded woodworking machinery. And it doesn't end there...I was once at a stag do in Las Vegas and we went to a firing range, despite the fact that most of us were obviously half cut, the attendant threw (and I mean threw) half a dozen loaded machine guns to us and without any training or instruction pointed us vaguely in the direction of the range!

Madness!

Haven't you ever heard of the National Tablesaw Association? They're the second most powerful lobby in Washington, right after the National Rifle Association! Just remember, tablesaws don't cut off fingers, fingers cut off themselves!

Anon, not entirely kidding...

 

[thecoder]

I have to say, I don't really understand why we are still discussing this! It's not something we should be encouraging when there are so many other, better, quicker and above all, safer ways of doing it.
S

If we don't discuss things, we may as well not have a forum!.

Absolutely right Chems ! I was of the understanding that was the purpose of a forum. To discuss things I mean..

 

[thecoder]

Sooner or later one would think that the owner of a website that shows unguarded saws will get sued. Presumably then they will stop being so daft.[/quote]

I've worked for an American company for twenty years. We have regular lectures about avoiding sexism and racism in the work place, I have to go to absurd lengths to demonstrate that I'm not bribing government officials in third world countries, and at Christmas parties in the US I've seen a guy walk around the venue every twenty minutes with a sign saying "drink responsibly".

At the same time you see videos virtually promoting the use of unguarded woodworking machinery. And it doesn't end there...I was once at a stag do in Las Vegas and we went to a firing range, despite the fact that most of us were obviously half cut, the attendant threw (and I mean threw) half a dozen loaded machine guns to us and without any training or instruction pointed us vaguely in the direction of the range!

Madness![/quote]

Would love to go to one of those stag does ...

 

[Chems]

your hand away from there,

If your fingers are anywhere close enough to the blade that this could happen, your doing it wrong.

I use the guard that came with my saw, its an SIP its just plastic, the saw would nom it up no problem. I think Karl posted here pictures of his metal guard and what happened when that hit the saw.