Bandsaw..Straight Cutting

[SteveF]

Hi All

I am new to a bandsaw and am struggling a bit
I have used table saws etc and never had an issue following\ keeping tight to the fence
The bandsaw however seems to easy to let you drift off fence
do you use a featheredge...is it just practice...or am I missing something ?

Steve

Edit: the saw blade cuts straight , it is just me not being capable

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

The single most important aid to straight cutting is a decent blade (assuming your blade guides and tension are set correctly)

What blade are you using? If its the original manufacturers, throw it away and buy one from Ian at Tuffsaws. Call him and discuss your needs ie what you're cutting and he'll pick the right on for you. It will cost around £12. He is brilliant.

http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/

 

[Grahamshed]

What you are describing sounds like bandsaw drift. Controlled by position of the blade on the wheels and guidbush positioning, Steve Maskery has a brilliant DVD about it and there are several videos on youtube.

 

[CHJ]

Yes its very easy to let the stock move away from the fence, the fact that the blade is so flexible is an aid to allowing this to happen.

With critical pieces I use as much side pressure as forward, I guess if it's parallel stock a feather edge would be the ideal, 99% of mine is rough dimensioned so has to be firm hand controlled push block.

The alternate is to sledge it, that way the stock is held on constant line and only errors in blade performance influence cut line.

When re-sawing prepared stock I just provide the side pressure to the fence.

 

[carlb40]

Steve have you adjusted the fence for the drift angle?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRg3hp-4evE

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I would be careful with that advice. Many schools say that you shouldn't set the fence for the drift angle as a good blade well set up will cut straight. I've created 1mm veneers straight off the fence when setup right so I know from personal experience it can be done. I will admit that sometimes (particularly) with a worn blade I cant seem to control a straight cut. I usually mark the line and then freehand it and then plane off the lumps and marks. But if the blade is new and the saw set up properly it will cut straight, especially 1/2" blades and bigger

 

[CHJ]

Steve have you adjusted the fence for the drift angle?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRg3hp-4evE

But why live with drift angle, as that's only an error imparted by poor blade set or worn blade (or bad machine setup) I personally would only consider it in the worst case scenario of not having a new good blade to hand.
Setting fence at an angle precludes any reasonably accurate cutting associated with table mitre slots.

 

[carlb40]

Ta chaps, i stand corrected.

 

[CHJ]

Ta chaps, i stand corrected.

It's not a correction as such only an observation from a reasonable amount of bandsaw use, the swinging of the fence is an oft quoted 'fix' but it is really just ignoring the basic problem and working round it not fixing it. Not very helpful at all to someone new to bandsaws.
As soon as you change blades it will inevitable give you the frustration of off-line cuts once again and the need to do trial cuts and reset.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

+1 to Chas's comment Carl

 

[RogerS]

The single most important aid to straight cutting is a decent blade (assuming your blade guides and tension are set correctly)

..../

And the second (some would say first!) most important aid is Steve Maskery's bandsaw DVD.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Good advice

 

[John15]

I couldn't believe the improvement I got by throwing away the blade that came with the saw and fitting a new one.
John

 

[Steve Maskery]

Thanks for the plugs, chaps!

Steve, bandsaw setup is not difficult but there several things that need to be set right and they need to be done in the right order. As you have found, getting a good blade makes the world of difference, but you will only get the best out of it if it is set up correctly. That means tension, tracking, blade guides and thrust bearing.

As Chas has pointed out, although you can compensate for drift by skewing the fence, it only masks the problem and means that you cannot do any cross-cutting accurately using the mitre gauge or use any mitre-slot-mounted jigs. It is a very second-best solution.

Much better is to learn how to eliminate drift altogether. Not only will it feel satisfying, it means you will be much more productive with your machine.

Way to go!
S

 

[SteveF]

The single most important aid to straight cutting is a decent blade (assuming your blade guides and tension are set correctly)

What blade are you using? If its the original manufacturers, throw it away and buy one from Ian at Tuffsaws. Call him and discuss your needs ie what you're cutting and he'll pick the right on for you. It will cost around £12. He is brilliant.

http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/

all ordered

i think it is more my inabilty to hold against fence
maybe a featheredge and Steve's DVD

Steve

 

[Steve Maskery]

i think it is more my inabilty to hold against fence
Steve

I doubt it. If you have drift you will never win just by pressure, because the machine is stronger than you are. All that will happen is that the blade gets pulled in to the fence and the machine will grind to a halt. You will still have a wonky cut.

maybe a featheredge and Steve's DVD

Steve

That sounds like a good idea!
S

 

[CHJ]

......I have used table saws etc and never had an issue following\ keeping tight to the fence
The bandsaw however seems to easy to let you drift off fence
do you use a featheredge...is it just practice...or am I missing something ?

Steve

Edit: the saw blade cuts straight , it is just me not being capable

I think references to blade drift are off the mark for what the OP is describing.
I read his experience as the fact that the piece being cut readily moves away from the fence.
The narrow width and limited lateral resistance of a bandsaw blade does little to keep a piece on track, a circular saw, although ideally not binding along its blade due to the width of the kerf and the riving knife does in effect prevent all but the odd mm of lifting away from the fence.

 

[rspsteve]

Silly question...did you square/level up the table when you put the saw together?

Steve

 

[SteveF]

CHJ is correct

everything is square and true
I can cut a few mm off the length of a 4 x 2 by eye and it is straight, without using the fence
i just cant seem to follow the fence

Steve

 

[Steve Maskery]

I think references to blade drift are off the mark for what the OP is describing.
I read his experience as the fact that the piece being cut readily moves away from the fence.

I don't, Chas, I think that it is classic drift. The blade is cutting to the left and as it is resisting being pulled to the left, it is pulling the workpiece to the right instead.

S