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bandsaw resawing guide

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srs

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I own a Scheppach Basato 5 band saw which I'm very happy with, much better than the old Draper bench top jobbie. I would like to do so resawing of planks on it, till now I have only done wood that is 2-3" thick, but I have the need now for something nearer 10", I have had a scout around the net and the only resawing guides / jigs I can find look like this http://tnvalleywoodclub.org/Archives/2002/images/374_1_3.gif. Is this the best sort of idea and if so should I make the guide end taller, if so whats your suggestion on hight?

Or, do you have any other jigs / ideas that you could suggest that would aid resawing of plants this thick?


Cheers
Simon
 

MikeG.

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I'm not sure I see the need for a fancy guide. I regularly re-saw some quite big stuff, and only use an over-tall fence. As long as you have 2 reference faces to the timber which are flat and at 90 degrees then your only job is to feed the work through against the fence.

........or am I missing something?

Mike
 

srs

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I hope not, as you method sounds nice and simple.

Simon
 

woodbloke

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Agree with Mike here. I'd only add that you need to ensure a new (or newish) coarse (3 or 4 tpi) skip or hook blade tooth in the saw that hasn't been used for cutting curves. It ought to be less than the maximum stated width of the saw in order to tension it correctly, thus if the saw gumf states that 1" is the widest blade, then fit a 3/4" HTH - Rob
 

OPJ

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Also, check that the fence is set parallel to the cutting line of the saw. To find the angle of 'blade drift', scribe a pencil line parallel to a straight-edged scrap of MDF (at least the table's length). Follow this line as best as you can with the saw, stopping at about halfway. Clamp it in place (or, draw a line on your machine table) and slide the fence up to this to check. If necessary, adjust it.
 

Steve Maskery

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I do use a single-point fence on my Basato, but it's about120mm tall, not 50.

The advantage of a single-pointer is that you can steer the cut.

My single-point fence is just two pieces of 18mm MDF joined like a stubby T. The long arms are clamped to the rip fence and the short body is pointing towards the blade. It works perfectly and, much as I love jigs, I don't see the need for anything as fancy - and low - as the illustration in your link.

CHeers
Steve
 

Pete Howlett

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Look at the video closely - It's a 2" block of wood - fingers no where near the blade and because I know this timber I can judge the feed rate and know it isn't going to catch, not with all that swirl in the burr!

35 years of experience resawing and have never caught my finger. Bench saw... now that's another story altogether!
 

motownmartin

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Pete Howlett":350od05c said:
Look at the video closely - It's a 2" block of wood - fingers no where near the blade and because I know this timber I can judge the feed rate and know it isn't going to catch, not with all that swirl in the burr!

35 years of experience resawing and have never caught my finger. Bench saw... now that's another story altogether!
I wasn't having a go at you Pete, it just makes me cringe, its like the bloke speeding along the motorway on his mobile phone saying 'I've never had an accident' but the chances are that its more likely to happen to him, so say statistics :(
 

Pete Howlett

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Sorry Martin but this comment get's made so many times.

I am very careful with my bandsaw and it's use. I also take a lot of time getting the setup right and always use a new blade for any resawing session. I think if you follow these guidelines you'll only be using a pushblock when it gets down to 1/22 thickness. However, because of yours and others' comments I am going to reshoot this video using a push block so thanks for the comments - it's clearly an issue with most people :wink:
 

Shakespeare

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As a new owner of a new Band Saw, these jigs etc, that I've just watched on You Tube, are really a project that I could do with making, just for the logs etc, that I'll be using. These kind of things I could watch all day, so thanks lads, for your input to these pages, great


Baz
 

Benchwayze

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I like to watch Frank Klausz's video on dovetailing a drawer; and the way he re-saws drawer linings. (admittedly only in softwood, and not exactly 'real- veneer'.)

He uses no fence. Just another board pushed end on against the piece he is sawing.

Mind you, in his 'tools' DVD, he also uses a chisel like a penknife to chamfer and square the end grain of a piece of 25mm square mahogany. I tried that. It doesn't take long to master, but you need one wicked-sharp chisel! He has some quirky ways in his shop!



:)
 

ByronBlack

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I'm with pete on this one. I watched the video and found nothing worrying about it all. I've regularly re-sawed like this and have never found a need for a push block unless i'm doing either large or tiny pieces..

I'm enjoying your videos Pete. I like the 'sharp' guitar, very cool.
 

joesoap

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Shakespeare":1oxt85qv said:
As a new owner of a new Band Saw, these jigs etc, that I've just watched on You Tube, are really a project that I could do with making, just for the logs etc, that I'll be using. These kind of things I could watch all day, so thanks lads, for your input to these pages, great


Baz
Hear Hear !!!
 

Benchwayze

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AOL's useless browser won't even show the 'hand' over a link. I have to use Firefox, but the word 'Here' isn't any use for the search bar!

:)
 

joesoap

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Benchwayze":2lu25h09 said:
I like to watch Frank Klausz's video on dovetailing a drawer; and the way he re-saws drawer linings. (admittedly only in softwood, and not exactly 'real- veneer'.)

He uses no fence. Just another board pushed end on against the piece he is sawing.

Mind you, in his 'tools' DVD, he also uses a chisel like a penknife to chamfer and square the end grain of a piece of 25mm square mahogany. I tried that. It doesn't take long to master, but you need one wicked-sharp chisel! He has some quirky ways in his shop!
Benchy
Give's a link to that Klauzes's video please . Cheers



:)
 
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