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Graeme48

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Afternoon all. I'm looking for some advice on repairing an old (early 90's) Poolewood 1603N bandsaw. This has a 16" throat and 9" depth of cut, cast iron frame and table, 1HP motor and generally been a good machine for my needs. Unfortunately, the cheapo cast blade tensioner and tracking unit has now broken in two; I doubt that there will be any spares available and I'm not sure about the safety aspect of repairing this part with something like J-B Weld metal epoxy.

Does anyone have any suggestions, or am I having an early Christmas and new bandsaw.

Thanks in advance for any advice
 

Ttrees

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Can you give us a picture of the broken cast component?
Could it have had a knock before you got it, if secondhand?
Or is the casting rubbish, so much so that a brazed repair might not be worth the trouble.
I'm not experienced with cast iron, but would think taking a flap disc to remove the paint might not be such a bad idea, if you intend to fix it as your first option.
Even a rough going over to see if there's any possible casting flaws first.
Depending on how much your time is worth I suppose, be nicer for the fixer though
to have this done for them.
Failing that...
Presuming it can be dismounted and the part made from mild steel plate if you wished to get one fabricated either?

A picture might be best to get the best advice and all options.
Tom
 

Graeme48

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Wow! Thanks for the super quick replies. I am attaching two photos of the blade tensioner/wheel tracking assembly as it came off the lathe (complete with rear bearing from the upper wheel.
The damaged section is the tongue that operates the wheel tracking and as you might be able to see, I have already applied some J-B Weld to the break. My concern is that this element will always be under pressure from the adjuster at the point of maximum leverage and it doesnt seem a particularly safe solution.
Casting seems to be a fairly weak Taiwanese alloy.
Graeme
 

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Ttrees

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Can you disassemble the part further?
I wouldn't think that JB weld fix would be worth a damaged blade.

How is the pivoting component captured to that plate?
Might be easier to get an idea on how to tackle making another that way.
If you have to remove that bearing, make sure you pull it out from the inner race of the bearing, if it is a press fit that is.

I cannot find any info on that machine you have, but suspect its the same as other brands under different paint.
Maybe a picture of the machine might be of help so others can comment if they have the same machine.
Parts might be available, but you would need to know if all these alloy castings are all rubbish, or you got a lemon.

Tom
 

Graeme48

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I think that the pivoting component is only held by a rod which can just be seen in the photo and could probably be drifted out. The shaft for the wheel looks to be either pressed or screwed into the same component. As a non-engineer, I am not sure what is possible as a repair but to be fair it is the thick end of thirty years old, so hasn't done too bad for a budget machine.
Graeme
 

Ttrees

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Refabrication from mild steel was what I was thinking, if replacement was not an option.
Tom
 

Graeme48

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Thanks, Tom. In the absence of any other alternatives it sounds like a bit more research for me finding a potential fabricator of small components.
Graeme
 

Graeme48

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Thanks for all the help and advice. Further strip-down suggests that both trunnions (also cast alloy) are also about to give way, the bearings probably need replacing and the whole machine needs some TLC having been stood mainly idle for probably 10 years. I think I'm going to pass this on through Ebay, to somebody who wants a relatively cheap project, and treat myself to a RP Sabre 350, hoping I can get one before we go into lockdown again.
Having really got back into woodturning since the first time, I would rather not be without a bandsaw for the duration of the next lockdown.
 
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