bandsaw problem saw marks

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devonwoody

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My bandsaw is producing vertical saw marks (ridges) on the vertical length of its cut. narrow pieces and wide pieces when doing resaw cuts.

Any solutions please?

Record rsb12

1/4" blade and the 1/2" blade as well.
 
Hi Devonwoody,

I dislike answering someone's question with a question...

It would be helpful to know a couple things.

Is it a new blade?
Blade type/manufacturer
The type of wood
Are you also getting a cup in the cut--non-flat across the wood width concave on one surface and convex its mate on the wider wood?

If it is not a new blade, how much use has it had?

Some general info fwiw, some new blades I have purchased have left scoring that is obviously a improperly set tooth or two, usually where the weld is.
A blade that has seen its share of use on really hard woods will dull faster than on soft woods.
A dull blade will force the user to push harder than one ought. This can cause the blade to bow in the cut causing the convex/concave issue.
A lesser-quality blade will not only dull faster but usually does not have teeth set consistently around the blade and cause scoring.
Improperly set guides can cause blade misalignment which can cause the scoring.

Because in your case the saw marks are occuring on both narrow and wide pieces, I would think this is due to either a blade that has seen better days--especially if it has not done this before. Else in the case of a new blade is due to improperly set teeth.
 
I had this with a blunt blade, on fitting a new blade a much smoother cut. 8)
Looks like a call to Dure Edge is on the cards.
 
DW

I always get some of these - even with brand new Dure edge. Part and parcel of the bandsaw :cry:
 
Just a couple of questions (all the other points have been well covered) what tpi and are the teeth 'skip' / ??? / 'raker' The latter will usually leave some marks.

A slow feed rate will often produce the best cut when the set-up is correct.

If u r buying a new blade, check with the supplier for the best set/tpi/etc for your purposes... I've always found Hamilton and Dure edge helpful in this regard. My local supplier (Toolfix Services, Peterborough) were more than helpful.
 
Yes to all the answers above. Perhaps I was in a bad mood .

But

The 1/2" blade was 15 months old and had cut without those marks until recently and then it broke yesterday.

Put in a 1/4" blade to give it a run really (brand new) and I started cursing or cussing because my latest dovetail tails had ridges and I had to use the chisel to clean the tails. This is certainly something you dont want if you are cuting dovetails to size on a bandsaw.

However today I will put in a blade that came with the bandsaw and I know it is really worn out and has no set on the teeth. Let you know happens.
 
devonwoody":3dme29rx said:
However today I will put in a blade that came with the bandsaw and I know it is really worn out and has no set on the teeth. Let you know happens.

I can predict what'll happen :eek: , and my crystal ball says the outcome won't be to your liking :( . The blades that are supplied with bandsaws are invariably of very poor quality and responsible for inaccurate cuts. I'd strongly urge you to buy a new blade from a reputable supplier instead, even if it means delaying your project. It's far better to suffer delay than it is to waste wood.

The best thing you could do with the blade that came with the machine would be to snip it so that it's not possible for you to be tempted to use it again.

Gypsy Rose Gill
 
Yes Gill,

I understand your advice, its I just wanted to see if I got the saw marks without any set left on the teeth.

I will be ordering some new blades and try out the much vaunted blades mentioned here on this forum.

By the way what size blade and type should I use for dovetailing on a
bandsaw.
 
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