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ChrisAB

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Hello
I am new to using a bandsaw, I bought an Aldi Ferrex bandsaw and need help fixing blade drift, I have looked at all the videos on the subject but I still cannot get it right and may have even made the situation worse. I was wondering if there was anyone on here in the Doncaster/Wakefield area who could show me how to set the saw up correctly. I can put the saw in the car and bring the saw to you.
Thanks.
Chrisab
 

flh801978

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I’m in sheffield and very happy to help you but first I would buy a good quality blade for the type of wood you desire to cut.
I’ve had blades before that are impossible to stay in line/on the tyres..
Ian
 

sunnybob

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As long as you havent moved the lower wheel :shock: , everything is recoverable.
MOST IMPORTANT!!!! SLACKEN THE GUIDES RIGHT OUT OF THE WAY TOP AND BOTTOM.
loosen the top wheel.
slip the blade to the middle of the top wheel.
tighten the blade only enough to stop it falling off.
turn the top wheel by hand several times, adjusting the top wheel front to back untill the blade stays on the top wheel.
tighten more, but NOT very tight.
run the motor and see if the blade stays on the top wheel. It doesnt have to be dead middle, it just needs to around about the middle.
Once it does, and with the motor running, watch the front of the blade and tighten it enough to stop it fluttering side to side.
Once you believe everything is right, open the top door and "ping" the blade just as it reaches the top wheel on the left side.
it should give a clear note, no harmonics.
THEN, and ONLY THEN, adjust the guides so that the side guides are a fag paper away from the blade and well behind the teeth, and the rear guide stops the blade from being pushed far enough back that the teeth do not get squeezed between the side guides.

If youve already squeezed the teeth, the blade is dead, get another one.
 

ChrisAB

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Thanks Ian and SunnyBob for getting back so quick. I will get a couple of good quality blades, I don't suppose the Aldi ones would be very good, if you can recommend a make for me that will help. When I get the blades I will give sunnyBob's advice a try. if that does not work I would like to take up your offer of helping me Ian, Sheffield is not so far away and the wife would not turn down a trip to Meadowhall
Cheers and thanks again.

Chrisab.
 

samhay

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Most folk around here recommend Tuff Saws blades. I've found them to be sufficiently good that I don't look elsewhere.
 

fezman

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Hi Chris,

Have you seen the Robert Snodgrass video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU ) ? It basically demonstrates what SunnyBob is saying. If you follow this, then you shouldn't be far wrong. Also Peter Millard has done a few videos on Aldi Bandsaws (https://www.youtube.com/user/petermilla ... ry=bandsaw)

Looking at the bandsaw on aldi's website, the only tracking adjustments you have are the tensioner on top and the tracking of the top wheel. One thing that happened to my current bandsaw was this tracking wheel adjustment was sticking . i.e. when i turned the adjustment screw one way it was OK - as the screw was pushing the wheel out, but when i turned the adjustment screw back, the bandsaw wheel stayed where it was - a drop of oil sorted this (got this advice from RP rep at east mids WW show) . So when adjusting the tracking, you should be able to see the wheel move both in and out. If not, then that could be your problem.

As others have said, get a blade (or blades) from Tuffsaws - they are brilliant.

If all that fails and you want another pair of eyes to look at it - give me a shout - i live about 10 minutes from you according to your profile.

Ian
 

ChrisAB

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Thanks to everyone that replied to my post, a quick update I have ordered a couple of blades from Tuffsaws today when they arrive I will give it one last try to get my saw set up correctly. if it fails I would really appreciate it Ian if I can pay you a visit to see how it should be done. I will also try what Fezman said about adjustment screw.
once again thank you.
Chris
 

divadsci

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I've just gotten the £150 10" Ferrex and following the steps mentioned above I have it cutting straight and smooth so it's definitely possible with this saw.

The bearing adjustment is a pain though, you can't adjust the lower rear bearing while it's in position, instead you have to get it about right and then slide the whole bearing assembly forwards and backwards to get it in position. And its fiddly getting the bearings tightened down without knocking them out of position.
 

ChrisAB

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Just to let you all know my problem is now solved. Have recovered enough from flu this morning to venture into my shed. I would like to give special thanks to Ian who was willing to sort me out if i couldn't do it. Secial thanks to sunnybob for the instructions, which i followed to the letter, and all now is well.

Once again thanks to everyone who offered help.
Cheers
Chris.
 

Alexam

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Hope you will already be on the way to improving matters, but in case anything was missed, I am sending the bandsaw tuning sheet I put together some time ago, which may help.

BANDSAW TUNING - UNPLUGED
BEFORE TUNING - ensure that the bandsaw is set up on a level plane and bolted, or clamped down to prevent movement. If this is a modern or used machine, ensure that it is cleaned completely and that all moving parts are free and not blocked or stiffened by a build up of sawdust etc.
Check that the condition of both upper and lower wheel tyres and that both are in good order. Should a tyre need replacement, then replace the pair and not just one tyre.
CO-PLANER - this is a term meaning that with the blade attached at normal tension and with no contact by the guides or thrust bearing on the blade, both wheels are in line with a straight edge when stationary or turned by hand. If wheels are not in line, adjustments can be made by inserting a washer or shim behind the lower wheel if required to bring it into line.
In reality, wheels are more likely not to be in co-planer, as manufacturers often set up their machinery to run efficiently and allow for a slight offset to allow for various width blades. Co-planer is not an essential point as correct tuning will show and if your bandsaw wheels are not in line, you should not treat this as so desperately important.
When tuning your machine, a major factor is the top wheel adjustment that will allow the tilting of the top wheel so that the blade can position/seat itself in the correct place on the tyre.
TIRE - BLADE POSITION. One of the most important factors of tuning is getting this right. The adjustment for tilting the top wheel will move the blade towards the front or the back of the tyre. If guides and trust bearings are near the blade during initial tuning, you can damage the blade teeth.
Turning the wheels by hand helps, but once the motor has started, the blade position can change, so be aware not to close in the guides and bearings until after the blade seating has been carried out.
BLADES - Blade tension varies with different width blades. Adjust the tension until the blade can be moved to the side by gently pressing your finger on it whilst stationary. Movement should be about 1/16" - 1/8".
Some bandsaws will have a guide or gauge for tension settings of different width blades, but these are only an approximate 'guide' and cannot be relied upon for complete accuracy.
GUIDES & THRUST BEARINGS - Often upper and lower guides and thrust bearings are fitted, although there are other devices for maintaining the blade position, whilst allowing the blade to move more freely than with guides and thrust bearings.
However, you should check the condition of the guides and thrust bearings above and below the table. They should all be clean and able to move as required if touched by the blade when running or if turned the wheels by hand.
Some guided have blocks of various composition, or bearing guides either side of the blade and depending on condition, may need replacing. Consider the composition of the blocks, or bearings, as other types may be available and may improve the overall tuning of the bandsaw.
Guides should be set just short of touching the blade when it is moving. Manually turning the wheels whenever an adjustment is made is an essential part of tuning your bandsaw.
Similarly with the upper and lower thrust bearing, at the back of the blade, these should be set so that they do not rotate when the blade moves, unless under pressure from cutting.
TURNING ON - CONNECTING POWER - After making the above adjustments, switch on very briefly and switch off again, Check to see that the blade is not hitting the guides when running, before operating the machine at full stretch.
AFTER INITIAL BLADE TUNING - Once the above has been checked, it is time to check that the cut of timber is square. Test this by making a light, shallow cut on a block of wood, then turning the wood over 180 degrees and check that the blade fits the first cut accurately. If it does not, then the table is not square to the blade and needs adjustment. Use an engineer's square to check alignment of the blade in vertical n horizontal planes.
SAW TABLE - Ensure that this is clean and can be moved easily when required. Make sure that the blade does not make contact with any part of the table or insert when running. If a fence is fitted, ensure that it moves freely and is secure when in use and check this with the engineers square.
CHANGING CUT HEIGHT AND BLADES - Each time the height level for cutting thin or thicker stock takes place, or the blade is changed, the guides and bearings will need to be checked.
If a wide or narrow blade has been set up correctly and then a change in blade size will require the guide and bearing settings to be changed. Start the tuning process again if changing blades.

Good luck.
Malcolm
 

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