Bandsaw Coplanar/parallel

[ulysee798]

I have a Record Power BS300E. I can set the blade to be at right angles to the table but looking from the end the blade is not perpendicular front to back. When making bandsaw boxes that is causing the front part of a drawer to be smaller than the back (the bladed is "tilted" backwards) Is there an adjustment I can make? Tracking makes no difference. - thanks

 

[Ttrees]

Loosen the bolts under the table and get the mitre slot and fence set up.
Every third tooth on nearly all blades have no set, so use that for butting a ruler against.
You can use a pair of blocks against the fence, and your ruler the far side of the blade and check for a gap between.
easier than if you were to use the fence alone.

You could call it a poor mans "bandsaw buddy"
Alternatively there is two other methods.

One method is to keep ripping thin slices off the right side of a jointed bit of timber until it's right

Another is getting a combination square or pencil gauge to draw a parallel line up some sheet material
(again jointed edge)
make the cut freehand (without fence) up to about half way, and set the fence or better yet table,
(say if you made your fence parallel with slot)
so that the fence is parallel with the freehand cut.

Ps mind your head when you stand up after adjusting trunnion bolts.

Might as well check if the table is 90 to the back of the blade, say for cutting tenon shoulders
you would not want to go beyond the bassline.
Likely you could also make the leafs of the table flush if they weren't already by way of either shimming or should there be two sets of nuts inbetween table and trunnion no need to find washers.


Tom

 

[Peri]

Another user here posted up the link to this brilliant guide - brilliant if it applies to you that is, I don't know that band saw but I expect it might.

 

[ulysee798]

Another user here posted up the link to this brilliant guide - brilliant if it applies to you that is, I don't know that band saw but I expect it might.

View attachment 133720View attachment 133721View attachment 133722

That looks like exactly what I need. I was a bit worried to adjust the lower wheel bolts as the manual warns not to but I think I'll have a go - Thanks

 

[BravoNovember]

Another user here posted up the link to this brilliant guide - brilliant if it applies to you that is, I don't know that band saw but I expect it might.

View attachment 133720View attachment 133721View attachment 133722

Thanks for this. I have the same bandsaw and although I don’t have the same problem, the user manual isn’t too detailed about these adjustments. Could be useful in the future… Cheers!

 

[deema]

Have a look at Sideways thread, we cover how to setup and adjust a bandsaw.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/scm-minimax-s45-bandsaw-teardown-overhaul.135069/

 

[Ttrees]

That looks like exactly what I need. I was a bit worried to adjust the lower wheel bolts as the manual warns not to but I think I'll have a go - Thanks

So you have more issues with the saw other than your table simply needing only to be adjusted for drift?

If you can track your blades in the same spot on the wheels, and have no pulsing of the blade, no vibration of lower wheel when running without a blade installed, no spelching of the underside of the cut, and no tire damage, then the jacking wheel adjustment sounds fine to me.

If you must adjust the lower wheel, then I suggest you better take the table off to know what you're at, since you can damage motor bearings, and more importantly wheel bore.
A beam to check for getting wheels coplanar and also for east west alignment,and either plumbline or spirit level for the job.
Possibly could be done without table removal using a laser, although I've yet to see it proven.

Tom