Bandsaw care?

[sunnybob]

Now I have my nice new bandsaw, I need to know how to look after the cast iron table.

Its in an unheated garage, and humidity is high, although strangely enough, its very rare to see any metal getting discoloured in there.

I've wiped it down with very fine wire wool and thinners, then wiped light machine oil on it for now. But i cant leave that on there as it will stain the wood.

 

[sunnybob]

Oh, and I forgot, This machine has two speeds, but no hint in the manual as to which sped to use for what. Again, help needed.

 

[custard]

Get a dust cover, most moisture condenses out of the air above the table. If you see old machinery that's been stuck in a barn the worst rust forms where it's not had something covering it.

Slow speed for metal, fast speed for wood.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Briwax, microcrystalline are good, or any other wax polish. I used to use mould release wax (it's hard). You can buy purpose (made?) sold stuff as well.

 

[beganasatree]

Hi Bob,
I use paste wax,it is a tin of antique pine furniture polish that the other half thought I could use for the woodturning (I dont think it is)but I use it on the band saw,lathe,p.t,and scroll saw.I am glad that you got your saw in the end,long road for a short cut.

Peter.

 

[sunnybob]

It came with the belt on slow speed, so i used that for my test cut and it seemed ok. I cut a piece off the end of a 2" x 16" wide plank of what I believe is Padauk. Its a very hard wood, my belt sander with 150 grit barely polishes the surface of it.
The saw cut well.
I shall try again tomorrow on the faster speed.
Theres a very slight vibration on the blade. I've seen the you tube where you have to tighten till it looks stationary, but i cant tighten this anymore or the wheel on top will snap.

Peter, yes a saga even by my standards, but I'm hoping it will be worth the effort. That table looks huge after the little fox saw. I've sat at smaller tables in restaurants.

 

[custard]

Dust cover on,

Five years and no rust,

In the background of the first photo you can just make out the dust covers on the lathe and on the morticer. I use them because they work.

 

[sunnybob]

I have some furniture wax and shall apply some it tomorrow.

Dont have anything suitable for a dustcover to hand, Have to go shopping on monday.

 

[custard]

Theres a very slight vibration on the blade. I've seen the you tube where you have to tighten till it looks stationary, but i cant tighten this anymore or the wheel on top will snap.

Do not over tighten or you risk permanently deforming the spring and effectively reducing the maximum tension that the machine can apply.

The blade will sometimes stretch a bit initially and the tension may need taking up after a few days use.

 

[sunnybob]

my one "moan" is that there is no tension indicator on this machine. I know they arent totally accurate, but at least it gives a reference point to keep the tension the same.

i might make a measuring gauge for deflection at the table.

 

[AJB Temple]

I use tins of wax polish applied with a rag. Plus WD40 here and there. I use woven blankets of the kind carried by removal men (very cheap) to cover all machines. Zero problems with rust.

 

[custard]

my one "moan" is that there is no tension indicator on this machine. I know they arent totally accurate, but at least it gives a reference point to keep the tension the same.

i might make a measuring gauge for deflection at the table.

I don't want to quibble and split hairs, but for the sake of clarity it may not be the same.

Tension is a function of the cross section and composition of the bandsaw blade. So it's easy to get adequate tension on a 1/8" blade made from thin steel. It's hard to get adequate tension on a 1 1/4" M42 blade. Setting a built in tension indicator in the same spot for both of these blades would result in very different levels of tension.

One bit of advice, don't (like many users) fit the widest blade that your machine is rated for and then assume you're loaded for bear. Firstly most bandsaw manufacturers are wildly optimistic with their ratings, and assume you'll be using a wide blade that's made from tin foil. And second, you don't need it. I regularly cut 200mm plus hardwood veneers that are 2-3mm thick with a 1/2" blade. The timber moves through at a snail's pace but the job gets done consistently and accurately, and I know I've got tension in reserve so nothing's getting stressed (including the operator!). Incidentally, the timber framing boys use portable, hand-held bandsaws, these are generally fitted with 6 or 8mm saw blades as that's the widest they can tension, but they still munch through 12" Oak beams without complaint!

 

[user 19915]

Probably a dull question but will a old blanket or towel do the same job ??

 

[sunnybob]

My missus is a terror for chucking out any towel that has a minor split or looks "old".
And I'm not taking my duvet out to it!!

 

[custard]

Probably a dull question but will a old blanket or towel do the same job ??

Old towel, blanket, bit of tarpaulin, carpet scraps, dusters, even your cast off Y-fronts...they'll all help keep the rust at bay!

 

[biskit]

Has any man ever used the Y in the y fronts? .? :?: :wink: just pull the top down far easier

 

[sunnybob]

my thong wont cover very much!

 

[sunnybob]

Custard, technical question for you.
What blade would give the best results if i want to rip woods like mahogany, maple, oak, into 8mm slices, from a 20cm x 25mm plank?

Oh, and I think I've found the answer to the table protection,
ACF 50 spray.

But I'll still sort out a cover anyway, cos the garage is usually around 85% humidity.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

In Cornwall the humidity is regularly that high. It causes no problem until quickly fluctuating heat (workshop heating) is introduced to the equation, then condensation settles while you're thinking about it.

 

[Eric The Viking]

You need a two-pronged approach:

Cover the machines with some sort of impermeable membrane. The biggest dustbin liners I can find, if necessary cut open to make sheets, work really well - opened-out, one goes on the bandsaw table, wrapped round like a scarf, and then a normal bag over the top wheel on top of the first bin liner.

I've had really good results with Liberon lubricating wax, and it doesn't seem to cause trouble with finishes either. I wouldn't use furniture polish, because that will be troublesome in due course.

Finally, an issue here but probably not in Cyprus: rust forms from condensation, not humidity. If air that was warm and humid cools in the workshop, that's when there is a problem. It can no longer hold the water, so that drops out as dew.

You won't get condensation (and rust) in the spring as the average temperature warms - the air stays pretty dry. You do get it in the autumn and winter, as the warm outdoor air comes in and is allowed to cool.

There's a good case for throwing open the double doors on really cold, dry days, to dry out the inside of the workshop - the air is actually drier outside, so changing the air, whilst it does make you chilly, will also remove some of the moisture trapped in the building.

I have a small tubular heater under my tool drawers. All it has to do is keep the inside slightly warmer than outside, then condensation can't form. A tiny amount warmer is sufficient.

E.