Alexam
Bandsaw Boxmaker
FETTLING
A small instruction card comes with the Stabilizer and is adequate. It suggests you remove the blade before removing the top guides and backing off the lower guides and thrust bearing. I found that it was best not to have the Stabilizer in place at all to start with when positioning your blade, because on this machine, there is very little space between the stabilizer and the blade.
You need to ensure that the blade will run with the lower part of the gullet in the centre of the upper wheel. Set this by hand with the machine unpluged, as well as running the machine on power before finishing the blade setting.
I have a 3" engineering square, suitably marked or the centre of the wheel, to place against the upper wheel edge. It's easier that guessing the centre when setting the blade position and much quicker.
Once the blade is correctly positioned, fit the Stabilizer and ensure that the bearing wheel is in line with the blade, by loosening the hex screw allowing the bearing wheel to move sideways and then tighten up when in line. From the blade being just touching in the groove, move the Stabilizer unit forward by 1/8" to 'load' the blade sufficiently so that it will sit there when running.
This will produce a forward movement of the blade on the top wheel and it will be necessary to adjust this back to centre, by turning the blade tracking knob clockwise. I have a mark on the top (12 noon position) of my tracking knob wheel knob indicating the 1/4" blade position centerd correctly when free of any contact. With the stabilizer pressing against the blade, this will need to be moved clockwise from 12 noon to 5pm with the 1/4" blade is being used. When using the 1/8" blade, the free position is 4pm and the under pressure move clockwise to the 9pm position. These positions may vary slightly between BS400 models, as will fitting a 3/16" blade.
That's all, apart from just checking with a square that the blade is vertical in both planes on the table and when cutting with the Stabilizer, the work should always be 1/4" above the work for best results The fact that the blade is 'loaded' against the bearing, backing out of the cut when needed, is far easier.
RESULTS
From the little I have tried so far, I am very pleased with the improved cutting on turns and trust that this will enable me to produce more detailed results. I hope that this review may help you. Please ask if you need more information.
Sorry it's been so long.
A small instruction card comes with the Stabilizer and is adequate. It suggests you remove the blade before removing the top guides and backing off the lower guides and thrust bearing. I found that it was best not to have the Stabilizer in place at all to start with when positioning your blade, because on this machine, there is very little space between the stabilizer and the blade.
You need to ensure that the blade will run with the lower part of the gullet in the centre of the upper wheel. Set this by hand with the machine unpluged, as well as running the machine on power before finishing the blade setting.
I have a 3" engineering square, suitably marked or the centre of the wheel, to place against the upper wheel edge. It's easier that guessing the centre when setting the blade position and much quicker.
Once the blade is correctly positioned, fit the Stabilizer and ensure that the bearing wheel is in line with the blade, by loosening the hex screw allowing the bearing wheel to move sideways and then tighten up when in line. From the blade being just touching in the groove, move the Stabilizer unit forward by 1/8" to 'load' the blade sufficiently so that it will sit there when running.
This will produce a forward movement of the blade on the top wheel and it will be necessary to adjust this back to centre, by turning the blade tracking knob clockwise. I have a mark on the top (12 noon position) of my tracking knob wheel knob indicating the 1/4" blade position centerd correctly when free of any contact. With the stabilizer pressing against the blade, this will need to be moved clockwise from 12 noon to 5pm with the 1/4" blade is being used. When using the 1/8" blade, the free position is 4pm and the under pressure move clockwise to the 9pm position. These positions may vary slightly between BS400 models, as will fitting a 3/16" blade.
That's all, apart from just checking with a square that the blade is vertical in both planes on the table and when cutting with the Stabilizer, the work should always be 1/4" above the work for best results The fact that the blade is 'loaded' against the bearing, backing out of the cut when needed, is far easier.
RESULTS
From the little I have tried so far, I am very pleased with the improved cutting on turns and trust that this will enable me to produce more detailed results. I hope that this review may help you. Please ask if you need more information.
Sorry it's been so long.