Bandsaw bearings- Help!

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Linus

Established Member
UKW Supporter
Joined
24 Dec 2016
Messages
648
Reaction score
1,300
Location
Salisbury
I have - yet again - a bearing failure on my Charnwood BS350 bandsaw. I know they have used cheapo bearings 609z but unfortunately these are prone to seize and I want to replace them with decent 6092RS types. Unfortunately they have 2 bearings mounted on a threaded shaft on each side and I have tried to remove them from the shaft using a puller with no luck. I am not au fait with how these are generally mounted so any guidance as to removing and replacing them would be most appreciated. I have attached a picture of the assembly to show how they are configured. I asume this is the same assembly for several clones on the market.

1633209629085.png
 
In the past with bearings down a blind hole and NO specialist extractor we drilled a couple of 4 mm holes behind the bearing and tapped them out with a pin ......
if u want a prop puller u will need to spend £50 plus squids...
 
The shaft that the bearings are on needs to come out of the housing. Then put in the jaws of a vice that supports the inner race of the bearing but not holding the shaft, then with a drift or smaller dia bolt just tap the shaft out of the bearing. Fitting a new bearing is simply a matter of either tapping the shaft back into the bearing which should be supported on a solid surface by the inner race or hold the shaft and then gently tap the bearing back on still on the inner race.
 
The shaft that the bearings are on needs to come out of the housing. Then put in the jaws of a vice that supports the inner race of the bearing but not holding the shaft, then with a drift or smaller dia bolt just tap the shaft out of the bearing. Fitting a new bearing is simply a matter of either tapping the shaft back into the bearing which should be supported on a solid surface by the inner race or hold the shaft and then gently tap the bearing back on still on the inner race.
Thanks
I tried that but it doesn't want to shift. That's why I was asking if there are any other ways of getting it to shift. I suppose freezing it won't help as all components will shrink accordingly.
Better pics attached
 

Attachments

  • 20211003_104452 (2).jpg
    20211003_104452 (2).jpg
    124.6 KB · Views: 15
  • 20211003_104546 (2).jpg
    20211003_104546 (2).jpg
    104.7 KB · Views: 15
Panic over. Went back in this morning and decided to stop faffing with it. Gave it some hefty thumps with bigger persuader and the damn thing came apart. perhaps it had cooled overnight and shrunk a bit. Thanks all for assistance. Salutory lesson, when you buy Chinese built machines, change all the bearings straight away for good brands.
 
Hi Spectric
I believe that Z stands for shield whereas RS denotes seal hence 2RS is sealed both sides. Thats what the bearing supplier tells me.
 
Panic over. Went back in this morning and decided to stop faffing with it. Gave it some hefty thumps with bigger persuader and the damn thing came apart. perhaps it had cooled overnight and shrunk a bit. Thanks all for assistance. Salutory lesson, when you buy Chinese built machines, change all the bearings straight away for good brands.
If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
Back
Top