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pedrod316

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Hi All,
Purchased a new record sabre band saw recently. Having trouble with it, when you are ripping the timber wants to drift away from the fence?when you try holding timber tight to fence the blade starts rubbing against the guide wheels.
The fence is parallel to the blade, it seems set up ok.
Any suggestions??
 

Cabinetman

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People will jump all over me for saying this I’m sure, in my experience different blades cut in different ways so just accept that, draw a line on a piece of scrap ply and put it through the bandsaw and stop the machine with the ply still on the bed, this shows what angle your blade cuts at, then set your fence to that angle.
Ian
 

Cabinetman

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This is my home-made fence which I G cramp to the angle each time, not very handy but I don’t use it very often for re-sawing. It might be handier if you were to draw the line on the piece of scrap ply the same distance in as the thickness you want to saw, set your fence to the edge of the piece of ply.
B8373230-47AD-4111-B6DF-44D99BB8BC40.jpeg
then you can set your fence to the edge of the piece of ply.
 

Mike Jordan

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I bought a Record bandsaw some years back, the blade that came with it was rubbish! I suggest a 3tpi skip tooth blade from tuff saws.
The after sales service on the Record was spot on though.
 

Arnold9801

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Hi All,
Purchased a new record sabre band saw recently. Having trouble with it, when you are ripping the timber wants to drift away from the fence?when you try holding timber tight to fence the blade starts rubbing against the guide wheels.
The fence is parallel to the blade, it seems set up ok.
Any suggestions??
I had the exact same issue with my bandsaw which coincidentally was also a Record. This went on for years and I hardly used it as a result.

Then one day after all these years I discovered my blade was the wrong way round! I turned the blade inside out so the teeth were now facing what was the "proper way" and it was fantastic just like that!

I love the bandsaw and now use it so often.

Have a look at your teeth!
 

Bod

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Hi All,
Purchased a new record sabre band saw recently. Having trouble with it, when you are ripping the timber wants to drift away from the fence?when you try holding timber tight to fence the blade starts rubbing against the guide wheels.
The fence is parallel to the blade, it seems set up ok.
Any suggestions??
For a sensible answer, we need to know, what wood are you cutting, species and thickness, and what blade you are using, both thickness(distance from teeth to smooth back edge)and teeth per inch.
Example 75mm thick oak with a 8 tooth 1/4 blade, will be difficult at very best, change for a 3 tooth 3/8 then the difference will be seen.
Also feed speed will have an effect.

Bod.
 

Padster

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I recently get a new bandsaw and wanted to be sure I had the best possible set up so I did lots of reading and searching and found that a you tube video by Alex Snodgrass was widely recommended - I’ve used this and it all works as I wished ....I’m no expert but it might be worth a watch.
hth
Padster
 

pedrod316

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Thanks for reply’s folks.

I currently have standard blade on but will take off as i bought some tuff saw blades.
I am only ripping softwood timbers 150mm deep.

Which blade below is best for general use?


SuperTuff Sabrecut Bandsaw Blade - 2820mm x 3/4" x 3tpi Extra Set
SuperTuff Premium Bandsaw Blade - 2820mm x 1/2" x 6tpi
SuperTuff Carbon Bandsaw Blade - 2820mm x 1/4" x 6tpi
 

pedrod316

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I recently get a new bandsaw and wanted to be sure I had the best possible set up so I did lots of reading and searching and found that a you tube video by Alex Snodgrass was widely recommended - I’ve used this and it all works as I wished ....I’m no expert but it might be worth a watch.
hth
Padster
Thanks, will have a look at you tube video
 

spb

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Thanks for reply’s folks.

I currently have standard blade on but will take off as i bought some tuff saw blades.
I am only ripping softwood timbers 150mm deep.

Which blade below is best for general use?


SuperTuff Sabrecut Bandsaw Blade - 2820mm x 3/4" x 3tpi Extra Set
SuperTuff Premium Bandsaw Blade - 2820mm x 1/2" x 6tpi
SuperTuff Carbon Bandsaw Blade - 2820mm x 1/4" x 6tpi
There's no such thing as best for general use. For long straight rips 150mm deep, you'll want the widest blade your saw can tension properly, at around 3tpi. For cutting curves in sheet materials or thin timber, the 1/4" blade will be able to go round a curve that something wider won't. You need to match the blade to the type of cut as well as the size of material.
 

Doug B

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I don’t know your saw but would suggest a 3tpi for ripping 150mm thickness & a size down from what the manufacturer says is the maximum width the saw can tension, eg if they say 3/4” go for 5/8”
 

Spectric

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Hi

Same issues with my Record BS400, a snake could crawl in a straighter line than it could cut. From advice given here I brought Tuff saw blades and they made an amazing difference but still not perfect. Once you read and look at all the different approaches to setting them up it will leave you even more confused, there seems to be so many different methods and ideas it can become daunting. I took a logical approach, my table and fence are square to the blade so the mitre slot is usable, then from some you tube expert I set the wheels totaly co planer, no tilt with both fully aligned. Tension is another issue, but the blade needs to be taut and you will find the best tension through T&E, mine seems to be over what the gauge states for a given blade. Set the guides so there is fag paper clearance and away you go. Make sure the guides do not contact the teeth, need to be set behind gullet.
 

lurker

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Somewhere, possibly you tube, I saw a decent explanation about sawdust clogging the blade and why you need as few teeth in the kerf as possible.
The bloke had a huge wooden saw section to demonstrate this.
Does this ring any bells?
 

Steve_Scott

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I had the exact same issue with my bandsaw which coincidentally was also a Record. This went on for years and I hardly used it as a result.

Then one day after all these years I discovered my blade was the wrong way round! I turned the blade inside out so the teeth were now facing what was the "proper way" and it was fantastic just like that!

I love the bandsaw and now use it so often.

Have a look at your teeth!
This should be in the “what’s the silliest thing you’ve done in the workshop” thread! Thanks for the laugh!
 

Vinn

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I also bought a Record Power BS350 Sabre bandsaw a couple of years ago. Thought I was getting a good deal with a couple of free blades thrown in the price. The larger one ¾" was completely useless. I mean it's probably the worst blade I've ever used. Massive vibration, completely out of true. (Come on Record, sort it out)

Bought some Tuffsaw blades and it now cuts perfectly. I can easily trim ⅛" slice from 7" hardwood and it will be consistent thickness. That's using the fence, which is set up to be parallel to the mitre slot (which is parallel with the blade).

Just my 2¢
 

Tortoise

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I also bought a Record Power BS350 Sabre bandsaw a couple of years ago. Thought I was getting a good deal with a couple of free blades thrown in the price. The larger one ¾" was completely useless. I mean it's probably the worst blade I've ever used. Massive vibration, completely out of true. (Come on Record, sort it out)

Bought some Tuffsaw blades and it now cuts perfectly. I can easily trim ⅛" slice from 7" hardwood and it will be consistent thickness. That's using the fence, which is set up to be parallel to the mitre slot (which is parallel with the blade).

Just my 2¢

Similar here with the BS250. Supplied blades wandered, even after careful setup. "Get a new blade" said the retailer so I did (from him). Same result. Then I read on here and tried a blade from Tuffsaws. Transformed the sawing and quite happy now the saw is performing at its best for straight cuts (it's only the entry level model). The advice from Ian on what blades to buy has been invaluable and I now make cuts quite happily without the worry of a wandering blade on a critical cut. The BS250 will not take the Tuffsaws veneer cutting blades (BS250 limited to 1/2") but with a general purpose blade I can now cut veneer reliably down to 1mm. Remaining hassles are the poor (sloppy) mitre gauge and the fiddy setup of the guides (could be so much better with adjustment by screw rather than slide), but the major issue is resolved.
 

Alexam

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All to do with the way the bandsaw is set up and many owners do not go into enough detail on this. I hope the following may help
GET THE BEST TUNING FROM A BANDSAW

'Alex Snodgrass of Carter Industries has an excellent video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU on a tune up method that works well. His updated version also here -

The following video may help some owners with a Record BS400, but it is similar to most machines blade changes -

Blades can run and cut without any guides whatsoever (
) as long as the machine is tuned correctly. This is how the blade should be running BEFORE the guides are brought into play on your machine, so that they can 'bump back' the blade should it wander, so please dont get guides near the blade before you know it is running clear and staying in the same place.



CHECKING BLADE TENSION - Flutter test Video's -

and

Tuning a bandsaw is only that and nothing else. If you really want to get the very best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment that you should own.
http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ '.

BUY BEST BLADES FROM ..... Tuff Saws

TUNE WITH SOUND ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPyc2iDQnOA&vl ( UNPROVEN )

Whenever you put a blade on a bandsaw, ask yourself the following questions:-


....... are you managing to get the blade running freely and central on the top wheel ( without guides or rear bearing near the blade ) with the gullet of the teeth in the centre of the top wheel ? The exception would be with wider blades, as 1/2" and wider may not sit 'centred' on the top wheel).

That's the first priority before closing in guides and support/thrust bearings. The blade will not be in the centre of the lower wheel as the manufacturer allows the top wheel to be adjusted and tilt to allow tuning.

Is the blade running vertical 90° to the table alignment, front and back as well as side to side?

Once the guides and bearings have been brought to the correct position, (not touching when the blade runs freely) is the blade remaining where it should be when run under power and switched on and off checking several times ? IMPORTANTLY, your guides should all have a locking mechanism and it ius important to make dure that you have tightened those locks tightly. \If not, vibration could allow the guides to move closer and possibly lock the blade.

Make sure that the blade tension is correct, or as near as it can be. Each blade could be different, even if it is the same depth, so needs to be checked whenever changing blades.

If all these things are correct, then you should get a true cut unless you are trying to cut the wood too fast and it's filling the teeth with sawdust and pushing the blade out of line and see if teeth are damaged in any way.

Finally, if you have used the blade before, make sure the teeth are clean, as sawdust and sap can stick in the teeth gullet and side of the blade. Cleaning with a wire brush will result in a far better cut before starting a new job, but certainly on a regular basis. Methalated spirit is good for removing the sap resin if it has built up and don't forgrt to check the wheels for this type of build up.



Carter blade Stabilizer - by Alex Snodgrass.
https://youtu.be/w_tv7cm0-VU

This video shows how well a stabilizer works for smaller blades with the guide only above the table. I have one of these which works well. The back of the blade gullet is also on the centre line on the upper wheel as per his usual advice. Product Range -


Finally, if you have an older machine with 3 phase connections, this following video may help



https://youtu.be/ZqnfLHhuuUQ = 3 phase converter



Good luck with your woodworkworking.

Malcolm - Badgerwoodcrafters@yahoo.com
 

Sandyn

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I use Tuff Saws blades and take more time cutting. I don't push too much and just let the blade do the cutting. I use the M42 blade. They are a bit more expensive, but well worth it. I use one blade for everything. Probably not the best idea, but accurate enough for what I do. I could not work without a band saw now it is so versatile and with a good blade, makes cutting so easy.
 

ChippyKlutz

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Revealing my novice error might help. I bought a Record BS450 and initially couldn't get it to cut straight. I too found my way to a Tuffsaws blade and things improved dramatically. Tweaking the table setup enabled me to get it to cut (straight cuts) very well with all the guides backed right off. This seemed to me to be a worthwhile test because if the cut ran off line with no guides I interpreted it as an indication that the blade wasn't running true to the fence. I then just brought the guides up as a backup, in case I get too heavy-handed with the feed rate.

All went swimmingly until one day when the cut suddenly would no longer run true. I faffed about for ages and had to go right back to square one with the guides, to no avail, until the penny dropped and I checked the blade against the mitre slot/fence angle and I realised the table had shifted on the frame!

The table attachment on the Record machine is pretty basic, just four bolts in large sloppy holes and although I know not to move the machine (when the wheels are engaged) by pulling on the table, I think I must have clunked against it when moving some heavy boards around the shop.

Once I had realigned the table to the blade as was well once again.
 

Delwood

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When bolting the table to the mounting there is a small amount of movement before you tighten the bolts fully. You may be able to compensate for the straightness of the cut by 'squaring' the table to the blade.
 
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