Balancing veneer?

[stuartpaul]

I'm looking to make some small boxes, - no more then 10 inches square and 5 high. I've got some rather nice burr oak home cut veneer (about 2.5 to 3 mm thick - don't you just love the mix of units!) that I want to use and wonder if I have to use a balancing veneer on the inside?

I'll be using oak or other solid wood as the ground and would prefer if possible not to use a balance but obviously don't want to have problems further down the line. Total thickness will be less than half an inch.

Any thoughts or experiences?

 

[Droogs]

you need to use a balance. You'd be amazed how much and how quick a veneered piece can warp, especially as it experiences humidity change. the balance veneer doesn't need to be the same as the face one. As long as it has a similar density then they will balance each other out. just use a slice of straight grained oak as the backer and you will be fine. the important thing to remember is to have an odd number of layers including the core ground.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

I'm going to respectfully and partially disagree with Droogs' guidance. A balance veneer is the usual guideline, and this is the case for panels that are largely unsupported or unrestricted one way or another, e.g., table tops, panels captured in grooves in doors, many cabinet parts such as tops, sides and bases where there is limited internal framing, etc.

However, there are instances where veneering occurs on just one face, particularly if the veneered part is supported by structure on the opposite face. Examples include solid wood drawer fronts veneered on the outside and held by the corner dovetails, small boxes such as you propose that are built and veneered after construction, and even such parts as cabinet sides that incorporate plenty of restricting structure on the opposite face, such as several rails, runners and kickers for drawers.

Having said all that, you're using rather thick veneer which will be stronger than the normal 0.6 mm thick stuff, and therefore likely to cause greater warping of the ground. So perhaps to be safe, you'd be best to veneer both sides of the wood prior to joining the corners rather than making the box and then veneering just the outside face. Slainte.

 

[stuartpaul]

Thanks chaps,

A balancing veneer it is. Follow on question, - does it have to be the same thickness or can I use thinner, commercial veneer? It would make life easier if I can.

 

[Droogs]

ideally they should be the same, so as to balance out the stresses. The main reason I pushed the need for the backer is the fact that you have thicker hand sawn veneer and as you are doing it as a hobby the parts may lay around for a bit between working on them. I had occasion a few years ago to hammer on a face veneer (sycamore about 2mm thick ) on a piece 3" x 9" x 1/4 and run out of time and go out on the lash. next day wasn't feeling to great stayed in bed and next day found a lovely wooden baguette trough on the bench

 

[woodpig]

10 inches square and 5 high. I've got some rather nice burr oak home cut veneer (about 2.5 to 3 mm thick - don't you just love the mix of units!)

It's an advantage that we Brits have that neither the Americans or Europeans have. Not sure about Oz or NZ though ... :lol: