Scrollerman
Established Member
- Joined
- 10 Mar 2012
- Messages
- 231
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As an experienced scroller of many years I, like others here, have often received blades that were not up to par or in other words just plain blunt !
This has become no surprise for me and the first thing I do is change supplier if I get a bad batch.
Before I go any further, I suggest you read a very informative article by Mike of 'Mike's Workshop' about how scroll saw blades are made.
Here's the link and please read all of it but take note of the last paragragh !
http://www.mikesworkshop.com/How%20blades%20made.htm
So, by Mike's own admission, there ARE BAD batches of blades and Mike has been told it's the fault of the wire suppliers ?
I would add that there are many reasons why a batch of blades are bad and not just because of the wire from the suppliers !
If a blade is 'milled', it could be the milling tool is becoming blunt or is blunt.
If it's a 'pressed' blade, the pressing tool could also not be as sharp as it should be.
The hardening process of the blades is also another area where things can go wrong and often rears it's ugly head as blades that don't hold their edge for very long at all !
A bad batch of blades is par for the course if you place many orders a year as I do but as I said, the first thing I do is change supplier.
This is not a guarantee you will not get another bad batch from a different supplier but it generally works for me.
Now for the interesting bit.
Do I use the blades and put up with slow and often innacurate cutting, or waste/throw the bad blades away ?.......NO !
Here's what I do and it will only work to the limit of your eyes, the hardness of the blade and if it's just a bad mill or press that's at fault.
I sharpen them with a diamond file but for me this is only possible with my old eyes down to a size 7 !
I do this with the blade tensioned in the saw.
All I do is file (just a couple of strokes) the sloping part of the teeth as this is the longest area and works a treat for me.
Number 9 and 12 blades are no problem at all and only takes around 20 seconds per blade once you get used to doing it.
I have revived many new but bad blades that only needed a slight touch up with a diamond file.
I've also had success using a Dremel type mini drill with a fine diamond tip of around 1mm by stroking the tool in a downward fashion over the teeth from top to bottom with the blade in the the saw.
Don't overdo it though as too much could give bad results.
Just a single light stroke down is enough but please do your own experimenting.
It goes without saying that this works for good blades that just need a touch up.....Simples LOL.
Have fun fellow scrollers.
This has become no surprise for me and the first thing I do is change supplier if I get a bad batch.
Before I go any further, I suggest you read a very informative article by Mike of 'Mike's Workshop' about how scroll saw blades are made.
Here's the link and please read all of it but take note of the last paragragh !
http://www.mikesworkshop.com/How%20blades%20made.htm
So, by Mike's own admission, there ARE BAD batches of blades and Mike has been told it's the fault of the wire suppliers ?
I would add that there are many reasons why a batch of blades are bad and not just because of the wire from the suppliers !
If a blade is 'milled', it could be the milling tool is becoming blunt or is blunt.
If it's a 'pressed' blade, the pressing tool could also not be as sharp as it should be.
The hardening process of the blades is also another area where things can go wrong and often rears it's ugly head as blades that don't hold their edge for very long at all !
A bad batch of blades is par for the course if you place many orders a year as I do but as I said, the first thing I do is change supplier.
This is not a guarantee you will not get another bad batch from a different supplier but it generally works for me.
Now for the interesting bit.
Do I use the blades and put up with slow and often innacurate cutting, or waste/throw the bad blades away ?.......NO !
Here's what I do and it will only work to the limit of your eyes, the hardness of the blade and if it's just a bad mill or press that's at fault.
I sharpen them with a diamond file but for me this is only possible with my old eyes down to a size 7 !
I do this with the blade tensioned in the saw.
All I do is file (just a couple of strokes) the sloping part of the teeth as this is the longest area and works a treat for me.
Number 9 and 12 blades are no problem at all and only takes around 20 seconds per blade once you get used to doing it.
I have revived many new but bad blades that only needed a slight touch up with a diamond file.
I've also had success using a Dremel type mini drill with a fine diamond tip of around 1mm by stroking the tool in a downward fashion over the teeth from top to bottom with the blade in the the saw.
Don't overdo it though as too much could give bad results.
Just a single light stroke down is enough but please do your own experimenting.
It goes without saying that this works for good blades that just need a touch up.....Simples LOL.
Have fun fellow scrollers.
