Axminster TS250-2 modifications.

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I guess we will just have to wait and see.

Shame the 216TS is missing the extension table extra. I would have thought that would have been the most popular add on, the <300mm width of cut on the fence side is frustrating on all saws at this level.
 
Phoenix26":eav986y7 said:
I guess we will just have to wait and see.

Shame the 216TS is missing the extension table extra. I would have thought that would have been the most popular add on, the <300mm width of cut on the fence side is frustrating on all saws at this level.
I'd disagree there. The use-case for the machine is a small workshop. There is no way you will be cutting large sheet goods on this, so it isn't really needed. A table saw is primarily a ripping machine really - 300mm is a wide rip.

I got rid of the extension table on my TS200. As it took up too much room.

If you really wanted the right side capacity, you could just make an extension table and add N aftermarket fence/rail like the £60 Charnwood one.




Sent from my Redmi Note 5 using Tapatalk
 
Bodgers":3c88yn5p said:
Phoenix26":3c88yn5p said:
I guess we will just have to wait and see.

Shame the 216TS is missing the extension table extra. I would have thought that would have been the most popular add on, the <300mm width of cut on the fence side is frustrating on all saws at this level.
I'd disagree there. The use-case for the machine is a small workshop. There is no way you will be cutting large sheet goods on this, so it isn't really needed. A table saw is primarily a ripping machine really - 300mm is a wide rip.

I got rid of the extension table on my TS200. As it took up too much room.

If you really wanted the right side capacity, you could just make an extension table and add N aftermarket fence/rail like the £60 Charnwood one.

Sent from my Redmi Note 5 using Tapatalk

I have a TS200 and couldn't do without the extension table.
 
random question.,.

Does anyone else find raising the blade takes more or less effort at different hights?
 
Another random question

Does anyone know the technical specs/accurate dimensions of the Miter Track/T slot?

I know its not the usual size.
 
By the question I assume you don't have a TS250-2, I don't know if you have realised this saw is no longer available from Axminster, expecting a up-graded (more expensive) version to be available in the near future.
 
Hi,

Finally getting into building a rolling cabinet of sorts for my TS-250M. I managed to get the blade squared etc years ago (though rather ore fiddly than it seems the subsequent 250-2 is) by banging the rods the motor hangs from through the gap at the back of the table. Not sure if I can upgrade mine to the sliding bar arrangement ?

Anyway, I'm in the process now of sorting dust extraction to whatever degree it is possible, so have ordered the big mouth hopper and shall proceed to modify the internal blade guard.

I'd also like to set it up to take standard mitre bars. I use one of the UJK mitre fences, which is great, but had to tap the original t-track alu mitre bar to mount it as the UJK one doesn't fit. I'm wondering whether anyone has been brave enough to machine out the slots to standard size ? This you tube vid
https://youtu.be/Urz57RVC15A made me consider trying it - looks like there's just enough iron ?

Any thoughts / war stories ?
 
I know someone on a previous thread did it, but they never came back to say if it lasted, he did have a spare cast iron top to fall back on, being a casting I would have thought it dodgy, much easier to make up a sliding bar to fit the existing slots and attach what you want to use to it, lots of people use IKEA cutting boards, very hard plastic, but easily cut. Personally I have never used the mitre slots as I have the cast iron sliding mitre table and a very good sliding cross cut saw so never found the need, I do have the UJK mitre gauge on my Router table where is resides permanently.
 
The video you posted is just someone taking the arris off either side of a dovetail slot, you will need to widen the slot on the TS250 table to take the larger mitre gauge rail, this will entail taking away some of the structural integrity of the table as it would be narrowing the amount of cast iron on either side of the slot under the table, I would not do it unless I had a spare table.
 
Looking at the TS200-2 replacement, the ever so conveniently named ACS216TS : https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-c ... saw-104926 has 19mm mitre slots, it occurs to me I wonder if the awaited replacement for the TS250-2 will also have wider slots and if the top may be interchangeable with the old model, not that this has ever caused me a problem as I don't use them, but I know some do.
 
Three years on, would I do it again, the dust extraction modifications and overhead crown guard work perfectly, the table side slide has not needed re-adjustment since fitting, it has done all I have asked from it during our French house renovation, roofing work too building a Gazebo base, it has never given me any cause for concern and seems to be a prefect size for my workshop, so the answer to my own question is yes.
 
Its been a while since I looked at this!

After doing a lot of sawing this week Ive been thinking the fence is not great as its not full length and isn't supported on the far end.

Now that the extension and better fence isn't available on the Axy site, does anyone have any suggestions for a decent upgrade?

Thanks!
 
Hi Mike ca va bien!

Yeah that fence looks worth a go for around what you paid but not 160.

I guess ill have to fettle or mod what Ive got.
 
Pike

I think Steve Maskery has a plan for a wooden fence that may fit the bill.
 
Pike,

Give Axminster a call and see how much the extended fence and rear track is from the table saw extension, they’re normally very good for spares. I find my fence is rock solid with the bearing running in the rear track.

Richard

Ps. I should be able to find the instructions if you want me to dig out the part number / diagram.
 
If I remember correctly, its a recommendation from the HSE that a table saw fence does not protrude beyond the end of the blade, this is to help prevent kick back on a badly set up fence ensuring that the gap from the blade to the fence is not narrower beyond the blade and cause a pinch point.
 
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