Axminster TS250-2 modifications.

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MikeJhn

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I will be surprised if a Lidl vacuum cleaner is capable of moving enough air to keep the inside of the saw cabinet clean, it really needs a high volume of air movement to be effective, you can but try.
 

RichardG

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Further TS-250 improvements.

Two simple mods that have transformed my saw.
  • Fixed blade raising / lowering resistance.
  • Allowed 45 degree cuts to be made with the blade at low heights
It was getting harder and harder to raise the blade, especially at the lower settings. Eventually the handle of the adjustment wheel fractured, time to do something! I was expecting the raising thread to be clogged with saw dust but it wasn’t too bad even though the saw was full of dust. After laying underneath the saw and watching the mechanism it showed that the threaded pinion that transfers the turning motion of the wheel to saw height was a sloppy fit in the slots in runs it was twisting and then getting jammed at an angle. There are two shoulders which seem to have no function as they are so far away from the side slots.

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The solution was to extend the shoulders using penny washers to run against the sides. Note that mine was not central so I had to use a odd number of washers. To remove loosen the lock nuts, support the motor, and then you can remove the pinion.
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This simple mod has absolutely transformed the blade raising, I now can raise using just two fingers.

The other problem I had was that during 45 degree cuts you can’t lower blade to be flush with the table top as it fouls internally. I knew this was the internal blade shroud catching on the body. I first tried the saw with the shroud removed and the problem was cured but didn’t want to run it with the belt exposed. I also noticed that the dust sprayed everywhere with it removed. So I used my dremmel to cut the shroud as shown.

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This solved both the internal catching and now shoots the dust straight out the back into the waiting dust port, perfect.
 

MikeJhn

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Due to advancing Arthritis, old age and a heart condition I am selling up in France, therefore my whole workshop is for sale, anyone in Dordogne interested?
 

MikeJhn

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House and workshop now sold, the guy that bought is a French furniture restorer, got quite excited when he looked around and paid the asking price for the house, now back in the UK and glad we don't have to travel seven hours to our ex place, it was fun, but found ten years was enough.
 

TRITON

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Have you (or anyone) ever taken off the cast iron top.

I got my ts250 in an axminster clearance sale, and got it really cheap(Paid£300) because the top is squint to the frame, and its off by 5 or so mill.
What that means in real time is I can adjust the blade so it is aligned to the slots and fence for 90 deg cuts, but if I cant the blade to 45 deg, the leading edge of the blade impacts the table, and if i square it, its not going to align totally to the slots, and putting the blade back to 90 deg its well squint.

So what I think i need do to rectify it, is to remove the top, then elongate the holes into the frame, so I can actually align the table to the frame, before tightening it up. This would mean at that point the blade at either 45or 90 would align to the slots and the fence.

Anyone see that as the solution ?. I know you cant see what im seeing, and i think just opening up the holes on the frame is the answer, though at the same time I can see that id need washers underneath, and maybe fill in the excess gap with epoxy in case the table moves in use. I dont see that actually happening, but because im creating room for it to move, I think i should do something to prevent that from happening once Ive squared one to the other. Just eliminate the possibility

TBH, I think given the hassle its caused, and trying to avoid doing long mitres, id have preferred to spend that extra 200 quid. But hey ho, only had limited funds at the time and it seemed like a great deal then

Im intending on selling it, to be replaced with a 14" bandsaw and plunge saw. But it needs to be sorted before i can do so.
 

MikeJhn

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How old is the saw, the ones on this thread have a plate under the table to take the adjustment bolts, this allows the top to be moved around quite a lot, if its a Mk1 then the adjustment bolts have nuts on them and are not as adjustable, have a look at the first two or three pages of this thread, after page three or so the thread gets messy with some that just like to post on every thread without giving any positive contributions and even post about a different saw renovation that never happens.
 
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