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Axminster TS250-2 modifications.

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RichardG

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Matted":lxkxw9g2 said:
Id like to improve the dust collection if possible. I am working in garage with lots of non workshop things on shelves. I can of course wheel it outside if I need to which
Can I ask how you've attached the dust shoot to the table saw, could you post a couple of close up shots? and cheers for your design!

My collector is mounted to the stand and not the saw, it’s a tight press fit to the saw body. I placed a couple of blocks on the diagonal and at the back to support it. I’ll take some more photos but it won’t be until later this week.

The crown guard wasn’t successful and I would buy a new 100mm adaptor the same as MikeJkn so you get a larger diameter those for the guard and then copy his design. I still haven’t got round to this yet...

Richard
 

Matted

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cheers guys!

Im thinking now of doing away with the shoot/dust collection and boxing in the bottom section (so its essentially one big bucket) and making one side of it removable. That way the dust can simply fall into that area, settle and Ill clean it out by vacuum or hand later.

Can anyone think why this might be a bad idea?
 

MikeJhn

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Why not put a bag in the enclosure for the detritus to fall into, that way you will not be exposing yourself as much to the dust, as the underside of the saw is not under pressure or vacuum this could be a large plastic dustbin bag, just grab it by the neck, close up, remove and dispose of in your household waste.

I would still advise using an extractor on the blade guard as a lot of debris and dust is thrown up from the blade gullet.

Mike
 

Matted

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MikeJhn":3dpzke5o said:
Why not put a bag in the enclosure for the detritus to fall into


yeah i can definitely do that!

Ill still keep the vacuum attached via the crown guard/rear port - Ill box in and bag for whatever falls though the bottom.
 

Matted

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Hi All,

quick question - Ive noticed when I angle the blade at 45* its seems impossible to lower the blade beyond a certain point. I would estimate the lowest I can get the blade is something like 35-40mm.

I assume it cant go lower while at that angle because there is not enough housing for the motor when low down at an angle.

Im I correct here or do I have a faulty saw?
 

MikeJhn

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I don't know the answer to that, but if you look at the second picture on page one, the threaded shaft on the right of the picture is what tilts the saw, you can see the far stop end closest to the bottom of the pic, if you can still access the underside of the saw you may be able to feel into the cavity to ascertain if the saw is achieving full travel. I wont insult you by telling you to unplug the saw first.
 

Matted

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Sorry, really silly question - can anyone tell me what width the Mitre Slot are on the table. I was going to by some runners to make a cross cut sledge, and I want to make doubly sure I get the correct size.

im not too sure if it get measured from the smallest width or the widest width, and I can guarantee Ill scree it up somehow and order the wrong part.
 

rafezetter

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Matted":22cc07jo said:
Sorry, really silly question - can anyone tell me what width the Mitre Slot are on the table. I was going to by some runners to make a cross cut sledge, and I want to make doubly sure I get the correct size.

You're better off makign your own and following the technique of putting the slightly narrower runners in the slots (with washer underneath so they are proud of the machined top) and put playing cards in the INSIDE EDGE (closest to the blade) of both of them so the runners outside edge is pressing against the slot.

This way you get very little slop and you can just run a bead of glue on the runners and place the sled on top - once dry pull it out and it's done.

If you want to get REALLY fancy you can add expanding slots to the runners, in the same manner as fingerboards get locked into a mitre slot with a runner, so that you can deal with any wear over time. Just make sure not to run any glue on that part of the runner so it's free to expand with the embedded screw.

DO NOT lock down to final position the rear fence for the sled until you've done everything else - run the sled through the saw to get the blade slot and ONLY THEN set the rear support fence at 90deg.

A smart man will set the fence only at ONE end with a screw, clamping the other end down firmly and make several passes with the sled using a wide section of ply offcut or mdf using a factory machined edge on the rear fence support - the wider (front to back) the better, as the longer the 2 sides of the cut section are, the more accurately you can dial in the rear support to 90, and you do that by making the cut, then turning the section face over face and seeing if it lines up perfectly, rather than using a square. Keep incrementally tweaking until the support fence and the blade slot are at 90 - mark up the free end where that is on the sled, just in case, then screw it down without moving the clamp (like I did and had to start over).

Sorry if you knew all that - if you didn't Hth.

There are umpteen ways to make a sled and you might want to look at various designs that have T-track embedded in the base for holddowns to keep your fingers out the way, and T-track along the fence for stop blocks, moveable sacrificial fences in front of the main rear fence support, a section of persex front to back over the blade slot to stop debris and add a bit of safety and an added sacrificial block the the rear of the fence to keep the blade embedded and add strength to that section of the fence.

Might as well only make it right once, right?
 

Matted

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cheers rafezetter , Yeah, Ill do that I think. I have some scrap hard wood hanging around that I can use.

Another general question....

Has anyone had any issues getting the blade a true 90° ? I can only get mine to go to about 89.5°... I realise its only .5° but its kinda annoying, and if there's an easy fix Ill take it!

I figured out how to get the blade to pass 45° easily enough (not that Id have any real use for it, but its nice to be able to add an extra 1° it.
 

MikeJhn

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Look back on the thread, one chap had that problem, it turned out to be a bent/broken plate.
 

MikeJhn

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MikeJhn":1hhkfsed said:
EWS":1hhkfsed said:
Hey again Mike

I have found the problem. Det part nr. 52 connecting plate in the manual was broken, i have to order a new part, do you know where to get spare parts?

Until your receive your new part and its fitted, it would be folly to carry out any of the adjustments as they will be fighting each other.

Mike
6820
 

MikeJhn

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EWS":lsj35tr1 said:
Hey Mike

I looks that you know evertthing about the TS250-2, and i have i ?
My fence is tilting about 87 deg. , and i cant find a way to calibrate this, any idea? I did ask axminister, and the pointed out a bolt inside the cabinet when you remove the left side cover, but when i tried to adjust this bolt it bent, and it is illogical that this will straighten up the fence. If this is
the correct way, there must be one of the most complicated ways to straighten a fence? I hope you can help, THX::))
 

Matted

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damnit! thats a pain. I'm wondering its its something I might be able to remove and tweak here. Ill have a look tommorrow.

Thanks for you help with this one!
 

boschboy

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can I ask to were about you got the zero clearance insert for your ts250 thanks very much
 

MikeJhn

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If that was addressed to me, I made it myself, there are details on the first few pages of this thread.
 

Phoenix26

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After reading this thread I was very interested in this saw however it has been "Out of Stock" on Axminsters website for a few weeks now.

Anyone have an insight on if it will be available again? Or is the AC216TS going to be the only Hobby/Craft model they offer?
 

MikeJhn

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Until recently there was an option of the TS200 this no longer appears on the web site and the AC216TS seem to be its replacement, it may be that the TS250 is going through a similar replacement, may just be a case of being patient or alternative give them a call, but according to who you speak too, they may not know of any impending upgrades.
 

Bodgers

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Phoenix26":3sxyz7r9 said:
After reading this thread I was very interested in this saw however it has been "Out of Stock" on Axminsters website for a few weeks now.

Anyone have an insight on if it will be available again? Or is the AC216TS going to be the only Hobby/Craft model they offer?


The TS200 had now officially gone (not even listed as out of stock). And the 216TS has similar specs, so that is its replacement.

My guess is that their won't be a TS250 replacement: The 216TS is now priced slightly above what the TS250 was, so any new TS250 model would take it very close to the cheapest Trade saw, so maybe it has gone for good...
 

MikeJhn

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I think your right Bodgers, Interestingly enough Axminster say on the TS250 description that "Sorry, this item is no longer available" , but on other saws that are out of stock they say "Back Order" I do think a replacement for the TS250 is still on the cards, the pricing of the TS250 with the sliding table and stand etc made it more expensive than the closest trade machine at the time, (AT10) but I do note that the AT10 & AT12 trade machines are not longer listed, also I picked up the latest catalogue and the TS250 is not listed and the closest to it is the AT254SB which is £350 more expensive, so lots of room for a replacement TS250 in between the two. IMO
 

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