attaching maple veneer to mdf

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Hello everyone i wonder if you could help me please.

I have made an arcade machine out of MDF about 18mm thick. I have some maple veneer sheets which i want to cover it with, i was wondering if any one had any tips before i jumped straight in.
1. best glue to use and how to apply?
2.how to do the edges?
3. best product to finish it with.
many thanks
Ben White
 
Whats the overall size :?: Let us know this then we can advise on the best methods.

The biggest problem will be pressing the veneer flat onto the surfaces if it is already assembled, it is normal to veneer each sheet before assembly on BOTH sides.

You can use standard PVA or Titebond alphatic resin.

If you want to keep the maple as light as possible then a waterbased acrylic is the best finish

Jason
 
Hello Ben,

fatskater":2taf77b2 said:
Hello everyone i wonder if you could help me please.

I have made an arcade machine out of MDF about 18mm thick. I have some maple veneer sheets which i want to cover it with, i was wondering if any one had any tips before i jumped straight in.

Can it be disassembled? In all cases it will be easiest if so. A picture would be helpful if not.

How thick is your veneer?

Shooting in the dark as it were, see below...

fatskater":2taf77b2 said:
1. best glue to use and how to apply?

Depends on the disassembly question and the veneer thickness. If it can be taken apart, then I would recommend either Extramite or Resorcinol glue. The latter is nasty stuff. Plenty of ventilation and a suitable vapor mask.

You could then either use cauls to press the laminate down for a few days or invest in a vacuum system. Depending on the size you need, these don't have to be too expensive. You do need to veneer both sides of the substrate.

If it cannot be disassembled, then I would recommend
Evo-stik Industrial
. This is a contact adhesive. you will need one of these too, J-Type Veneer Roller, though I don't like the shape of this one I found.

As Jason wrote, you can also use regular woodworking glues. One problem, though, is the amount of moisture/water in them, especially if you are using thin veneer. These glues can also delaminate over time.

And then there is good old hide glue. A good choice in my opinion. Better than regular woodworking alphatic glues.

fatskater":2taf77b2 said:
2.how to do the edges?

If you can get a reasonable match, you should be able to find maple edge banding that already has a glue activated by heat--an regular houshold iron works fine.

fatskater":2taf77b2 said:
3. best product to finish it with.

Depends on what look you are going for. I would use what Jason suggested. This would provide a clear color and a tough finish for the use. You can always use an analine dye prior to using a water-based acrylic finish if you want the maple a different tone.
 
ok

I have a picture below, its cad not photo if you can imagine its just over 6ft tall
the mdf is 19mm the Arcade machine is in two parts. The bottom is just an open box say about 1 metre square. and the top is a strange shape. imagine an old space invaders machine or pacman etc.

I only want to cover the out side to save on the veneer.

the veneer is 1 mm thin and is off cuts from rolls.

how is the best way to make an edge would i glue it on one side of the box and then use a sharp knife and trim it then do the next side?

could i use this stuff to do the 19mm edge in the same way?

ben
 
fatskater":32yib57y said:
I have a picture but no way of posting it if i can email the pic to someone let me know.

43024407.jpg


No problems.

Adam
 
Hello again Ben,

In looking at the picture, I would suggest priming the mdf and using a high quality acrylic paint like what is used on autos.

It would be difficult at best to veneer something of this size that cannot be disassembled and have it last--if it could be done at all.
 
i could dissasemble if need be i was just being lazy. its only screwed together i just wanted to hide the screws with the veneer as well you see.
Ben
 
Hi Ben,

(can anyone tell I haven't made it out to the shop yet?)

I would purchase a good book on veneering. The one I have is an old copy of Charles Hayward's book Practical Veneering.

There are newer books on the subject but I'm not sure they are any better. I don't know what a used copy of the above book costs, but you may find one.

Anyone else have a book suggestion?
 
At the risk of sounding flippant, it might be worth considering formica for this type of project.

Gill
 
just a quick question, seeing as i have a similar project, whats the best way to apply a veneer to a curved surface?
i'm making a curved end panel for a breakfast bar, so it in essence a half cylinder

cheers, MAtt
 
Matt, either use a veneer press or you could get away with the contact adhesive method, depends on how tight the curve is. If you go for the press then you will need to bend it all over a former like this pic of some corian that I thermo-formed over a mould, the cardboard caul is to stop the heat melting the vac bag.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v156/jaso ... corian.jpg

Fatskater, they are quite large areas, you would have a job getting the veneer flat without a press so the contact adhesive method would be best. As fot the edges I would go for iton on maple edging as its less hastle than trying to glue it on. This is the type of roller MikeW was looking for, better for those bigger areas.

Jason
 
Sorry, without totally hijacking the thread, Jason, how do you rate the bagpress? I've been tempted for a while now...
 
I have not had a lot of use out of it yet, just the top for my chess table , I was very pleased with the results all went down flat as a pancake and it really pulled the corian tight to the former.

It takes about 60-90 secs to empty the bag so a glue with some working time is best, will be trying some curved laminations soon, keep you posted.

Jason
 
does anyone know online where i could get 19mm maple iron on laminate strips.
Also any tips on trying toiron into an internal radius?
Ben
 

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