Argggggh. Timber *!^£$£$ worktops

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flanajb

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It's the third time I have remade the sink worktop with inset sink. First two times was my own fault for not spending enough time sealing it properly. This time around I put 5 coats of Rustins plastic coating on. Looks great, however, the section that sits over the dishwasher has dished by nearly 10mm from centre to edge. When I remade it I took care to ensure the end grain of the boards matched. On reflection going 100mm wide stave was a dumb idea.

Is it a rip out and start again job?
 
Best practice is to stick heat-reflecting insulation underneath when a worktop is above a heat or water vapour source like a dish-washer or washing machine.
 
The heat and steam from the dishwasher is always a problem for worktops. Laminate ones usually delaminate on the edge above the appliance, even if you fit the foil strip that comes with the dishwasher to the underside of the worktop. I fitted home made oak worktops in one of my previous houses and though they looked nice, they were a PITA and i'd never go that route again. Sold the house to a mate and he took them out and replaced with laminate. Wouldn't give me the oak back either. I did them with 70mm x 35mm strips and didn't have the problems you have. Mine was staining issues around the Belfast sink and having to oil them all the time to make them look good which put me off doing them again. My appliances were in a separate utility room, so no problems there.

A lot of commercially bought wooden worktops are made with small staves, so your idea to use smaller pieces may have some merit. I fitted some oak ones for a guy a couple of years ago that he had bought from the internet and they were made of the small staves i mentioned, though that is probably a way of using up small offcuts more than a stability thing. I imagine the stability of small staves is an added bonus.
 
flanajb":2qisf7fn said:
This time around I put 5 coats of Rustins plastic coating on. Looks great, however, the section that sits over the dishwasher has dished by nearly 10mm from centre to edge.

Finished on both sides or just the top? Five coats of Rustins PC would be relatively impermeable.

On my own kitchen I went for Oak worktops from 90mm staves, I figured if it was a disaster I'd know before tiling and could replace with laminate. After nearly five years it looks like I've gotten away with it, there's some very minor splitting on either side of the cooker, but no staining or warping problems by the sink or dishwasher. Finish is Osmo.
 
custard":e76rxgs5 said:
flanajb":e76rxgs5 said:
This time around I put 5 coats of Rustins plastic coating on. Looks great, however, the section that sits over the dishwasher has dished by nearly 10mm from centre to edge.

Finished on both sides or just the top? Five coats of Rustins PC would be relatively impermeable.

On my own kitchen I went for Oak worktops from 90mm staves, I figured if it was a disaster I'd know before tiling and could replace with laminate. After nearly five years it looks like I've gotten away with it, there's some very minor splitting on either side of the cooker, but no staining or warping problems by the sink or dishwasher. Finish is Osmo.

Slight confession. 5 coats top 3 coats on the bottom. There is no foil reflection under the dishwasher, so I suspect that again is my own stupid fault. I have just manged to pull it slightly flat by making up some 4mm steel plates which are screwed across the joint. I know this means the wood cannot expand and contracting without splitting, but I didn't see what other choice I had.

I will purchase some heat reflecting material this week and fix that to the underside.
 
If the top is concave on the upper surface, you could take out the dishwasher, stick an electtic heater in its place, like an oil filled radiator or a fan heater. It might take a couple of days to take effect but you should get it flat again.

I had an oak breakfast bar that developed a 15mm bow which went back dead flat after 3 days.
 
RogerS":3ueav271 said:
Unfortunate timing! Just took a load down to the tip. Very light and so easy/cheap to post to you.
Always the way. Could be worse. You could have thrown it out and then realised you needed it yourself.

RobinBHM":3ueav271 said:
If the top is concave on the upper surface, you could take out the dishwasher, stick an electtic heater in its place, like an oil filled radiator or a fan heater. It might take a couple of days to take effect but you should get it flat again.

I had an oak breakfast bar that developed a 15mm bow which went back dead flat after 3 days.
I might give that a try as the top is concave.
 
Good suggestion from Robin. While the dishwasher is out, you could maybe add some more finish to the oak when it's dried out and put on a good piece of reflecting material. Some of the foil strips supplied by the dishwasher manufacturers is hardly worth the effort.
 
flanajb":33iqeclu said:
I have just manged to pull it slightly flat by making up some 4mm steel plates which are screwed across the joint. I know this means the wood cannot expand and contracting without splitting, but I didn't see what other choice I had.
You can fit metal fixings without restricting movement, the screws just need to ride in short slots. Drill an adjacent hole and file/grind off the web of steel in between.
 
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