Any saw makers out there?

[IWW]

As Tom said, 1095 or its equivalent should be fine, I've used quite a lot of 1095 with no problems. It's not simply the alloy per se that matters, the level to which it's tempered to after hardening is the important factor. If 1095 is in the 48-50 HRC range, it will be pretty much bang-on the desired hardness for sawplate. I've used plate that was measured at 53 and it filed & set with no problems.
Cheers,

 

[thetyreman]

interesting subject, I'm going to try making a frame saw and the info here was useful thanks.

 

[Ttrees]

interesting subject, I'm going to try making a frame saw and the info here was useful thanks.

There's another Luke from Japan who has just started to make a few videos on the subject, haven't got round to watching them yet.
I'll try and get the link from the creek

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...jI0GFkzuPd5XAF

 

[pedder]

Sorry, for being late and sorry I didn't read the whole thread.
If the problem isn't solved yet, shoot me a PM with the numbers you need.
I will go through my stock and see if I have something for you.

That being said; The blades don't look like they wouldn't saw anymore.

Cheers
Pedder

 

[jcassidy]

Just a question for my interest. What do people consider to be the part of a saw that makes it “the original saw”. Bit of a Trigger’s broom question really.
For me I consider the blade to be the working part and would quite happily replace the handle and consider it the same saw. I’m not so sure the other way around.

Whatever bit's been stamped or etched.

I've a couple of old tenon and dovetail saws (pre-1900) with new handle, or new nuts, or new blades, but the same brass back, because that's where the stamps are... so actually I have a couple of new saws with old backs...