Another New Yankee Style Router Table

[The Bear]

Yes I was going to cut holes like that in the Perspex. How did you decide how big to make them or is it a bit of a guess?

I like the idea of being able to close up the pipe to the box to allow more suck to the fence, good idea

Mark

 

[Eric The Viking]

You could just contrive a shutter for the holes in the door - it would have much the same effect.

It's looking really good, by the way.

E.

 

[The Bear]

Would it? Wouldn't I need to cut the air leaving the router box rather than it entering it to increase the suck from the fence?

Extraction is a bit of a dark art to me.

Thanks for the positive comments

Mark

 

[andersonec]

Mark, you could also cut some holes in the back panel of the router chamber instead of the perspex, it will still allow air to flow through, half a dozen 25mm holes across the top would be sufficient I reckon.

I find that when cutting on the edge of a piece of timber the extractor pipe only needs to be attached to the fence, when cutting channels or slots etc. the cutter is covered with your timber and the chippings cannot be extracted through the fence hence the extractor only needs to be attached to the router box, Unless the extractor is to be permanently attached, I simply fit the extractor pipe to whichever suits the job to be carried out.

With the amount of air entering the router box, the extractor will not take out all the shavings, what it will do though is extract the fine dust which is what does the damage to the router bearings, you will have to stick the hose in there every so often and clean it out.

Andy

 

[inkyblue]

Good job Mark, really nice table

 

[Shultzy]

Yes I was going to cut holes like that in the Perspex. How did you decide how big to make them or is it a bit of a guess?

I like the idea of being able to close up the pipe to the box to allow more suck to the fence, good idea

Mark

Mark, I just used a 25mm bit. I cut the three holes as a guess and it worked. You could cut two and see if that works. To be truthful one hole might work, I not sure how to tell if its not working properly.

 

[The Bear]

that'll be the dark art I previously refered to!

Mark

 

[Eric The Viking]

The rate of flow depends on the cross-sectional area of the narrowest part of the pipe.

The main 4" pipe has a CSA of 12.6 sq.in. If you have a 2.5" pipe, that's around 5sq.in. Your 25mm holes are about 0.8sq.in., each.

So, to balance the flow top and bottom, you'll need 6 holes, approx. That'll give you equal suck, but may not be what you want, and your requirements will change depending on the job. So, a couple more holes than that, and a shutter, ought to give you control, like a blast gate.

I'm building a table too, this year, and I intend to take the fence hose into the router box at the bottom, in one corner, with the main extract from t'other bottom corner. That should scavenge the box well, too, but it won't let me balance the suction - I'm hoping it won't be needed.

I'm also going to use Steve Msakery's idea of an extra extract hole in the router plate, for dadoing and grooving.

HTH, E.

 

[The Bear]

Anyone remember this thread? Well I have finally put the finishing touches to it despite thinking I might never get there. So here's what I did to get it finished.

Router plate levelled and screwed on, door finished and fitted, finger pulls routed into the drawer fronts and locking casters on

Router attached though I have since turned it round from when the pic was taken

On the photo of the back you'll see the back cover fitted and the extraction port for the fence extraction screwed on. Only screwed so I can change it if I tinker with the extraction set up

 

[The Bear]

I've tried the fence extraction while using a grooved and it works well

For the under table extraction I've decided to not try and extract from the whole box as I've never seen a set up that works really well. The triton has a plastic shroud around the bit with an extraction port. This is threaded for the triton hose. I've attached a pipe to that and out the back of the main box to catch as much waste near the bit as possible. On the other end on the pipe I've made wooden fitting thT the pipe is a friction fit into. This screws onto the inside side wall lining up with a hole in the carcas that fits my extractor pipe. Which all makes for a nice clean slim arrangement with no external pipes to get knocked

 

[The Bear]

I've tried this for cutters that cut a groove under the work piece and it works quite well. Not perfect but better than trying to extract the whole router enclosure. It will need an occasional Hoover out as well. Ive considered Steve M's idea of drilling a hole in the plate to the left of the cutter but not sure it will improve what I'm doing. I'm going to go like I am at the moment and tinker if I feel the need in future. I have purposely made sure I can change the extraction around by not gluing anything down and having the rear void to try different pipe arrangements

I've also done some safety stuff. A couple of featherboards, and. Guard that can be used with or without the featherboards
And a push stick with a v groove that can apply pressure onto the table and fence at the same time. A small block at the back hooks the end of the work piece

 

[The Bear]

Well that's it!!!! (Apart from the magnetic catch I need to put on the door but let's forget that for a mo.

Hope you enjoyed the build, sorry for the pace.

Mark