Angle dilemma

[Davon]

Hi ,

I have a problem I'm hoping someone can help me with, I need to cut 16pcs as shown in the sketch, I don't want to use a hand saw because I need them to be totally accurate

I have already cut them all to size but now I need to cut a 45deg on a diagonal path, are there any tips anyone can give me to complete
this task ?

Thanks
Davon

 

[xy mosian]

How about some sort of sled to align the cut line parallel to the fence of a Table saw then cant the blade to 45 degrees?
xy

 

[Davon]

Thanks xy,

Now why did I not think of that I think this should work.

Davon

 

[xy mosian]

That looks to be just about what I was thinking. Take care with fencing etc., and try to figure out a way of holding the board being cut tight into the sled. Perhaps a similar board to the yellow one, but without the cut out so that downward pressure can be applied to keep the board in place.
xy

 

[Davon]

You raise good points there xy

I'll get pondering

Thanks again

Davon

 

[Steve Maskery]

At the severe risk of sounding like a smart-alec, it would have been easier to cut them like that in the first place, a compound cut. Yes, I know, wise after the event, I'm not trying to be cocky, honest.
But now that you are here, may I suggest the following?
Make the wedge-board as you have drawn above, but screw it to a base. Then you can put your workpiece into the hollow and use a couple of hold-downs to keep it in place. That way there is no chance of it moving. The hold-downs could be toggle-clamps if you have a couple, or simply blocks of wood screwed down, if you don't. If you make the whole thing quite big, you can attach a couple of handles to keep you hands well away from the nasty bit.
S

 

[xy mosian]

Now if only I could have said it in the way Steve has. =D>
xy

 

[Davon]

At the severe risk of sounding like a smart-alec, it would have been easier to cut them like that in the first place, a compound cut. Yes, I know, wise after the event, I'm not trying to be cocky, honest.

and I, Steve, am grateful for the contribution following the quote, but for people like me, could you humour me with a step by step instruction
as to how this would have been achieved.

Davon

 

[Steve Maskery]

Well after a very undulant walk in Derbyshire, including stops for brandy and port, followed by a (Sadly rather mediocre but with good company) Christmas dinner, the highlight of which was someone doing his first magic gig in about 15 years, I'm not sure what state my brain is in for descriptions on line, but I'll have a go.

First of all I have to make a couple of assumptions and I'm going to assume that you have a trad saw where the blade tilts right, towards the fence. This is a risk as the blade acts as a wedge traspping one part of the wood against the fence. So the first thing to do is to move the fence to the left of the blade and use the right-hand side of it. The other assumption is that it does have a RH side and is not some funny shape.

So now we have the fence on the left and the blade tilted to the right. Nothing can get trapped underneath the blade. Good.

Make the wedgeboard as above, so that the workpiece is presented to the blade at the correct angle. Keep the wedge-board nice and long so that you can fix a tote handle to the end nearest you, so you can push the whole board and still keep control.

Using a push-stick with your right hand and the pushing the wedge-board with your left, the workpiece goes through the blade. The one danger point with this is when the cut is complete but not past the blade, the workpiece is "bouncing" over the blade. But it still can't get trapped.

For a Rolls Royce version, use the technique I've just described, but fix the workpiece down into the jig, screwed to a baseboard as I suggested earlier, that way nothing can move at all, even harmlessly.

I hope that's clear to you, cos nothing is very clear to me right now!
(PS I wasn't driving...)

 

[Steve Maskery]

Here you are. Season of Goodwill and all that.
I'm quite astonished I can remember how to use SU, not touched it for eons.

HTH
Steve

 

[Davon]

Many thanks for all your trouble Mr M

Davon