Ancient Stihl chainsaw

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dickm

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Been researching this some more, and beginning to think my beast may actually have a Bosch unit, as there seem to be trigger modules on the market for the Bosch which look pretty much identical to mine. Unfortunately, the thread on the Arborist site doesn't have a picture of the one he repairs, which is a bit of a pain. All this leaves me at least confused at a higher level! Sagarspezi insist that the 20 Euro unit they sell should work, so do I cross my fingers and buy that, or spend quite a lot more via son-in-law in the USA (he can save me £30 shipping!) to get just the trigger unit?
Or just dive in and try to replace the capacitor in the one I have???
 

Noel

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Been researching this some more, and beginning to think my beast may actually have a Bosch unit, as there seem to be trigger modules on the market for the Bosch which look pretty much identical to mine. Unfortunately, the thread on the Arborist site doesn't have a picture of the one he repairs, which is a bit of a pain. All this leaves me at least confused at a higher level! Sagarspezi insist that the 20 Euro unit they sell should work, so do I cross my fingers and buy that, or spend quite a lot more via son-in-law in the USA (he can save me £30 shipping!) to get just the trigger unit?
Or just dive in and try to replace the capacitor in the one I have???

I’d go for option three at this stage.

I copied this from one the forestry forums a few years ago:



A little stihl 048 ignition combination information

In looking through the ipl's i have found that the
1117-400-1200 flywheel appears to be an early point version
1117-400-1201/1202 appear to be SEM ignition style flywheels
1117-400-1206/1207looks to be the coil which will work with the newer"universal style ignition module

the odd numbered flywheels seem to be the ones being used on W versions aka heated handles.

( the following is speculative information! I do not have any info on flywheels in between other than the fact that some of them have two key way index grooves which I speculate would be interchangeable between point and SEM, or SEM and universal. )

the 048 seems to have been started with a Walbro WS-14 carb and later changed to a WS-15.

will post more and or edit posts as I do find more accurate information.

Alright I know they are obsolete but I do believe I have found the info to post for others that may be having issues or have had one stashed due to issues.

Donut trigger, 1118-400-1000 was replaced with 1118-400-1004 beginning with machine number X11-169-021.
SEM module 1117-400-1300 discontinued at same machine #.[ (the following must be used together) It was replaced by Bosch coil 1117-400-1300 & trigger 1118-400-1004]
1117-400-1202 flywheel hash 2 key was marked "B" and "S" respectively indicating coil to be used with each key way.


At later date
1118-400-1004 replaced and the following combinations are to be used omitting any external module previously mounted factory or dealer repair.

FW 1117-400-1202/ 1117-400-1206 with ign module 0000-400-1300 from machine#7696411 (use B FW key way)

Regarding the flywheels mentioned above. These flywheels (1206 and 1202) only work with the crankshaft installed after the above mentioned serial number! Reason being that the crank shaft taper was changed from 1117-030-1402 old shaft to 1401 new shaft. (Yes backwards numbering don't ask me why)

Heated handle uses FW 1117-400-1207 with ign module0000-400-1300 machine number 15296714 (use B FW Key way)

048 super only had improved Port timing and larger carb same displacement. Jug simply marked with ++ after casting number.
I have not measured the 048 super cylinder that I put on mine and compared it to the plain 048 cylinder I pulled off. I will eventually get to measuring ports and timing on them both and post it up.
 

baldkev

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I have the 880, just like that and I wished it had a kickstart instead of a pull start. I have my chain on the right way round though, it cuts better.
🤣 your right! Thats not so clever!
My brother has the big stihl and he bought the 6 foot bar, it can have another power head attached so both saws power the 1 chain. It's seriously heavy with that bar on, you wouldnt use it all day
 

Devmeister

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Problem is your in England. There are several chain saw/arborist supply houses in Oregon where vintage Stile rules. The pros don’t like the new saws with computer control and emission certification. My big mama is an MS660 with a 24 inch blade. Love that beast even if it’s hard to start ever so often. I used it for general use and for wildfire control. It was great when we all had to fight Camron! A 300,000 acre nightmare! See Devmeister Super Precision on YouTube. Damn near lost my home and shop. The girlfriend evacuated and put the chickens in a dog cage. They evacuated her to a local Hilton hotel. You should have seen the reaction! The business travellers were not ready for chickens!:)
 

JAW911

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It maybe worth searching for an original working model of your saw for sale on the usual sites , this could be used as a donor for other parts you may need . I personally only use stihl equipment chainsaws blowers and strimmers etc as the back up service from stihl is pretty good . However as a word of warning make sure your supplier registers your product with stihl as they won’t accept it from the buyer and therefore you can lose your warranty . A lot of online suppliers will not tell you this so you won’t find out until you make a claim. Also keep your proof of purchase as this is also a requirement for warranty claims. Radmore and Tucker or Sam turner and sons are both excellent to deal with ( hope I’m not breaking any rules naming these companies)
….George Carr in Bristol (Matt)
 

TomGW

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I can also recommend the suggested 20” 62cc Hyundai, widely available for £125. I had been borrowing my brother’s Stihl for the occasional use but decided to buy my own saw when I had a few larger jobs to do. Very pleased with it.
 

dickm

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I’d go for option three at this stage.

I copied this from one the forestry forums a few years ago:
Thanks, Noel. Yes. I saw that post a bit back, but at the time it was just gobbledegook. Now I've learned a bit more, I think it makes sense. In the meantime, have found a supplier of the trigger module in the USA for about £20, so S-i-L is probably getting a commission. Problem with option 3 is that the module looks like a total pig to open up without damaging the encapsulated electrickery!
 

dickm

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Well, here is one VERY red-faced, but slightly happier, bunny. Bought a cheapo spark tester and bingo, there seemed to be a perfect spark. Repeated the test with the actual plug, and it sparked too. Why, I have no idea; definitely didn't work when first tested or several times in between. So today, gave it a fix of easy start, pulled several times and it ran until the easy start in the air cleaner exhausted. A few more tries, without much change, then, presumably, it managed to get enough fuel into the carb and away it roared. I wasn't kitted out to do any cutting for real, so no doubt when I get my PPE on tomorrow it will refuse to play.
But have learned quite a bit about part numbers, solid state ignition etc. as a result of this. And reinforced what has been obvious for years, I just don't understand 2-strokes.
To add to Noel's useful extract about flywheels, the important part number is cleverly concealed on the back of the flywheel, so you need to take it off to check.
 

Bingy man

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Well, here is one VERY red-faced, but slightly happier, bunny. Bought a cheapo spark tester and bingo, there seemed to be a perfect spark. Repeated the test with the actual plug, and it sparked too. Why, I have no idea; definitely didn't work when first tested or several times in between. So today, gave it a fix of easy start, pulled several times and it ran until the easy start in the air cleaner exhausted. A few more tries, without much change, then, presumably, it managed to get enough fuel into the carb and away it roared. I wasn't kitted out to do any cutting for real, so no doubt when I get my PPE on tomorrow it will refuse to play.
But have learned quite a bit about part numbers, solid state ignition etc. as a result of this. And reinforced what has been obvious for years, I just don't understand 2-strokes.
To add to Noel's useful extract about flywheels, the important part number is cleverly concealed on the back of the flywheel, so you need to take it off to check.
Often the simplest of fixes , took a large sycamore down today and my stihl saw fired up without any effort after several months of not using it , however my old mcculloch refused point blank to even cough, plug
out and yep no spark ( seen) so will try again when dark .fortunately i only use it for stump and root work . Sounds like you have a carburettor issue especially if you have further issues.🤔🤔
 

Noel

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Well, here is one VERY red-faced, but slightly happier, bunny. Bought a cheapo spark tester and bingo, there seemed to be a perfect spark. Repeated the test with the actual plug, and it sparked too. Why, I have no idea; definitely didn't work when first tested or several times in between. So today, gave it a fix of easy start, pulled several times and it ran until the easy start in the air cleaner exhausted. A few more tries, without much change, then, presumably, it managed to get enough fuel into the carb and away it roared. I wasn't kitted out to do any cutting for real, so no doubt when I get my PPE on tomorrow it will refuse to play.
But have learned quite a bit about part numbers, solid state ignition etc. as a result of this. And reinforced what has been obvious for years, I just don't understand 2-strokes.
To add to Noel's useful extract about flywheels, the important part number is cleverly concealed on the back of the flywheel, so you need to take it off to check.

Good news.
Don’t forget a new NGK plug,
 

dickm

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Thought you might like to see what the beast (and his Hyundai baby brother) were chopping up this afternoon. The Hyundai was just for a branch which the cowboys who worked on our neighbour's trees had left hanging like a Sword of Damocles over our garden and which got dislodged by gales last night. Fortunately we were not out there at the time!
But it did remind me that last time I used the Stihl, I was younger, healthier and fitter.
IMGP5322.JPG
 

mikej460

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Well, here is one VERY red-faced, but slightly happier, bunny. Bought a cheapo spark tester and bingo, there seemed to be a perfect spark. Repeated the test with the actual plug, and it sparked too. Why, I have no idea; definitely didn't work when first tested or several times in between. So today, gave it a fix of easy start, pulled several times and it ran until the easy start in the air cleaner exhausted. A few more tries, without much change, then, presumably, it managed to get enough fuel into the carb and away it roared. I wasn't kitted out to do any cutting for real, so no doubt when I get my PPE on tomorrow it will refuse to play.
But have learned quite a bit about part numbers, solid state ignition etc. as a result of this. And reinforced what has been obvious for years, I just don't understand 2-strokes.
To add to Noel's useful extract about flywheels, the important part number is cleverly concealed on the back of the flywheel, so you need to take it off to check.
I assume you're using a fresh petrol mix with the correct mix proportion for your model. I have a newer Stihl and it plays up something rotten if the mix is old. I use this stuff to keep my petrol fresh. Mountfield MS1220 Universal Fuel Stabiliser 250ml | Oils & Additives | Screwfix.com
 

dickm

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Mix was fresh this week! I always try to drain my saws after finishing cutting. This gives fresh fuel each time, but does mean it takes a bit of tugging to get fuel in to the carb. Didn't know about that stabiliser; should be worth a try. Though with the pile of wood that needs cutting, the saws will be in use as often as my muscles will allow!
 

emjaiar

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IMHO it’s well worth using Stihl’s own ready mix fuel if you are an occasional user. Leave it in as long as you want. Not cheap but worth every penny.
 

Gingerbloke

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Well, here is one VERY red-faced, but slightly happier, bunny. Bought a cheapo spark tester and bingo, there seemed to be a perfect spark. Repeated the test with the actual plug, and it sparked too. Why, I have no idea; definitely didn't work when first tested or several times in between. So today, gave it a fix of easy start, pulled several times and it ran until the easy start in the air cleaner exhausted. A few more tries, without much change, then, presumably, it managed to get enough fuel into the carb and away it roared. I wasn't kitted out to do any cutting for real, so no doubt when I get my PPE on tomorrow it will refuse to play.
But have learned quite a bit about part numbers, solid state ignition etc. as a result of this. And reinforced what has been obvious for years, I just don't understand 2-strokes.
To add to Noel's useful extract about flywheels, the important part number is cleverly concealed on the back of the flywheel, so you need to take it off to check.
Have you changed the fuel filter? My sop’s with any temperamental saw. New fuel filter, new plug. If that doesn’t solve the issue move on to other things. One of the first things i was taught when i became an arborist 35 years ago….
 
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