American Black Walnut Box - aborted

[Glynne]

This post is a bit of a mix between design and finishing so apologies in advance.
Some time ago (i.e. years) I bought a chunk of ABW from John Boddy's at Boroughbridge. The wood has been "acclimatising" in a spare bedroom but after the light of my life tripping over it, stubbing toes etc. on innumerable occasions, I decided that discretion was the better valour and I should do something with it.
To cut a long story short I re-sawed it and planed and thicknessed it - albiet it is slightly thinner than I wanted at 14mm.
The wood in question looks like: -

The initial plan was to make a dovetail box (through dovetails given the thickness) with a contrasting timber and the first question is: -
1. What would members suggest as a suitable contrasting timber/s?
(I did pick up an idea from Peter Sefton's Facebook page for oak but in this case, the contrast won't be seen.)

However having seen the grain pattern, I'm now tempted to use the ABW for all the box (well front, back & sides) and mitre the corners with contrasting keys.
2. My initial thought was for blackwood or bog oak keys but depending on the finish, brown oak might be OK?

3. Again any thoughts for a lid? I do have enough ABW to match 2 pieces to give a lid, either solid or panelled.

In terms of finish, I have Danish oiled an off-cut (huge knot at the back before anyone shouts) but it has come out darker than I would like so I'm just trying cellulose and shellac sanding sealers.

Ideally I would like something that colours the wood as little as possible so I would be grateful for any suggestions please as finishes aren't my strong suit.

Thanks for looking.
Glynne

 

[marcros]

I like that thickness for a box of around 300mm long side- seems to feel about right in my opinion.

For your design questions, it depends a bit on what you like. I (personally) would probably go with walnut on all 4 sides and either a light (maple/sycamore) or dark (black by species or dye) key. If you want to be really fancy, you could make a key up from sandwiching a light, dark, and light piece of veneer and inserting that.

Lids- I would either book match a piece and make a fielded panel, ideally if you have enough for a frame I would make one- if not you could groove the side to take it- obviously before gluing together.

Any oil will darken the timber. I prefer it that way. I haven't used cellulose sanding sealer, but a light coloured shellac would impart least colour, or even a spray on lacquer- never bought one but I guess you can get them. Oil gives it a richness and warmth though.

 

[Mar_mite]

This post is a bit of a mix between design and finishing so apologies in advance.
Some time ago (i.e. years) I bought a chunk of ABW from John Boddy's at Boroughbridge. The wood has been "acclimatising" in a spare bedroom but after the light of my life tripping over it, stubbing toes etc. on innumerable occasions, I decided that discretion was the better valour and I should do something with it.
To cut a long story short I re-sawed it and planed and thicknessed it - albiet it is slightly thinner than I wanted at 14mm.
The wood in question looks like: -


The initial plan was to make a dovetail box (through dovetails given the thickness) with a contrasting timber and the first question is: -
1. What would members suggest as a suitable contrasting timber/s?
(I did pick up an idea from Peter Sefton's Facebook page for oak but in this case, the contrast won't be seen.)

However having seen the grain pattern, I'm now tempted to use the ABW for all the box (well front, back & sides) and mitre the corners with contrasting keys.
2. My initial thought was for blackwood or bog oak keys but depending on the finish, brown oak might be OK?

3. Again any thoughts for a lid? I do have enough ABW to match 2 pieces to give a lid, either solid or panelled.

In terms of finish, I have Danish oiled an off-cut (huge knot at the back before anyone shouts) but it has come out darker than I would like so I'm just trying cellulose and shellac sanding sealers.

Ideally I would like something that colours the wood as little as possible so I would be grateful for any suggestions please as finishes aren't my strong suit.

Thanks for looking.
Glynne

 

[Kalimna]

I find that rippled maple is a lovely contrast for black walnut, but my preference would be for some nicely patterned spalted beech. The base colours contrast nicely, and the black webbing almost softens it a little.

Cheers,
Adam

 

[andersonec]

Sorry for responding so late but only just seen this

This one is made from one piece of Black Walnut with Birch ply for the top veneered with Walnut Burr and the keys are five layers of veneer (to your own choice)

Sides are 14 mm thick and after re-sawing your timber open it up like a book and make the grain flow around the box by judicial placement of the sections, try and make the front from the most interesting section.

Maple is my favorite match with Black Walnut.

The finish I use to prevent darkening is spray Acrylic lacquer, do it thinly and de-nib between coats with 400 grit, after 3 or 4 coats apply a coat of wax with a very fine (600 or more grit) and buff off straight away for that soft sheen and velvety smooth feel.

Andy

 

[Glynne]

Thanks all for your comments.
This was one of those projects were I well and truly had the Midas Touch in reverse - if I could get it wrong I did and most of the time I was trying to correct what I had just done wrong.
I'll post a couple of pictures but in the end I just wasn't happy with the box so I broke it up to re-use some of the wood.
Firstly the top, I managed to get my measurements wrong and cut it marginally short - so had to glue on some extra!

The bottom is 2 x 2mm MDF veneered on both sides.

Sides mitred and grooves cut top and bottom for lid and base.

The middle groove (1/8") is where the lid will be separated using a 1.5mm slotting cutter (Wealden's) and marked on the outside using some 3mm tape I found in my Wife's card making supplies.

The box then glued up and clamped in my take of an Andrew Crawford jig.

I managed to cut the lid off very successfully using the slotting cutter - by centering the 1.5mm cutter on the 3m tape, you are only left with ~ 0.75mm on each surface to clean up.
But then - not happy with the mitres, lots of marks on the walnut which I hadn't taken care to protect, dimensions not very attractive....etc.
So I broke up the box to have a play with the wood and my new corner lock jointing bit (Wealden's again).

Taking peoples advice, I dragged out some sycamore (slightly spalted) and put a very basic box together more in terms of having a play than anything serious. I even decided it wasn't worth using any hinges so just opted for a rebated lid. I didn't take any WIP pictures as I was tatting about but then the LOML turned up with a coffee and said "that's nice, who is it for?" This habit of answering without thinking has to stop - as soon as I had said "nobody" then it was immediately commandeered to house my granddaughter's christening presents for this Sunday. So a major exercise in "fudging" started to try and hide some of the flaws. The not very good end product is: -

But at least it is something rather than nothing and "herself" is happy with it so onwards and upwards!

 

[Dangermouse.]

I bet it was all a " cunning plan " to keep 'er indoors happy.

 

[andersonec]

Nice rescue and it found good home, win win I say.

Andy

 

[marcros]

A hard thing to do I think. Be honest and say that you are not happy to continue and aborting.

I agree that it was a good rescue and it has found a home so you don't have to take my word for it.