Am I misunderstanding panelling

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Krippers

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Hi, I'm going to build driveway gates, I'm pretty confident I can build out the panelling using a router to make shiplap (or a facsimile of it). Trouble is I can only seem to find ready made shiplap or feathered boards, and not thin planks. Is it reasonable for me to take 22mm thick treated wood and table saw it in half for the panelling, or plane down the feather edge, or am I missing something. (I'm incredibly new at all of this). If I did saw the 22m in half would that mean it needed treating again ?
 

baldkev

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What are you intending to make the frame out of?

Yes, if you cut a plank in half ( lets say 6x1 to create 6x 1/2" ) you would need to treat it again. Often the treatment doesnt penetrate more than a few mm....
You can get planed tanalised, which is better than the usual gravel board etc, or look into a suitable timber, like douglas fir and make it all from that.
 

Krippers

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For the frame I was just going to use sawn treated 22 x 100 mm and I was considering mortise and tenon joints for it.Keeping costs down :)
 

Jones

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22x100mm would be a very lightweight frame for a wide gate. Also in that thickness a simple half lap joint might be a better choice for outdoor work. You can get feather board for fence panels in most places which is tapered from about 4-16 mm , you can tidy it up with a light sanding but planing might remove all the treated bits. Resawing stock means you need to retreat it as the preservative doesn't penetrate that far in
 

Doug71

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It's all sounding a bit lightweight for drive gates, depends on the size and how you are making them but I would say at least 50x100 for the frame.

Maybe post a drawing of what you are planning.
 

baldkev

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Have a go with the search bar, type in driveway gates and you'll find inspiration and info👍
 

Krippers

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This is the basic thing, I'm more trying to save money and learn a couple of things as well.
Rough gate thing.jpg
 

Jacob

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The diagonal braces need to go the same way - up from the hinge side. Your top ones do nothing much except add weight.
Maybe you need to go and look at a few gates rather than just dreaming one up!
 

Krippers

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The diagonal braces need to go the same way - up from the hinge side. Your top ones do nothing much except add weight.
Maybe you need to go and look at a few gates rather than just dreaming one up!
Yep completely agree, I'll change to that
 

Jones

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This is the basic thing, I'm more trying to save money and learn a couple of things as well. View attachment 128168
The diagonals should be in compression when the gate tries to sag. The bottom ones are correct the top ones need reversing. Jacob beat me to it.
Edit I'm referring to the first drawing the second has an incorrect diagonal detail as well.
 
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Jacob

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The diagonals should be in compression when the gate tries to sag. The bottom ones are correct the top ones need reversing. Jacob beat me to it
Not reversing - they need moving to the sides to join the hinge stile just the same as the bottom ones.
Like two gallows brackets one above the other
 

Spectric

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You need to think of loads and vectors, rather than the union jack style you need to copy the lower braces into the top as Jacob has pointed out.

One way to visualise this is to pick up a heavy item and hold it out at arms length, the weight is trying to move your arm down around the shoulder pivot. If you now had a support between your hand and hip it would be easier for you to support the load, a case of triangulation.
 

MARK.B.

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Are you using existing gate post or new :unsure:, if old are they up to the job,same applies to new , remember that when shut, your gates will have a big area for the wind to push against . Under sizing on your posts will not save you money in the long run and can be a right sod to dig out and replace:eek:.
Good luck with your build(y)and please take a pic or two :)
 
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