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mailee

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I started work on another set of wardrobes yesterday. Again it is in MRMDF with a painted finish. This time it is a straight forward set of 'boxes' with double hanging rails in each side.
I got the plinth assembled and the sides cut out.

I then got the tops and bottoms cut out and all the biscuit slots cut and a coat of sealer on the edges.

Next I made a start on the doors with my trusty shaker cutting setup.

I managed to get all the rails and stiles cut in record time.

and by the end of today I had them ready to assemble.

Just after lunch I had a surprise visit from a customer with a panel he had damaged and wanted it repairing, so I had a break from the wardrobes and did a bit of repairing. I had to add two new slats which were broken and glue a split in the side. The 'new' slats are not a perfect match but the customer is happy if it is close.

All in all, not a bad days work today. :D
 

mahomo59

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Awesome start!

What type are cutters are they for your stiles and rails, and where do you get them? I normally groove all the way around a rail and slip in a loose tongue, but i like your way! looks faster.

keep up the posts.

cheers

Jim
 

mailee

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Thanks Jim. The cutter I am using is a standard slotting cutter with spacers and shims to give the appropriate spacing. they are available from Wealdon as an arbour and 6mm slotting cutters. I can't take credit for this set up as it was Doctor Bob who showed me it on a visit to his workshop. I was so impressed with the speed at which Shaker doors can be turned out on it I just had to build one myself. All the parts for the four doors were made in around 20 mins this afternoon, that included cutting the parts from the sheet so you can see how fast it is using this method.
Stew, I always use Morrells AC primer for my MRMDF. I brush a coat on first and sand well with 320 grit and then give the edges two sprayed coats when I prime the sides. I find this seals quickly and gives a good base for two sprayed on top coats.
 

mahomo59

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Thanks Alan...

I'll get on it! And let you know how i go

Many thanks
 

RogerBoyle

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mailee

Do you add or remove the lower section of MDF on the table to do the tenons
So that you are not constantly adjusting the cutter?????

Roger
 

mailee

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Yes Roger, the MDF is removed to cut the tenons. I use a sled against the fence for this. Cutter remains in the same place so no other settings to be done.
 

RogerBoyle

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Alan thanks for that :mrgreen:
I've just rejigged an old table of mine that was about to be reused as a mobile work base
I can't believe how much quicker this way is
Best bit is I can leave it set up for any future use (hammer) (hammer)

And a BIG thank you to Doctor Bob =D> =D>

Roger
 

doctor Bob

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See, I can be constructive and not just a big nasty meany ...... :lol:

There is a thread about the set up somewhere, probably under one of my old names "Doctor".
 

woodaxed

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I once worked for a kitchen / bedroom designer company a few years ago and they made there doors from 12mm standard mdf and then pva glued and pinned on 6mm mdf to make the rails etc any pin holes were filled with 2pac
and then sanded off they were then hand painted ready to assemble and they charged an eye watering amount for there units
 

RogerBoyle

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doctor Bob":3s9nttri said:
See, I can be constructive and not just a big nasty meany ...... :lol:

There is a thread about the set up somewhere, probably under one of my old names "Doctor".
LOL the offence has been corrected :mrgreen:
 

Oryxdesign

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If you are going to preprint the edges Al try using Zinzer B.I.N. I think you'll be pleased with the results
 

mailee

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I have heard of this before Simon, I might give it a try. Can it be over painted with nitrocellulose AC lacquer?
 
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