Aldi bandsaw - got a dodgy one or are they all poo?

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ewanjp

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Having seen lots of good reviews for the aldi 10" bandsaw online, I purchased one. I've just spent a very frustrating afternoon trying to get it to cut straight - this is my first bandsaw so I assume i'm doing something wrong, as lots of people seem to get good results with them.

The basic problem is that the cut drifts off to one side even when pushing hard against the fence. I've tried adding tension, but that just pulls the frame out of square. Even messed around with the bottom wheel tracking.

One of the problems seems to be that I can't get the roller guides on the top guide far enough forward - they hit part of the alu extrusion.

Here are some photos:











Any suggestions?
 
is a new blade likely to change much? the existing blade seems pretty sharp. What size would you suggest?
 
what kind of blade are using currently? it must be pretty high tension to cause it to distort the frame, I learnt not to go thicker than 3/8" wide on mine, I did try a 1/2" and it was too much for it.
 
just the one in the box.... as i say, i've never had a bandsaw before so i just tensioned it until it didn't move move than about 5mm when i poke it.

I see Peter Millard suggests a 1/2" blade - is that what you tried?
 
The supplied blade in my one was woeful. Changing to a better - tuffsaws - blade made all the difference. It will take a 1/2” blade, but it’s a tight squeeze. I’d stick with 3/8” unless you really need 1/2”. 👍
 
Thanks all - have ordered the tuff saws blade. Will see if that helps, otherwise back to the store with it!
 
I've a similar problem and have been meaning to ask for some guidance on it. Vertically cutting is 90 degrees... but I get the blade wandering when pushing the wood to make the cut. The blade twists to one side so I don't get straight lines. Been very busy elsewhere and not had a need to use. I'll act on the suggested option to get some Tuff sawblades.
 
Toss the blade, the ones supplied with most small "inexpensive" saws are die stamped to get the teeth rather than ground and this distorts the blade set of the teeth and causes the vast majority of band saw drift. Ian at Tuff saws will sort you out with a decent blade to get much better cutting and a lot less drift. The remainder you will get rid of by setting the fence properly. Look up any of the numerous vids on the tube
 
I would suggest watching this video, I found it the best of those available, particularly note where the blade should be positioned, your blade is far to far forward, hence why you can't adjust the side bearings



The Toff saws blade will also help once you get it but setting it up right will probably give you the result you want
 
Just a suggestion. Have you tried ending the fence at the gullet instead of having the blade at the mid point of the fence?

I found this very effective on the bandsaw at college and got a much straighter and easier cut.
 
I bought one recently and got lucky in that the base/frame was straight and the only damage was a nick in the outer edge of the bed (which I smoothed out easily enough). These saws seem ok but do need a check of the setup starting from the bottom. I got a couple of decent blades from Tuffsaws right from the off, then set the blade back a little from the supplied position which was a bit too far forward on the wheels. As I wound up the tension with the saw running there was a sweet spot where there was the least noise and vibration. Unplugging and checking, the blade tansion felt about right.
The bed level is adjustable and I had to adjust mine a bit, ditto the fence alignment (I used a small bit of straight steel and a button magnet on the blade to get this aligned).
Can’t comment on the supplied blade, but with the tuffsaws’ blade its not a bad saw for the price and fine for the hobby use it will get with me.
 
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One of the things that defines a quality bandsaw is the rigidity of the frame because that is what allows a blade to be tensioned and an under tensioned blade will not cut straight. The blade will also have a major part to play, my BS400 was hopeless at cutting straight until I started to use Tuffsaw blades and it changed the machine but it cannot use 1 inch blades like it is supposed to because it will not tension them enough. Tuffsaws also do a thinner section blade which are easier to tension.

But at the end of the day what can you expect for £150, I would get a supertuff premium 3/8 blade from Tuffsaws and work within the machines limitations.
 

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