Advice needed fitting integrated fridge freezer

[Doug71]

Spent nearly all day pulling my hair out trying to fit an integrated fridge freezer (made by Sharp) in to a unit from Moores.

https://www.moores.co.uk/definitive/the ... ensington/

Its a 50/50 fridge freezer, the type where the cabinet doors are fitted to the appliance.

First problem was couldn't really get the appliance high enough, when it's packed tight under shelf above, the doors are a bit gappy in height, both cabinet doors are slightly different heights, would work better if swapped round but predrilled for handles and Moores assured me they are right.

Main problem is if I centre the unit doors side to side they catch on the panel at the hinge side of the unit when opened, they work okay with a 5mm gap at hinge side and 1mm gap at handle side but this obviously looks carp.

Am I missing something? Think the doors are thicker than some at 22mm and stand away from cabinet about 3mm, could this be why? Thought the idea was they should open within themselves, instructions say only 2mm clearance needed down edge?

While I am on what do I fix the pelmet with, corner brackets? It's about 70mm high and 20mm thick, it will sit in front of cabinet under doors at front but under panels at sides. Most seem to have side panels running right down with pelmet cut between but wall units are 900mm high and end panels only 939mm so had to trim them and will mitre pelmet round?

To top it off I have man flu which isn't helping, any advice appreciated.

Thanks, Doug

 

[tomatwark]

Did Moores supply the Fridge Freezer?

If so it should work height wise, that said the only time I have fitted a Howdens Fridge Freezer into one of their units it meant altering the carcase, when I raised it with the staff in the branch, the answer was well this is what you have to do (hammer)

Width wise you sometimes have to set them nearer the closing side, it depends on the make.


It would be easier if we could see some pics.

 

[Distinterior]

Hi Doug,

Can you move the fridge across a couple of mm, further away from the cabinet on the hinge side?
Sometimes, there are different width packers supplied with the fridge that are fitted between the hinge to cabinet fixing point.
This is to allow for different thicknesses of cabinets. From what you have described, you need to move the hinge pivot point further over and this should allow the furniture door to clear your fixed side panel.

Another option that may help, would be to fit some 2mm packers between the outside of the tall cabinet and the inside of the tall panel. This will space the panel further away giving you more clearance for the furniture door to pivot and allow you to centre the door better.

 

[Doug71]

Thanks for the replies.

The fridge freezer was bought elsewhere which I think hasn't helped.

Distinterior, I am thinking that moving the pivot point might be the answer, I will put 2mm packing between the fridge and the cabinet to move it across and see if that helps.

Regarding the second part of my question fitting the pelmet is it okay to use corner brackets, was just really checking that Hafele or someone didn't do a special bracket for this purpose that would look better?

Thanks again guys, Doug

 

[Distinterior]

Can you post a picture of what the shape/profile of the pelmet looks like Doug?

I assume you want the front of the pelmet to line up with the front of the door?
If so, and the pelmet is only 20mm thick, you will have a visible gap when the doors are opened.....
(22mm thick door + 3mm space for the bump stops = 25mm) therefore = 5mm gap

 

[Doug71]

Think the pelmet will depend on where I finish cornice which I am just on with. Cornice is like a 100mm coving with an extra bit at back to screw through and a 20mm rebate in front (sorry can't post pic). All the publicty blurb shows the bottom of coving finishing in line with side panels but set back 5mm from front of doors, it has just been run in line with carcass, looks pants really. Again the pelmet is same, flush with panels but set in from front of doors, as said if it is made flush with doors will be a gap behind. If I make cornice flush with doors it doesn't leave much to fix through and means will look better with pelmet set in at sides. Sorry for long winded post and lack of photos